• You need to be a registered member of Barbel Fishing World to post on these forums. Some of the forums are hidden from non-members. Please refer to the instructions on the ‘Register’ page for details of how to join the new incarnation of BFW...

Feeders

the perfect feeder to me is a half moon shaped tunnel feeder with one end closed and the ability to be able to change the tail rubber end to either end
 
Rob Paylor said:
Turbojohnboy11 on ebay does nice feeders, I've had a few off him. Very reasonably priced. Latest ones were 6oz tunnel cage feeders.



Richards look the tits though 👌
Click to expand...
I make this style using the Dave Lumb moulds
They are ok but the retaining ears can get weak and pull open or snap
I can lose a few so they are a decent compromise but not as good as some of the ones out there where the cage and base is integral
 
Paul Richardson said:
I make this style using the Dave Lumb moulds
They are ok but the retaining ears can get weak and pull open or snap
I can lose a few so they are a decent compromise but not as good as some of the ones out there where the cage and base is integral
Click to expand...
I much prefer the cage set in the lead. The case is quite flexible and does not take much force to deform it. By setting it in the lead you add more strength to the feeder. You also don’t get the issue of bringing it in with the cow on its back.
I also think leads should be coated. They last waaaaaaaay longer before they get mashed up on the rocks. I double coat all my leads and there ain’t no way your busting through it.
 
I'd take some 8 pincers off you Richard
Richard Isaacs said:
They still very much have a “home made” look about them
The coating is always slightly thicker in some areas than others and the leads can vary by 5 or so grams and not always come out looking the same as they are manually poured to a fill line and left to set around the cage but they come out plenty good enough for us barbel chuckers. The carp guys would probably turn their noses up at them 😂.
I can do mamooooth ones too. View attachment 15124It would take a special stick to put that out filled with sloppy mix 😁
Click to expand...
I'd take some 8 ounce feeders off you Richard. I'd buy in bulk as well to make it worth your while.
 
Paul Richardson said:
I make this style using the Dave Lumb moulds
They are ok but the retaining ears can get weak and pull open or snap
I can lose a few so they are a decent compromise but not as good as some of the ones out there where the cage and base is integral
Click to expand...
The rivers I fish, if I need 6oz then I'm going fully expecting to lose some tackle 🤣
 
Fisky's feeders (Goole E York's) take some beating. They're fairly bullet proof and I have them at about 6 ounces. On the Trent you occasionally require heavier.
 
Paul Richardson said:
It’s weird
I can go weeks and get everything back
Then in a session lose 4 or 5 ??
Same swims, same chucks - spate rivers I guess??
Click to expand...
Yorkshire Ouse mostly. Loads of wooden piling all over the place and I don't have enough knowledge yet, various positions in the river it would seem!! :rolleyes: 😂



That's usually anywhere from 8 to 14 feet under water when fishing in flood!
 
A major mistake a lot of anglers make on the Trent is to fish with a feeder that is too light. If it won't hold on the deck then it will roll/drag into the nearest snag. I make sure my feeders are nailed down and as a consequence I don't lose many.

Unfortunately, some swims are snag pits and you are bound to lose some. I lose a lot more hooks than feeders due to using a hair rig. That is why my hook length is always a smaller breaking strain than my main line.
 
Dave Payne said:
from my brief time on the TT its been 50/50 mainline break or bent up feeder inc hooklink returned,with leads 100% mainline break Richard
Click to expand...
I’m working on a lead and feeder at the moment that will not allow this to happen. Such a simple thing aswelll.
a bit like a weak link but without the weak. At 6lb of pulling force you lose the lead but you keep everything else and you can push a new lead or feeder straight on. Not a lead clip or anything complicated just a lead or feeder that will detach from its swivel at exactly 6lb of force.
 
Richard Isaacs said:
I much prefer the cage set in the lead. The case is quite flexible and does not take much force to deform it. By setting it in the lead you add more strength to the feeder. You also don’t get the issue of bringing it in with the cow on its back.
I also think leads should be coated. They last waaaaaaaay longer before they get mashed up on the rocks. I double coat all my leads and there ain’t no way your busting through it.
Click to expand...
Interested in your feeders mate,pm me to discuss 👍
 
Richard Isaacs said:
When you guys lose feeders do you lose the lot? Main line break?
Click to expand...

To be honest I don't lose many feeders, but the ones I do lose tend to be more the metal cage type with the cage coming away from the rest of the feeder and just leaving the boom and swivel attached. This is the best outcome really as I can then retrieve all the line and hook length. I do lose a few more hook lengths in flood water, but then this is the point of having a link at a lower b/s than the mainline. Every now and then in the more rock strewn rivers (Trent/Wharfe) I will just get cut off and lose the lot, rare that though, but depressing when it does happen :(

Last year I don't remember losing many feeders at all actually, maybe 2 or 3 which is good and also surprising considering my lack of knowledge on some of the stretches I was fishing!! 😅
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top