• You need to be a registered member of Barbel Fishing World to post on these forums. Some of the forums are hidden from non-members. Please refer to the instructions on the ‘Register’ page for details of how to join the new incarnation of BFW...

Using a back lead

Hi Simon,
I can honestly say that ive never had one come off and ive been using that method for years..I use the thinnest razor blade i can get and when i cut it theres no visable cut mark..Im still using the same ones i made years ago..
 
John roberts plastic low resistance run ring, then simply use a stanley knife to cut through it at the bottom of the ring this can can then be attached after the cast and it wont come off unless you take it off also the benefit of this is you can change the amount of weight to hold bottom by simply clipping on any lead as you would normally use it.;)

You can by back lead clips ready made too :)

Here's one example:

http://www.johnsonrosstackle.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1213

Save you cutting your fingers with that razor blade ;)
 
Yes i found the solar ones to be very good i cant think who it was who put me onto them, i had tried some off of ebay and everytime i lifted the rod to recast the clip run down and hit the maid lead and flew off i lost loads of backleads:mad: By the way fo clip ons i use the dinsmores flat leads:)
 
I use gemini lead clips (seafishing), attach appropriate weight with garden wire so it can pull off if snagged, used them for years with no problems, for cheap weights I use ball leads, and as many as needed just threaded onto the garden wire and bend the end to hold, trim any excess, simple. In flood conditions I use lead strip, folded over and again held to the clip with the wire(over an ounce only though!)
peter
 
suprised no one has mentioned to just use a chunk of plasticine.
that is all I ever do as it creates a lot less disturbance than a lead.
guaranteed this may not be ideal if you are chucking a fair distance but works perfect for me up to 2-3 rod lengths out.
 
I read somewhere a good tip when using pasticine as a backlead, which I use from time to time. That is to cut an inch in length of a narrow straw, and cut a slit down it's length. Then attach the straw to the mainline over a stop knot/couple of float stops and a bead larger than the diameter of the straw. Lastly wrap the plasticine around the straw to the desired weight. Makes a good flying backlead, which can be easily removed.
 
Last edited:
Hi, i too use a float stop and a small rubber bead acting as a stop for my drilled bullet backlead. The float stop can be moved the required distance, and when you feel a backlead would be a hinderance, just slide the stop to the fishing lead and you are no longer fishing with a backlead as such.

Very simple and quite effective i have found, providing that you are fishing downstream and are able to keep a tight line on the cast, so that the bullet definatley sits upstream of your fishing lead. It is quite easy to cast out and actually have your backlead fishing downstream of your fishing lead without realising. Im unsure of the difference it made to my captures as i rarely witnessed barbel taking my hookbait but it did make me think that i was doing all i could.
 
Drilled bullets are something I have played around with in the past but don’t use them as I have found they have damaged the line on more than one occasion and I don’t like the idea of sleeveing the line to protect it from the bullet, plus they roll around all over the shop!
I tend to use tubing and push a small link swivel an inch or down from the top so I can increase/decrease the weight and remove it when transporting the rods.
If I wanted to use a ''flying'' backlead with no tubing or leader then I would use a link swivel between two Gripper stops as apposed to float stops as these don’t move so easily.
 
Last edited:
A decent lump of modelling clay/plastercine or tungsten putty on a float stop about 4 feet above lead. Comes off when it needs to!
 
Back
Top