• You need to be a registered member of Barbel Fishing World to post on these forums. Some of the forums are hidden from non-members. Please refer to the instructions on the ‘Register’ page for details of how to join the new incarnation of BFW...

Let's discuss mainline...

Another vote for Sensor, I don't do a lot of Barbelling , but haven't felt the need to use anything else for legering.
Been using it for my beachcasting for years and never had a problem, cheap as chips as well.
 
Another vote for Sensor, I don't do a lot of Barbelling , but haven't felt the need to use anything else for legering.
Been using it for my beachcasting for years and never had a problem, cheap as chips as well.

I've used the 18lb for piking when braid has not been allowed and it has done the job just fine. It must be one of the best value lines out there.
 
I have followed up on the issue of a USA and European system of labelling Berkley Big Game and there are indeed 2 different spools of 12lb line available for purchase in the UK with the USA version labelled as 0.33mm and European version at 0.279mm.

I will be carefully checking the line diameter prior to any purchases of line in future.
 
No reason to change a line you trust
Although I did convert to Clear a few seasons ago
Screenshot_2021-11-03-20-17-45.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2021-11-03-20-17-45.jpg
    Screenshot_2021-11-03-20-17-45.jpg
    251.7 KB · Views: 143
Terry,

Im no physicist either.

My knot testing is pretty (make that very) basic - 2x 3oz leads with a piece of line tied between them and pull gradually till something breaks ! Repeat a few times. I simply test one knot against another and see which lasts longest. Rudimentary but helpful. I can’t be bothered to resort to ladders and buckets of sand etc etc. I’ve messed about with a fancy line testing machine once and learnt a lot about loop knots that day.

Back in the 90’s our knot of choice for fixed connections (a swivel for example) was a tucked blood. When we used that on the Berkeley lines it failed. A grinner (uni) did much better.

These days I’ve done a lot of saltwater fly fishing for big ugly fish that fight. So if you tie crap knots you don’t land them; its that simple.

I aspire to never lose a fish to a failed knot…….and a broken line isn’t on the agenda either (but is sometimes out of your control eg an unseen snag).

Terry,

Im no physicist either.

My knot testing is pretty (make that very) basic - 2x 3oz leads with a piece of line tied between them and pull gradually till something breaks ! Repeat a few times. I simply test one knot against another and see which lasts longest. Rudimentary but helpful. I can’t be bothered to resort to ladders and buckets of sand etc etc. I’ve messed about with a fancy line testing machine once and learnt a lot about loop knots that day.

Back in the 90’s our knot of choice for fixed connections (a swivel for example) was a tucked blood. When we used that on the Berkeley lines it failed. A grinner (uni) did much better.

These days I’ve done a lot of saltwater fly fishing for big ugly fish that fight. So if you tie crap knots you don’t land them; its that simple.

I aspire to never lose a fish to a failed knot…….and a broken line isn’t on the agenda either (but is sometimes out of your control eg an unseen snag).


You can't stop there Tim... 😫

Please share what knots you use to stop the 'big ugly fish' getting away!
 
Here are a few for starters:

thin nylon or Fluoro leaders - grinner/uni knots for fixed connections, non-slip mono loops for articulated hook Knots. For the latter use less turns as the line gets thicker.

thick nylon/Fluoro - improved homer Rhode to attach hook with a loop. Perfection loop to form fixed loops in line over 40lb bs. Both pretty inefficient (as in percent knot strength) knots - but as the line is thick it doesn’t matter.

Double barrel crimps are good for attaching hooks to thick mono. Don’t use them for loops at the top of the leader - they get stuck in the rings !

joining thick to thin mono /Fluoro - huffnagle (preferably) or improved Albright. There is an awesome new knot called a ‘cobranagle’ That is better than these and less bulky - but I haven’t learned how to tie it yet…..

bimini twist to tie loops in certain leaders (eg milk fish) and gel spun backing (double the braid first). I put a tiny drop of superglue on my braid Biminis. Simple cats paw to connect backing loop to fly line loop. Don’t ask how many turns on a bimini; the jury is still out on that one…….

Fly line replacement (braided) loops - doubled 50lb braided nylon and 3 nail knots back to back then coated with aquasure.

As general rules:
1. I like knots that look ‘right’ when you tie them right. Some (eg the slim beauty) can look correct, but will break at very low strains. So I won’t use that knot. I once borrowed a leader off my fishing mate that had a duff slim beauty tied in it. Never again….

2. Use knot pullers/gloves etc to seat knots properly.

3. Test stuff before you test it on a fish !


Bet you wished you had never asked !
 
I am struggling to find a mainline that I love and am confident in breaking strain, abbrasion resistance, low diameter and concealment. I don't really like to use braided mainline for barbel. I would love to hear what you guys use and trust for your barbel fishing! Cost of the spool doesn't matter for me, mainline is worth an investment.

To name a few that I have used;
Daiwa Sensor Monofil
Guru Pulse
Guru Drag 🥉
Pallatrax Gamma 🥈
Daiwa Hypersensor

Show me a line which commands a 🥇
Hi Anthony

Regardless of answers you receive to what is a very subjective question, please drop low diameter as a requirement for whatever your final choice is, as low diameter and abrasion resistance do not go hand in hand 🧐

For the record I use ESP Syncro XT Loaded 15lb BS which I have found to be faultless, however, I know many do not like the 'Loaded' version from another thread, in favour of the alternative unloaded version (I am not in a position to disagree having never used the unloaded version).

I suspect they fish venues where a longer cast is needed (Severn / Trent) and being a little stiff XT Loaded probably doesn't cast as well, whereby I fish the Hants Avon and Dorset Stour and rarely need more than a underarm lob.
 
Hi Anthony

Regardless of answers you receive to what is a very subjective question, please drop low diameter as a requirement for whatever your final choice is, as low diameter and abrasion resistance do not go hand in hand 🧐

For the record I use ESP Syncro XT Loaded 15lb BS which I have found to be faultless, however, I know many do not like the 'Loaded' version from another thread, in favour of the alternative unloaded version (I am not in a position to disagree having never used the unloaded version).

I suspect they fish venues where a longer cast is needed (Severn / Trent) and being a little stiff XT Loaded probably doesn't cast as well, whereby I fish the Hants Avon and Dorset Stour and rarely need more than a underarm lob.
RE>> I suspect they fish venues where a longer cast is needed<<
NO ! mate you suspect wrong ! IMO !!
some Lines are prone to twist more than others and the loaded ESP is possibly the worst I have ever used !.........but more important it most definitely breaks a couple of Lbs lower than the same size normal version !
this is born out with the tackle box line tests chart and the loaded has broken at times seemingly for no good reason DONT happen with the normal ESP Syncro XT though ever !

lines I have used
Berkley sensor, Connect , Maxima ,Gardner, Korda, Krystonite , Nash, Ultima , Shimano Catana , Technium, Fox, Gold Label Pro

PLUS lots now long gone Platil etc

but honestly 12llb and 15lb ESP Syncro XT is IMHO the best line I can buy today for my Barbel and Carp fishing
 
Bass Pro Excel (green) and Gardner Hydro Tuff are both Bomb proof in 12lb BS on my fixed spool reels.

On my centrepins for the last couple of seasons, Ive been using Drennan Camo XT in 15lb BS and it’s brilliant stuff.
 
I regularly reference this Gerry. Whenever we get a thread like this one I like to see the results for what people are using. As previously said I don’t intend to change unless I have to but it’s always interesting. Re the comments made by Neil (Kirk) about Big Game, I wonder if the problem stuff was the Japanese made version which I’ve had a bad experience with myself? 🤷🏻‍♂️ I always go for the USA made version.
 
I regularly reference this Gerry. Whenever we get a thread like this one I like to see the results for what people are using. As previously said I don’t intend to change unless I have to but it’s always interesting. Re the comments made by Neil (Kirk) about Big Game, I wonder if the problem stuff was the Japanese made version which I’ve had a bad experience with myself? 🤷🏻‍♂️ I always go for the USA made version.
Im sure there are spools of mono line that have been stored incorrectly sometime for years in warehouses or shops shelves or even production faults that can explain why some lines just break well below what they should for no good reason
but to me Barbel fishing that I do on the Mighty River Trent requires a line with VERY good abrasion resistance not a pre stretched line ! as casting 2 to 6 ozs weight is not ever going to be a problem on the distances required
( I use it carp fishing 3.5ozs around 120yards ish no problems) ever
I do however switch to braid and heavy mono leader + weak hook combi when the tidal is properly roaring thru as we all know the less drag on the line the better
normally ESP Sycro XT is my go to line its not silly thick XT stands for extra tough and it is ! it casts and behaves superbly in 12lb or 15lb always totally reliable perfection on a spool :cool:
 
Here are a few for starters:

thin nylon or Fluoro leaders - grinner/uni knots for fixed connections, non-slip mono loops for articulated hook Knots. For the latter use less turns as the line gets thicker.

thick nylon/Fluoro - improved homer Rhode to attach hook with a loop. Perfection loop to form fixed loops in line over 40lb bs. Both pretty inefficient (as in percent knot strength) knots - but as the line is thick it doesn’t matter.

Double barrel crimps are good for attaching hooks to thick mono. Don’t use them for loops at the top of the leader - they get stuck in the rings !

joining thick to thin mono /Fluoro - huffnagle (preferably) or improved Albright. There is an awesome new knot called a ‘cobranagle’ That is better than these and less bulky - but I haven’t learned how to tie it yet…..

bimini twist to tie loops in certain leaders (eg milk fish) and gel spun backing (double the braid first). I put a tiny drop of superglue on my braid Biminis. Simple cats paw to connect backing loop to fly line loop. Don’t ask how many turns on a bimini; the jury is still out on that one…….

Fly line replacement (braided) loops - doubled 50lb braided nylon and 3 nail knots back to back then coated with aquasure.

As general rules:
1. I like knots that look ‘right’ when you tie them right. Some (eg the slim beauty) can look correct, but will break at very low strains. So I won’t use that knot. I once borrowed a leader off my fishing mate that had a duff slim beauty tied in it. Never again….

2. Use knot pullers/gloves etc to seat knots properly.

3. Test stuff before you test it on a fish !


Bet you wished you had never asked !

Well that is a very comprehensive answer!

I think I will be very busy this weekend looking up all those knots.
 
RE>> I suspect they fish venues where a longer cast is needed<<
NO ! mate you suspect wrong ! IMO !!
some Lines are prone to twist more than others and the loaded ESP is possibly the worst I have ever used !.........but more important it most definitely breaks a couple of Lbs lower than the same size normal version !
this is born out with the tackle box line tests chart and the loaded has broken at times seemingly for no good reason DONT happen with the normal ESP Syncro XT though ever !

lines I have used
Berkley sensor, Connect , Maxima ,Gardner, Korda, Krystonite , Nash, Ultima , Shimano Catana , Technium, Fox, Gold Label Pro

PLUS lots now long gone Platil etc

but honestly 12llb and 15lb ESP Syncro XT is IMHO the best line I can buy today for my Barbel and Carp fishing
Each to their own Gerry, I have had no such problems :rolleyes:
 
Im sure there are spools of mono line that have been stored incorrectly sometime for years in warehouses or shops shelves or even production faults that can explain why some lines just break well below what they should for no good reason
but to me Barbel fishing that I do on the Mighty River Trent requires a line with VERY good abrasion resistance not a pre stretched line ! as casting 2 to 6 ozs weight is not ever going to be a problem on the distances required
( I use it carp fishing 3.5ozs around 120yards ish no problems) ever
I do however switch to braid and heavy mono leader + weak hook combi when the tidal is properly roaring thru as we all know the less drag on the line the better
normally ESP Sycro XT is my go to line its not silly thick XT stands for extra tough and it is ! it casts and behaves superbly in 12lb or 15lb always totally reliable perfection on a spool :cool:
I use the same line as my main line for hooklinks. After filling my reels the rest of the spool goes in my bag to make hooklinks. Iv used a few different lines over time and you’d be surprised at the different thicknesses throughout a spool that the line changes. You can noticeably see that some hooklinks you make the line is a lot thicker than others. Or more than likely it’s the other way round where some are thinner than the rest of the line but either way you can tell that the whole spool that you buy isn’t the same thickness all the way through
 
Back
Top