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Combi rig components

Richard Isaacs said:
One could argue my own rig is semi combi minus a counter weight and additional knots.
I use a coated braid. Have done for years. I love it because it sinks like a brick and lays flat. But more importantly it takes some abuse.
I strip a couple inches round the hook for the softer properties. Gives the bait a flutter. Does it need it?...........no. There’s no difference in my hook up rates from using this material over a buried bait in mono. just my land up rates
I don’t use different materials or have any unnecessary links or knotts or weights.
ive come from using mono links and only changed to resolve one problem.
That change was made when I changed location and went from fishing medium sized northern spate rivers to very small southern slower more snaggy rivers.

there is from my experience no hook up differences at all.
every type of hook link will lay flat if you cast it correctly and use a suitable length for the conditions.
what I did resolve by going coated was I can extract a fish that’s giving me a hard time under a tree root. I also stepped up my main line too for the same reason.

im also fishing some rivers where barbel are regularly multi caught. The water is in parts gin clear and you can see everything. There is a relatively low stock of big fish.
trust me when I say I know what it’s like to work hard for a barbel. I don’t catch many compared to a lot of people. I stand by my belief that the rig is not the edge to getting a take. Getting something infront of her when she’s feeding and hiding your presence on these types of waters. That’s the edge!
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But you are using a combi rig and by using a more modern material you are changing the % to your advantage . . .!
 
Neil Smart said:
But I is abrasion really a thing? Given that a competent angler will continually check the viability of the end rig, I don't see why we have to worry about adding so much extra furniture to our rigs. For me the goal is to present a bait to a fish that acts in a natural manner, i.e. a free offering that unless they snaffle, another fish will.
It's called Angling.
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As with all things (eg abrasion) it 'could' be a thing - for a river that is constantly changing (compared to a lake) where trees fall in, sh*te floats down from upstream etc its more likely to be a thing surely - even if you know every nook and cranny like the back of your hand?. . . . On this basis then surely adapting an element of angling to secure your likelihood of success (irrespective of 'witchcraft/angling') must be a sensible idea . . .basic logic and common sense . .!
 
Chris Belcher said:
As with all things (eg abrasion) it 'could' be a thing - for a river that is constantly changing (compared to a lake) where trees fall in, sh*te floats down from upstream etc its more likely to be a thing surely - even if you know every nook and cranny like the back of your hand?. . . . On this basis then surely adapting an element of angling to secure your likelihood of success (irrespective of 'witchcraft/angling') must be a sensible idea . . .basic logic and common sense . .!
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Agree Chris, it can be a factor, but not so much to be uppermost in how I would present the bait. Mind you we don't fish those rocky Yorkshire rivers, but even on the Wye I haven't had a problem with abrasion. All I want to do is trim down the gear I have on the rig, I am thinking of ditching all the Korum anti tangle kit in favour of what I used to do free running lead, bead, swivel to hooklength, my real anxieties lie with length of hooklength, I fret about that, I generally use no longer than 18 inches, which seems to be the optimum. I also use mono and flour, but find mono as good, if not better for presentation. Where I can I prefer to fish tip down, especially on the WA.
Not knocking any methods, as said its a confidence thing, but interesting to share opinions.
 
Neil Smart said:
Agree Chris, it can be a factor, but not so much to be uppermost in how I would present the bait. Mind you we don't fish those rocky Yorkshire rivers, but even on the Wye I haven't had a problem with abrasion. All I want to do is trim down the gear I have on the rig, I am thinking of ditching all the Korum anti tangle kit in favour of what I used to do free running lead, bead, swivel to hooklength, my real anxieties lie with length of hooklength, I fret about that, I generally use no longer than 18 inches, which seems to be the optimum. I also use mono and flour, but find mono as good, if not better for presentation. Where I can I prefer to fish tip down, especially on the WA.
Not knocking any methods, as said its a confidence thing, but interesting to share opinions.
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Have NEVER fished the Wye - it is on my bucket list and my BAA ticket has a single stretch (probably devoid of anything other than dace) at Stacklands - wherever that is? Off topic but any recommendations for a more prolific day ticket stretch next season . . .? I will be using my xmas tree rig though so will keep that quiet . . .
 
Just a small point maybe but ... we blithely talk about "mono" as though it covers all line that is other than braid or fluoro. This is far from true. "Mono" is the original (slang) generic for Nylon monofilaments, whereas many 'monos' on the market today are actually only Nylon at their core. There are several lines (one of which I've been using for ~15 years) which are described as co-polymers, basically a Nylon core coated in fluorocarbon. This coating is generally added to add weight (s.g.) to the line, increase abrasion resistance, reduce water absorbtion (maybe) ... without decreasing limpness. So it's dangerous to generalize about 'monos' (and braid for that matter, as the more expensive 8-strands tend to have lower abrasion resistance that cheaper old-fashioned 4-strand stuff.)
 
Chris Belcher said:
But you are using a combi rig and by using a more modern material you are changing the % to your advantage . . .!
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Yeah I think your probably a little guilty of reading between the lines.
I changed to coated braid years ago to make the hook link more durable for the types of rivers and swims I’m fishing. I changed from straight mono hook links.
this means I’ve got personal experience of both.
The only advantage I’ve found is in the durability of the hook length. neither seems to put barbel off or struggle to latch on to their lip.
 
Chris, the BAA Wye at stacklands has plenty of barbel, well worth a visit. Or try Hereford waters, tickets form the tackle shops in town.
 
Chris Belcher said:
Have NEVER fished the Wye - it is on my bucket list and my BAA ticket has a single stretch (probably devoid of anything other than dace) at Stacklands - wherever that is? Off topic but any recommendations for a more prolific day ticket stretch next season . . .? I will be using my xmas tree rig though so will keep that quiet . . .
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As said Chis Stacklands BAA, is a nice venue, a bit of a pain to get to, but worth it. It's the Wye so Barbel to be had, it has a varying depth, with some weedy stretches and deeper water. Haven't fished there for a couple of seasons, which I must put right, love the Wye. When you consider the Wye can be fished for 40 quid or 30, a season with concessions, its the best value on the planet.
 
Hi all
Interesting post. I like Richard have complete confidence in a coated braid hooklength (mantis or N Trap soft 12 " max) it might not be the most subtle of presentations but it gets the job done! Ie it's has never let me down, inc. some very big fish. However I am probably guilty of not trying different presentations, although I have previously used uncoated braided hooklength and tried flouro / braid combi rigs, but did not trust the Albright knot, so have for years and years just used coated braided hooklengths, but I think I might try either a very short soft braided hooklength in a solid pva / mesh bag or try a long flouro / soft braid combi link. Some interesting thoughts on rigs esp. how to join flouro to braid, thanks to everyone for their contribution with this post. PS. Has any one tried crimping either nylon or flouro to join swivels / rings or form loops? If so what have you used?
Regards Wayne
 
Wayne Robinson said:
Hi all
Interesting post. I like Richard have complete confidence in a coated braid hooklength (mantis or N Trap soft 12 " max) it might not be the most subtle of presentations but it gets the job done! Ie it's has never let me down, inc. some very big fish. However I am probably guilty of not trying different presentations, although I have previously used uncoated braided hooklength and tried flouro / braid combi rigs, but did not trust the Albright knot, so have for years and years just used coated braided hooklengths, but I think I might try either a very short soft braided hooklength in a solid pva / mesh bag or try a long flouro / soft braid combi link. Some interesting thoughts on rigs esp. how to join flouro to braid, thanks to everyone for their contribution with this post. PS. Has any one tried crimping either nylon or flouro to join swivels / rings or form loops? If so what have you used?
Regards Wayne
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Hi Wayne - Personally would stay away from crimps unless you are using a heavy bs boom section. They also don't work particularly well with flurocarbon as the crushing element can weaken it (in my experience). I have used them on very short (hook section) stiff hinged rigs / chods where a crimp is more accurate and consistent in terms of creating a very short 'bristle' and connection loop from the hook but for booms a teardrop or small rig ring and a decent bloodknot or better still a swivel and palomar are more effective options IMO. With higher bs materials a simple two turn untucked blood knot is actually stronger than you think - again I have Mr Hearn to thank for on that one as he showed me himself decades ago . . .

Re the Albright (or better still the Mahin) I would practice it - its a very strong connection knot (superior to a back to back grinner for braid to mono) and v useful in tying lines of differing diameters etc. I just prefer my combis as they are more flexible and therefore more convenient for chopping and changing (should you fish this way) . . .
 
Ive used crimps with Korda Boom and providing you take your time and follow instructions they are perfectly suitable for booms. Ive used the 25lb boom and never had one slip , some might gasp at the high bs but its never concerned me as i know that its flat on the bottom and no more visible than some of the coated braids ive seen
 
Just quickly tied up a combi rig using the Gemini booms with a braid loop and some putty on the join just to show you the sort of set up you can achieve
20210325_093631.jpg
20210325_093631.jpg
 
Chris Thomson said:
Ive used crimps with Korda Boom and providing you take your time and follow instructions they are perfectly suitable for booms. Ive used the 25lb boom and never had one slip , some might gasp at the high bs but its never concerned me as i know that its flat on the bottom and no more visible than some of the coated braids ive seen
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Korda Boom is the anomaly I agree as the diameter is perfectly suited to the Korda crimp sizes . . .however using Korda crimps with other fluros (where the diameter differs even by a fraction) can cause a weak crimp and therefore a risk!

On your rig photos Chris did you tie the braid direct (single strand with a knot) or use the loop & boom method?
 
So an innocent question : so in the rig above (and rigs that you use Chris) ... is the weakest part of your 'whole fishing system' (all that between actual hook itself and the reel) the mainline? That is, if you should break, with your hook in a fish or a snag up to the bend, where is that break most likely to occur?
 
I find this thread really interesting. The thought that keeps returning is the relative complexity of these rigs , some involving flurocarbon , braid and monofilament lines and lots of knots and bits of ironmongery [ swivels etc] to join it all together . In my mind all this joining of lines , stripping back of coatings etc is just building in points of weakness that don't need to be there . For what its worth my barbel set up is basically mono straight through to the hook , a ledger stop to determine where the ledger is positioned and a snap link on the lead to allow interchanging of leads should conditions require this . In safety terms if I get snagged by the hook or the fish gets in a snag then the line will break at the ledger stop which in obviously an inherent weak spot . If the ledger gets stuck it pressure will open up the snap link [ i only use small ones ] and things will pull free. I fish in big deep waters and small relatively intimate and clear rivers as well . I catch my fair share of barbel , the only thing I have found that definetly spooks fish is taught line coming straight up in the water from the lead , fish bang in to this and it disturbs them , so wherever possible I fish with the rod top very low , sometimes even under water to minimise these line bites .I don't think Barbel are particularly clever fish and if they are present and hungry you will catch them , I don't think they can see rigs on the river bed . I am not trying to knock other peoples approach and if these combi rigs give people confidence then that is very important if not vital when you are fishing
 
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