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Let's discuss mainline...
- Thread starter Anthony James
- Start date
Huanzhou Zhu
Senior Member
To put it simple, the reason a knot can reduce the line strength is this: a knot creates curved regions of line, the outer circumference of this region is greater than the inner part. This difference creates stress across the line when put under tension, so reduce the strength of the line.
Joe Winstanley
Senior Member & Supporter
I've used the 18lb for piking when braid has not been allowed and it has done the job just fine. It must be one of the best value lines out there.
I have followed up on the issue of a USA and European system of labelling Berkley Big Game and there are indeed 2 different spools of 12lb line available for purchase in the UK with the USA version labelled as 0.33mm and European version at 0.279mm.
I will be carefully checking the line diameter prior to any purchases of line in future.
I will be carefully checking the line diameter prior to any purchases of line in future.
Dave Brooksbank
Senior Member & Supporter
You can't stop there Tim...
Please share what knots you use to stop the 'big ugly fish' getting away!
Here are a few for starters:
thin nylon or Fluoro leaders - grinner/uni knots for fixed connections, non-slip mono loops for articulated hook Knots. For the latter use less turns as the line gets thicker.
thick nylon/Fluoro - improved homer Rhode to attach hook with a loop. Perfection loop to form fixed loops in line over 40lb bs. Both pretty inefficient (as in percent knot strength) knots - but as the line is thick it doesn’t matter.
Double barrel crimps are good for attaching hooks to thick mono. Don’t use them for loops at the top of the leader - they get stuck in the rings !
joining thick to thin mono /Fluoro - huffnagle (preferably) or improved Albright. There is an awesome new knot called a ‘cobranagle’ That is better than these and less bulky - but I haven’t learned how to tie it yet…..
bimini twist to tie loops in certain leaders (eg milk fish) and gel spun backing (double the braid first). I put a tiny drop of superglue on my braid Biminis. Simple cats paw to connect backing loop to fly line loop. Don’t ask how many turns on a bimini; the jury is still out on that one…….
Fly line replacement (braided) loops - doubled 50lb braided nylon and 3 nail knots back to back then coated with aquasure.
As general rules:
1. I like knots that look ‘right’ when you tie them right. Some (eg the slim beauty) can look correct, but will break at very low strains. So I won’t use that knot. I once borrowed a leader off my fishing mate that had a duff slim beauty tied in it. Never again….
2. Use knot pullers/gloves etc to seat knots properly.
3. Test stuff before you test it on a fish !
Bet you wished you had never asked !
thin nylon or Fluoro leaders - grinner/uni knots for fixed connections, non-slip mono loops for articulated hook Knots. For the latter use less turns as the line gets thicker.
thick nylon/Fluoro - improved homer Rhode to attach hook with a loop. Perfection loop to form fixed loops in line over 40lb bs. Both pretty inefficient (as in percent knot strength) knots - but as the line is thick it doesn’t matter.
Double barrel crimps are good for attaching hooks to thick mono. Don’t use them for loops at the top of the leader - they get stuck in the rings !
joining thick to thin mono /Fluoro - huffnagle (preferably) or improved Albright. There is an awesome new knot called a ‘cobranagle’ That is better than these and less bulky - but I haven’t learned how to tie it yet…..
bimini twist to tie loops in certain leaders (eg milk fish) and gel spun backing (double the braid first). I put a tiny drop of superglue on my braid Biminis. Simple cats paw to connect backing loop to fly line loop. Don’t ask how many turns on a bimini; the jury is still out on that one…….
Fly line replacement (braided) loops - doubled 50lb braided nylon and 3 nail knots back to back then coated with aquasure.
As general rules:
1. I like knots that look ‘right’ when you tie them right. Some (eg the slim beauty) can look correct, but will break at very low strains. So I won’t use that knot. I once borrowed a leader off my fishing mate that had a duff slim beauty tied in it. Never again….
2. Use knot pullers/gloves etc to seat knots properly.
3. Test stuff before you test it on a fish !
Bet you wished you had never asked !
Keith Humphreys
Senior Member & Supporter
Hi AnthonyI am struggling to find a mainline that I love and am confident in breaking strain, abbrasion resistance, low diameter and concealment. I don't really like to use braided mainline for barbel. I would love to hear what you guys use and trust for your barbel fishing! Cost of the spool doesn't matter for me, mainline is worth an investment.
To name a few that I have used;
Daiwa Sensor Monofil
Guru Pulse
Guru Drag
Pallatrax Gamma
Daiwa Hypersensor
Show me a line which commands a
Regardless of answers you receive to what is a very subjective question, please drop low diameter as a requirement for whatever your final choice is, as low diameter and abrasion resistance do not go hand in hand
For the record I use ESP Syncro XT Loaded 15lb BS which I have found to be faultless, however, I know many do not like the 'Loaded' version from another thread, in favour of the alternative unloaded version (I am not in a position to disagree having never used the unloaded version).
I suspect they fish venues where a longer cast is needed (Severn / Trent) and being a little stiff XT Loaded probably doesn't cast as well, whereby I fish the Hants Avon and Dorset Stour and rarely need more than a underarm lob.
Chris Cheshire
Senior Member
I rarely use mono these days, but if I were to - I'd opt for maxima. Used to love it.
Gerry Giles
Senior Member & Supporter
RE>> I suspect they fish venues where a longer cast is needed<<Hi Anthony
Regardless of answers you receive to what is a very subjective question, please drop low diameter as a requirement for whatever your final choice is, as low diameter and abrasion resistance do not go hand in hand
For the record I use ESP Syncro XT Loaded 15lb BS which I have found to be faultless, however, I know many do not like the 'Loaded' version from another thread, in favour of the alternative unloaded version (I am not in a position to disagree having never used the unloaded version).
I suspect they fish venues where a longer cast is needed (Severn / Trent) and being a little stiff XT Loaded probably doesn't cast as well, whereby I fish the Hants Avon and Dorset Stour and rarely need more than a underarm lob.
NO ! mate you suspect wrong ! IMO !!
some Lines are prone to twist more than others and the loaded ESP is possibly the worst I have ever used !.........but more important it most definitely breaks a couple of Lbs lower than the same size normal version !
this is born out with the tackle box line tests chart and the loaded has broken at times seemingly for no good reason DONT happen with the normal ESP Syncro XT though ever !
lines I have used
Berkley sensor, Connect , Maxima ,Gardner, Korda, Krystonite , Nash, Ultima , Shimano Catana , Technium, Fox, Gold Label Pro
PLUS lots now long gone Platil etc
but honestly 12llb and 15lb ESP Syncro XT is IMHO the best line I can buy today for my Barbel and Carp fishing
Neil Blood
Senior Member
Bass Pro Excel (green) and Gardner Hydro Tuff are both Bomb proof in 12lb BS on my fixed spool reels.
On my centrepins for the last couple of seasons, Ive been using Drennan Camo XT in 15lb BS and it’s brilliant stuff.
On my centrepins for the last couple of seasons, Ive been using Drennan Camo XT in 15lb BS and it’s brilliant stuff.
Gerry Giles
Senior Member & Supporter
the latest line tests worth checking your line
Bill Walford
Senior Member & Supporter
I regularly reference this Gerry. Whenever we get a thread like this one I like to see the results for what people are using. As previously said I don’t intend to change unless I have to but it’s always interesting. Re the comments made by Neil (Kirk) about Big Game, I wonder if the problem stuff was the Japanese made version which I’ve had a bad experience with myself?
I always go for the USA made version.
Gerry Giles
Senior Member & Supporter
Im sure there are spools of mono line that have been stored incorrectly sometime for years in warehouses or shops shelves or even production faults that can explain why some lines just break well below what they should for no good reasonI regularly reference this Gerry. Whenever we get a thread like this one I like to see the results for what people are using. As previously said I don’t intend to change unless I have to but it’s always interesting. Re the comments made by Neil (Kirk) about Big Game, I wonder if the problem stuff was the Japanese made version which I’ve had a bad experience with myself?
but to me Barbel fishing that I do on the Mighty River Trent requires a line with VERY good abrasion resistance not a pre stretched line ! as casting 2 to 6 ozs weight is not ever going to be a problem on the distances required
( I use it carp fishing 3.5ozs around 120yards ish no problems) ever
I do however switch to braid and heavy mono leader + weak hook combi when the tidal is properly roaring thru as we all know the less drag on the line the better
normally ESP Sycro XT is my go to line its not silly thick XT stands for extra tough and it is ! it casts and behaves superbly in 12lb or 15lb always totally reliable perfection on a spool
Well that is a very comprehensive answer!
I think I will be very busy this weekend looking up all those knots.
Joe Winstanley
Senior Member & Supporter
I have to say a lot of it passed over my head. I only recognised four of those knots. Much of the rest read like a foreign language, tbh thought Harry tried to sign Huffnagle when he was at Spurs!
Always learning stuff on here!
Michael Weir
Senior Member
No berkley trilene or iron silk. Interestingly only one flourocarbon breaks above stated rating.
Keith Humphreys
Senior Member & Supporter
Each to their own Gerry, I have had no such problems
Jon Young
Senior Member
Used to love the sufix floating line back in the day that got discontinued. Used the 8lb for floater fishing for carp and was the nuts
Jon Young
Senior Member
I use the same line as my main line for hooklinks. After filling my reels the rest of the spool goes in my bag to make hooklinks. Iv used a few different lines over time and you’d be surprised at the different thicknesses throughout a spool that the line changes. You can noticeably see that some hooklinks you make the line is a lot thicker than others. Or more than likely it’s the other way round where some are thinner than the rest of the line but either way you can tell that the whole spool that you buy isn’t the same thickness all the way throughIm sure there are spools of mono line that have been stored incorrectly sometime for years in warehouses or shops shelves or even production faults that can explain why some lines just break well below what they should for no good reason
but to me Barbel fishing that I do on the Mighty River Trent requires a line with VERY good abrasion resistance not a pre stretched line ! as casting 2 to 6 ozs weight is not ever going to be a problem on the distances required
( I use it carp fishing 3.5ozs around 120yards ish no problems) ever
I do however switch to braid and heavy mono leader + weak hook combi when the tidal is properly roaring thru as we all know the less drag on the line the better
normally ESP Sycro XT is my go to line its not silly thick XT stands for extra tough and it is ! it casts and behaves superbly in 12lb or 15lb always totally reliable perfection on a spool