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braid for mainline

Back at the beginning of this thread I expressed my concerns about using braid as I believe it is not necessary and poses fish welfare problems. Quite rightly people with different opinions disagreed with me and that is as it should be on a forum such as this. Most of these were reasoned replies, many stating they incorporating a mono leader.

But on the same thread we have Mr Daly stating he uses 55lb Power Pro and we have Mr Glossop using braid to try and get fish out of a snag swim where more fish are snagged than landed. Getting them out is really no problem gentlemen; all you have to do is fish 55lb straight through to a 2/0 hook and point the rod directly at the snag and hold on. As soon as the fish is hooked continue to point the rod (a broom handle is cheaper and more effective) at the fish and simply walk backwards.

Enjoy your fishing gentlemen and I hope you never come near a river I fish.
 
Would seem a better idea to put some feed away from the snag and try to coax them out of it...Not with a broom handle though...
 
Chris Hill said:
Back at the beginning of this thread I expressed my concerns about using braid as I believe it is not necessary and poses fish welfare problems. Quite rightly people with different opinions disagreed with me and that is as it should be on a forum such as this. Most of these were reasoned replies, many stating they incorporating a mono leader.

But on the same thread we have Mr Daly stating he uses 55lb Power Pro and we have Mr Glossop using braid to try and get fish out of a snag swim where more fish are snagged than landed. Getting them out is really no problem gentlemen; all you have to do is fish 55lb straight through to a 2/0 hook and point the rod directly at the snag and hold on. As soon as the fish is hooked continue to point the rod (a broom handle is cheaper and more effective) at the fish and simply walk backwards.

Enjoy your fishing gentlemen and I hope you never come near a river I fish.
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What broom handle? Alloy or traditional wood?;)
 
Chris Hill said:
Getting them out is really no problem gentlemen; all you have to do is fish 55lb straight through to a 2/0 hook and point the rod directly at the snag and hold on. As soon as the fish is hooked continue to point the rod (a broom handle is cheaper and more effective) at the fish and simply walk backwards.

Enjoy your fishing gentlemen and I hope you never come near a river I fish.
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When the chairman of the barbel society puts in print that he fishes braid straight through and the weak link in his set up is the hook then why are we surprised when lesser mortals follow his example?

This from his own website

"Lets run through my tackle.

As we are fishing close in an eleven-foot rod is ideal and I use A Free Spirit Tamer with 1.5 lb test curve. This rod is powerful enough to subdue any fish I’m likely to hook and forgiving enough to deal with the short-range battle I’m going to have with the barbel no matter what size it is! It will also get the fish away from the baited area quickly, which is very important to ensure prolonged action.

My standard Rapidex centre pin reel is loaded with 20lb Powerpro, a braid that I use for the majority of my barbel fishing. A strong mono of 12 – 15lb BS. would just as easily suffice if that’s your preference.

I use a backlead with this method to prevent line bites, which if experienced can put the barbel off for anything up to two hours, even more if they feel particularly agitated.

A small Stonze in line weight is threaded on the line after the length of rig tube has been cut off flush with the insert bead, this is followed by two Nash rig stops which keep it in place. A 1.5 ounce weight is attached via a safelink bead and this is followed by a bead and then an Enterprise leger stop. I fish straight through to the hook with the main braid, thus eliminating knots and potential weak spots.

Hook is a Drennan Barbel size 12 and a 2lb mono hair is tied direct to the bend."
 
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Just a thought,if the swim is that difficult to get fish out with everyone losing the majority, is it not worth approaching the controlling club to make an out of bounds/no fishing/fenced off, refuge area.The fact that people fish the swim means they are being fed there. If nobody is allowed to fish the area then they will have to move out to feed.The benefit to your fishery may well be worth it.
 
Here is a question for you chaps................

Have you ever tried too put a piece of 5lbs mono between your hands too snap it, how much effort does it take................. quite a lot i would say, that is if you do not cut yourself doing it first.

In reality it does not matter what poundage line you use on your reels, if you snap up on a fish and the fish is tethered then the chances of the fish being able too break 5lbs line or 55lbs line are probably the same.................. none!

I use 20lbs Powerpro on my reels with a 12lbs hooklink, sometimes a braided hook link, sometimes a mono hooklink and it works for me. I have used braided mainlines for many years now and i have yet too see the "cheesewire" effect or ever seen a picture of it. I am not saying that it has never happened just that i am yet too witness it. That said i have sliced my hands many times while messing about with both mono and braid in the garage testing this and that.

In my opinion both are as bad or as good as each other and no fish tethered will generate enough power to snap the line it is tethered with.
 
Chris Hill said:
Enjoy your fishing gentlemen and I hope you never come near a river I fish.
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Chris
I’ll be down the lower Severn weekend of the 19th 20th. Send me a pm. Ill sow ya mine if you show me yours.

PS never fish a stiff rod when using braid.


Tom
Go back into your garage and try a few shock loading tests to simulate a fish shaking its head on a snag. Use a brick or something like to simulate a Trent snag. To be honest I have never done it myself but I recon your 5lb mono will snap like cotton and any braid with a nick or has had some abrasion will snap sooner. PS wear a glove
Tight lines all
Kev.
 
Adrian Williams said:
When the chairman of the barbel society puts in print that he fishes braid straight through and the weak link in his set up is the hook then why are we surprised when lesser mortals follow his example?

This from his own website

"Lets run through my tackle.

As we are fishing close in an eleven-foot rod is ideal and I use A Free Spirit Tamer with 1.5 lb test curve. This rod is powerful enough to subdue any fish I’m likely to hook and forgiving enough to deal with the short-range battle I’m going to have with the barbel no matter what size it is! It will also get the fish away from the baited area quickly, which is very important to ensure prolonged action.

My standard Rapidex centre pin reel is loaded with 20lb Powerpro, a braid that I use for the majority of my barbel fishing. A strong mono of 12 – 15lb BS. would just as easily suffice if that’s your preference.

I use a backlead with this method to prevent line bites, which if experienced can put the barbel off for anything up to two hours, even more if they feel particularly agitated.

A small Stonze in line weight is threaded on the line after the length of rig tube has been cut off flush with the insert bead, this is followed by two Nash rig stops which keep it in place. A 1.5 ounce weight is attached via a safelink bead and this is followed by a bead and then an Enterprise leger stop. I fish straight through to the hook with the main braid, thus eliminating knots and potential weak spots.

Hook is a Drennan Barbel size 12 and a 2lb mono hair is tied direct to the bend."
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Adrian,

I am truly shocked by your post and I'm sure there are many others on BFW (unlike Wayne and Kevin) who put fish welfare over their desire to catch at all costs who are feeling the same.

If the content of your post is accurate then Steve Pope thinks its OK to use mainline braid straight through to the hook to "eliminate weak spots". Now it is no secret that I do not agree with those who use braid mainline; however I respect their views and opinions. Those who do use braid however are always quick to point out that they sometimes use a mono leader and NEVER use mainline braid as a hook link.

I have also heard stories (which may not be true) that this same person turns a blind eye to putting Barbel in sacks for the purposes of publicity.
I think everybody on BFW who is also a member of the BS should write to the society and express their disgust.
 
I put fish welfare high on my list of priorities.

I am quite happy to fish Braided (powerpro) mainline with a link to a powerpro hooklink. (have a splutter Chris)

No problem at all IMO and in my extensive experience over the past 15 years using it.

On smaller rivers there are quite a few recaptures by oneself. No damage whilst catching or recapturing at later date has been evident.

In fact, I would suggest far more problems are caused by fishing a braided mainline and a short mono/fluro hooklnk which cannot absorb the lunges of a decent fish. Seen a number of fish lost when fishing like this even on a violent take.

Graham
 
Graham, your a competent angler, but do you think its good practice for beginner's to fish with 20lb PP hooklinks? I know what this line is like and cheese wire is what brings to mind its qualities. I have seen it fished this way on the trent and I have said on occasions that its not suitable as a hooklink because of its cheese wire like qualities.
Personally anglers who need to fish a braided hooklink should use at least a coated braid, or combi and as a last resort a out and out hooklink made from braid and certainly not PP or any mainline braid wheresoever. To use mainline braid and especially so 20lb PP in my book is bad practice and some anglers should know better.
Its a forum and thats my opinion.
 
Jon
And of course you are welcome to your opinion.

But I am speaking from my personal actual experience over a large number of years. As per above.

To be honest I probably only ever see one or two fish with damaged mouths a year, on inspection invariably caused by small hooks in place still, tied to too light mono.

As for damaged flanks in any respect caused by line cutting . Can't think of a single one.

It's perfect for hooklinks. Natural bait presentation/allows some movement, allows the bait to sit immediately below the bend without needing a heat seal on the hook.

Combined with pp mainline it turns some touches on smaller rivers into positive pulls.

BTW way I use 15lb powerpro hooklink, is that worse or better in your opinion than 20lb or 30lb or 40lb?

Is 8lb fine dia mono line better or worse than 12lb mono as a hooklink?

Anyway, I am very comfortable with how I fish from all aspects. If it's good/safe enough for a someone who cares for fish like Ray Walton, its good enough for me.

One question Jon.

Have you tried it personally? Or is it just what you have been told/hear
 
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So, can anyone answer waynes original question or is it still up in the air?
 
Hi Steve, the question has been answered despite the invalid points of the majority of posts. Iv since ordered 825yards of power pro slick 8 in 33lb. It is yet to arrive which shouldnt be too long as i got it direct from a Shimano rep.

Cheers
 
This link made interesting reading when i read the same several years ago

The Truth about Braided Lines

At the time it's logic made sense discounting the vested interest of the articles author. I use power pro mainline for all my Barbel/Chub fishing and have yet to see any evidence of it being a problem for that purpose infact there are distinct advantages in the right circumtances and the right venue. I have always used a specific hooklength braid 90% of the time either in coated or combi link style and also never seen any evidence of it causing harm, i have however once seen damaged caused by braided lines being used as a hooklength (G & J you both know him and he stopped using it from then on) and have personally experienced damage caused by small hooks on small rivers where there is no option to let a fish run.

Graham's experience is arguing against the logic I originally read into article, and without scientific evidence one way or another I am now of the opinion that the relative difference between mono/braided mainline/braided hooklength is negligible when under tension and no more likely to cause damage than a small hook or a lightly hooked fish that tears free.

Steve, Wayne's question was answered several times in the first few post's -Power Pro in its original or newer form (some hold different views). Although personally i think the question has lost any credibilty following the subsequent posts even though not related to the original question.

JMO
 
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Richard.

I know that Steve has posted regards his experience of braided line. If it was the original Spiderwire I can quite believe it.

Not only was that stuff stiff as piano wire, it was also likely to fragment to a degree and could possibly have caused a sawing effect. It looked like a fine brillo pad when that happened.


I bought some many years ago, looked at it, used it once, dumped it.

Powerpro has a limpness about it that negates the above problems.


What I find strange is people say its fine as mainline but it causes damage against the skin if used as hooklinks. Presume they are all using 3 ft plus hooklinks then?

By the way, I wouldn't use as main line at all on the rocky bits of the Severn, Wye or Trent, because I know it's abrasion negatives would cause more lost fish than what I use - GT80 or Adrena-line.

Graham
 
Here we go. Your obviously not atrent regular Graham as the vast majority wouldnt tackle the river without a leader of some sort be it tubing or amnesia. So that negates the theory of yours regarding using braid on the trent. Over the past 3 seasons I have had over 100 doubles off this waterway all to braid main line. So I will say I have some experience in this field. I do stand by my opinion using PP as an hooklink as it not being suitable and by you comparing PP and spiderwire which I have used a lot in my past they are all of the same being. Too thin and extremely able to cut fish if it gets behind the scales. I can vaguely remember an in incident brought up be Richard Walker put itshocked me somewhat and my mind discarded it ref a fish being cut. The simple solution is a combi link and teaching new anglers to use PP hooklinks could cause more harm to a fish than say mono.

Fish safety comes first
 
Iv used a combi now for sometime and it even gives the hook ability to move and turn whilst keeping a straight boom with my chosen stiff mono/nylon thats abrasion resistant to the highest quality.
Jon knows his stuff and knows how to catch barbel and the rig he uses is 110% safe
 
So Jon. you have never actually seen any damaged caused by pp as a hooklink? But can quote a single third hand example.


And the odd times I have fished the very prolific Trent, can't remember seeing anyone using tubing etc. However it's a good idea. Because its use is to prevent you being cut off and maybe pining the line down.

The original spiderwire was nothing like powerpro. It was grey and grated when going through the rod rings. Sorry, you are completely wrong there.

As I said, and as one who has constantly promoted the use of snag free links on here, fish care is a priority of mine. We will just have to disagree. I do know many on here that have and continue to use it as a hooklink.

Added. Wayne. Combi links might be fine, Jons rigs might be safe. So?

Graham
 
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