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Using a back lead

Richard Parsons

Richard Parsons

Senior Member
Hi All,

Can anyone recommend a stop for back leading, i.e. the apparatus that stops the back lead a set distance from the main lead? I don't really want to go down the tubing route, and I've tried the leger stops which lets the line through (supposedly undamaged).

Any advice gratefully received.....
 
Richard Parsons said:
Hi All,

Can anyone recommend a stop for back leading, i.e. the apparatus that stops the back lead a set distance from the main lead? I don't really want to go down the tubing route, and I've tried the leger stops which lets the line through (supposedly undamaged).

Any advice gratefully received.....
Click to expand...

I wouldn't use one Richard,

The river bed will hold the lead in place with at most only marginal movement, but the problem with what you are asking for is after a fish has been hooked your back lead needs to slide down to your main lead, or it wil be 'flapping about in the wind ' whilst playing the fish, potentially creating a means to catch you on an unseen snag or even something above surface in certain situations.

After casting out, you can slide the lead down the line, and then bounce it along the bottom for quite a long way if you wish, dependant on how far downstream you've cast, once it's on the bottom it is a matter of judgement as to how far it actually is from your main lead, but you will quickly get used to judgeing that, and is never so critical in that respect to be very accurate anyway, i.e if i wanted to be pinned down 6 feet from my lead, and ended up with 5 because i allowed it to slide to far, it wouldn't bother me.
Judgeing it comes easily Richard, so the need for a stop is not neccesary, and could create a hazzard, not worth the aggro in my opinion.

Ian
 
I use a couple of large float stops and rubber bead above that to the flying back-lead. Perfectly safe and adjustable.
 
Maybe i've bought inferior makes, but i can't get the damn thing to fly very far anyway :(
So i stick to my old ways :p

Ian.
 
Have you got them the right way round ? flat end towards the lead to create resistance which pushes it back up the line, if you not chucking it far try a gummy stop to hold it a couple of feet off the lead, sometimes they dont fly back if next to the lead as it deflects the air flow.:D
 
Mark Harrop said:
Have you got them the right way round ? flat end towards the lead to create resistance which pushes it back up the line, if you not chucking it far try a gummy stop to hold it a couple of feet off the lead, sometimes they dont fly back if next to the lead as it deflects the air flow.:D
Click to expand...

I did have them the right way round Mark, but didn't think of the main lead deflecting the air flow, i'll give it a go cheers ;)

Ian.
 
Thanks for the replies, chaps.

Paul - I have to admit that I've never used a float stop....and have no idea what one is :eek:

I used a leger stop last week on the Teme, which I think damaged the line as it snapped and a rather good fish was lost....
 
Richard Parsons said:
Thanks for the replies, chaps.

Paul - I have to admit that I've never used a float stop....and have no idea what one is :eek:

I used a leger stop last week on the Teme, which I think damaged the line as it snapped and a rather good fish was lost....
Click to expand...


Here you go rich

imagesCABR2HSL.jpg


Thread your line throughthe loop at the end of one of the strands, pull off you bead onto the doubled length of line, and continue pulling until the tag end pulls through leaving the float stop bead on your line. Continue pulling up the line and attatch your hooklength, you can then move the float stop bead up and down the line as you wish, it will grip firmly enough to prevent a fairly heavy lead moving it when buffered by a rubber bead.

The photo shows the Drennan make, there are others.

Ian.
 
Rich, Ian, et al,

I use a very similar set-up to Paul, etc...........

A flying backlead which is trapped between 2 float stops (the best being Drennan grippa stops but these have been temporarily discontinued as Drennan's supplier stopped making them) set about 4 feet above the lead and 8 inches apart to allow some line to run before a taking fish feels them.

The reason I trap them between stops is because I have found that if I allow them to slide too far up the line in a strongish flow, the current gets into the dish on the end and pushes them along, eventually they reach a point where the bow in the line will not allow them to move further downstream and they lift up in the water, completely defeating the object. By trapping them it prevents them it keeps them facing the right way.

Ian, they will only fly back up the line if you are making a long cast, an underhand lob wont do anything............
 
A piece of silicone tubing half an inch long. A piece of 3mm dowle half an inch long, one end slightly rounded.
Slide tube up line, and push dowle in to silicone tube. This holds tight enough to keep weight in place but will slide down the line if snaged and wont damage the line.
ATB
Colin
 
richard, remember too that if you are not useing the backleads, leave the floatstops on & space them evenly above your lead/feeder set-up (about 18 inches) to act as debris collectors so as it doesn't come down your line to your rigs. this will work in the summer as well as winter as a lot of **** still finds its way into the river
see the link below
http://barbelfishingworld.yuku.com/topic/9998
 
Ian Grant said:
After casting out, you can slide the lead down the line, and then bounce it along the bottom for quite a long way if you wish, dependant on how far downstream you've cast, once it's on the bottom it is a matter of judgement as to how far it actually is from your main lead, but you will quickly get used to judgeing that, and is never so critical in that respect to be very accurate anyway, i.e if i wanted to be pinned down 6 feet from my lead, and ended up with 5 because i allowed it to slide to far, it wouldn't bother me.
Judgeing it comes easily Richard, so the need for a stop is not neccesary, and could create a hazzard, not worth the aggro in my opinion.

Ian
Click to expand...


That's what I go with, but otherwise for margin swims (or up to a couple of rod-lengths out) I use a single float-stop with a coffin lead above it, lays nice and flat on the riverbed. I don't find flying backleads have enough weight.
 
This may seem like a daft question; how do you keep the back lead out of the water whilst casting? Can I assume the lead is attached, somehow, following the cast? If so, I can see how it will work with a 'flying' back lead, but not with a coffin (for obviously reasons)....
 
Richard,

With a coffin lead stopped about 4 feet up the line, all casting is an underarm swing, feathering as the main lead hits the water. The coffin will slide up the line on casting (just like a "flier") and you can always gently lift the line and work it down closer to the float-stop afterwards if you wish.
Otherwise, for margins, just lowering the lead in and laying the line down as you walk back to the swim.

Best used in non-snaggy swims.

By far the easiest though is to clip on a backlead after casting and let it slide down to your chosen point while holding the mainline tight to your lead.
 
John roberts plastic low resistance run ring, then simply use a stanley knife to cut through it at the bottom of the ring this can can then be attached after the cast and it wont come off unless you take it off also the benefit of this is you can change the amount of weight to hold bottom by simply clipping on any lead as you would normally use it.;)
 
Craig Wood said:
John roberts plastic low resistance run ring, then simply use a stanley knife to cut through it at the bottom of the ring this can can then be attached after the cast and it wont come off unless you take it off also the benefit of this is you can change the amount of weight to hold bottom by simply clipping on any lead as you would normally use it.;)
Click to expand...


I've done that too, Craig. I do find that they come off too easily when playing fish though.
 
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