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How to Avoid Losing Feeders ?

Colin Hipwell

Active Member
Hi Folks ,

I`m in my first year of fishing the Ribble seriousely for Barbel .

As anyone who`s fished it will know , its mostly a hard rocky bed , which can cause plenty of feeders and leads to get snagged and lost

I just wondered if anyone could give some general advice on how to avoid such losses , or how to retrieve snagged gear ect .

Just for info , I always fish a free running rig , to stop fish becoming tethered , and use 12lb main line , 10lb hook link , usually a size 10 hook and hair rigged bait .

Thanks in advance for any useful hints and tips :)
 
Using in-line feeders can help, also strike up quickly before reeling in quickly. If it's a nice steady flow try moulding your feed round a lead, the fox paste leads are ideal for this.
I tie my feeders onto a run ring using lighter breaking strain line so if it does snag up you lose just the feeder. In theory! Doesn't solve your issue of losing feeders but at least you're not leaving hooks and line in the river and you don't lose everything. Again in theory!
 
Colin
As a frequent Wye fisher here's a couple of important tips.

1/ make sure your feeder has enough weight not to roll.

2/ as said before, on the retrieve, lift upwards and wind immediately.

3/ if snagged, try letting out a lot of line, strike up and wind.

4/ when playing fish keep your rod up high and keep the fish moving
 
I have found the Drennan bronze coloured flat backed wire feeders to be easier to retrieve when snagged. I'm guessing its because they bend out of shape under pressure.
 
I use the snag safe lead clips with the 6lb clip and if the feeder becomes snagged I just loose the feeder and still land the fish (most times)
I agree with what Graham said keeping the rod high when playing the fish and retrieving quickly to avoid snagging on the bottom.
Open and feeders will always rise quicker than cage feeders also, but won't bend like wire of coarse.
 
I use the snag safe lead clips with the 6lb clip and if the feeder becomes snagged I just loose the feeder and still land the fish (most times)
.

Who makes them , David . I`ll have a look at them .

Thanks for the advice , chaps . I`m going for a trip tonight , so I`ll let you know how I get on . :)
 
try Guru Grip mesh feeders they come straight to the surface when you reel in and hold well in the flow so wont roll into a snag
 
Well , I went out last night , and didnt lose any feeders :)

I used the striking upwards technique on the retrieve , and it definitely seemed to help - although , I was fishing a new peg , so it`s possible it simply wasnt as snaggy as previous swims , I suppose - but I`m sure the method helped !

I`ll give the weak links a try aswell .

Thanks again for the help :)
 
snags

colin its the name of the game on the ribble plastercine round your leads help but with feeders its luck on some swims but the advice you have been given will help,and cheaper option is make your own ,or shoplifting!:D
 
colin its the name of the game on the ribble plastercine round your leads help but with feeders its luck on some swims but the advice you have been given will help,and cheaper option is make your own ,or shoplifting!:D

Thanks , Mark

Ive not lost any gear on my last 2 trips - so I think the advice is working :)
 
I did a few tests in my garrage - just to make sure my line breaking strains were accurate . I`ve been using 12lb Diawa Sensor mainline and 10lb Korum Barbel line hooklink .

One thing I noticed was that my knots wern`t always as reliable as they should be . I found , under tension , the knot on my mainline was the weakest point :eek: Using 4 turn grinner knot by the way .

Now Ive corrected this - the last couple of snag-ups I`ve had , I`ve pulled for a break , and just lost the hooklink
 
I don't rate the grinner for strength, palomar I've found the best or the trilene, though both of these require passing the line through the eye twice which is difficult with small hooks.
 
I don't rate the grinner for strength, palomar I've found the best or the trilene, though both of these require passing the line through the eye twice which is difficult with small hooks.

Thanks , Rhys - I`ll try that . :)

Incidentally , Its either end of the swivel that I`ve been using the grinner - I just use a knotless knott and hair rig for the hook .
 
Sometimes helps to have a weaker knot on the hook link so you've more chance of breaking just that in snags.
Actual breaking strains are all over the place which doesn't help, 10lb shimano cattana supposedly breaks at 14lb!
 
I use the snag safe lead clips with the 6lb clip and if the feeder becomes snagged I just loose the feeder and still land the fish (most times)
I agree with what Graham said keeping the rod high when playing the fish and retrieving quickly to avoid snagging on the bottom.
Open and feeders will always rise quicker than cage feeders also, but won't bend like wire of coarse.

Been using these myself this year, and found them superb, plus if I do loose a feeder it doesn't bother me cause I make my own :D
 
Been using these myself this year, and found them superb, plus if I do loose a feeder it doesn't bother me cause I make my own :D

Steve , do you use the small or the large clip ?

I`ve just bought some , myself . I did a few quick tests using a spring balance , and found the small one gives way at around 4lb , and the large one at around 10 .

What`s been your experience , in an actual fishing situation ?
 
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