Drennan Twistlock

[Guy Leeder]

Can anyone point me in the direction of the thread with the info on the best way to strip, clean and reassemble the Drennan Twistlock lanfing net handle please? Assuming mine is gunked up as it wont lock now...

Struggling to find the lengthy thread with the info!

 

[Chris Jones]

I think there may be others, but this one has some details.

It probably won't be being "gunked up" that's the issue, though it may be the underlying cause. Grit, sand, silt and carbon dust cause the locking faces of the locking widget to wear with use. Once it wears too much it will fail to lock. The other less gradual way it fails to lock is when the internal thread of the widget is stripped by being overtightened.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Hi guy. It’s really simple.
Remove cap and push the collet out the bottom
Unscrew the collet completely then pull the section through the top of the pole
It will feel tight towards its maximum extension but it does go and comes right out.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Mines due a quarterly service so I’ll do a little guide in ten on how I do it. Takes 10 minutes.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Remove rear cap and push the front of the pole through to reveal the collet then unscrew and remove

pull the entire section out of the front. It obviously won’t come out the back due to the pins on the front end.

Get 2 or 3 wet wipes and push them into the front of your pole. Not the back. Then use the removed section to force them right through the pole as if you were putting it back together.

It will come out of the back looking like this. Keep repeating the process till the wipes exit clean.
You then wipe the outside of the internal section and clean the threads the collet goes over. Soak your collet in soapy water and just generally clean things up to rebuild it.

Now I use this stuff on the two sets of threads at the rear. Copper grease. It’s very sticky and extremely corrosion resistant. Stops your threads getting Knackered because that’s the one part that will see your pole fit for the bin. Don’t get it anywhere else but on the threads for the collet and I put it on the cap thread too because my seal broke years ago and this stuff stops water getting in

Like this! Reassemble and it’s good for a few more months. You’ve got to keep on top of these if you want the life out of them.

Hope that helps

 

[Terry Simner]

I've got 4 Drennan Twistlocks (I know, I know ..but at my age it's best to have dedicated pre-sorted rod quivers) so I keep at least one old spare collet at the ready to replace any one that's playing up. I keep the 4 segments of said collet(S) splayed by lightly turning a large screw between the segments to gently push them apart. This has totally sorted the (potential) issue for me. Below is a very old collet that I'd previously roughed up with sandpaper (to no avail) that will be used whenever I need it.

 

[Chris Jones]

I've got 4 Drennan Twistlocks (I know, I know ..but at my age it's best to have dedicated pre-sorted rod quivers) so I keep at least one old spare collet at the ready to replace any one that's playing up. I keep the 4 segments of said collet(S) splayed by lightly turning a large screw between the segments to gently push them apart. This has totally sorted the (potential) issue for me. Below is a very old collet that I'd previously roughed up with sandpaper (to no avail) that will be used whenever I need it.
View attachment 20045
View attachment 20046

Terry, once the locking faces have worn enough, no amount of roughing up or splaying out will help. At that point, you either get a new widget from Drennan or paint the friction faces with thin coats of superglue/hard varnish to build them back up again. I've been using clear (Hard As Nails) nail varnish for years to keep mine going. Just don't overdo it or you won't get the widget back into the outer pole. Under no circumstances put the widget into the pole until the varnish has set solidly. If you do, you are looking at your newest fixed length landing net handle.

 

[Terry Simner]

Terry, once the locking faces have worn enough, no amount of roughing up or splaying out will help. At that point, you either get a new widget from Drennan or paint the friction faces with thin coats of superglue/hard varnish to build them back up again. I've been using clear (Hard As Nails) nail varnish for years to keep mine going. Just don't overdo it or you won't get the widget back into the outer pole. Under no circumstances put the widget into the pole until the varnish has set solidly. If you do, you are looking at your newest fixed length landing net handle.

?? ... no Chris, I know. I said in my message above that roughing up the segments has been "to no avail" in the distant past ...it's a total waste of time. But gently pushing the segments slightly apart and leaving them separated for a few weeks, does work ...every time.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Terry, once the locking faces have worn enough, no amount of roughing up or splaying out will help. At that point, you either get a new widget from Drennan or paint the friction faces with thin coats of superglue/hard varnish to build them back up again. I've been using clear (Hard As Nails) nail varnish for years to keep mine going. Just don't overdo it or you won't get the widget back into the outer pole. Under no circumstances put the widget into the pole until the varnish has set solidly. If you do, you are looking at your newest fixed length landing net handle.

You can reduce the amount of wear significantly Chris If you back the collet off fully before adjusting the length.
Most people just do a 1/4 turn which is enough to adjust the handle but there is still tension on the collet from the tapered pin.
Back it off a full turn or more and you’ll find a collet lasts years and years without the need to touch it.
That collet in my picture will be coming up for a decade old next year I estimate

 

[Darren Roberts]

Drennan have given tackle shops a number of spares so it’s worth asking at your local to see if they have any.

Two fixes I’ve found -

Using brush on superglue on the collet, a light sanding afterwards might be needed.

Add a small float rubber/tail rubber to bevelled area above the thread. This forces the segments to spread further out. This is an ideal solution if you have issues on the bank.

I keep the thread and collet as dry as possible and rarely have issues.

 

[Chris Belcher]

I've got 4 Drennan Twistlocks (I know, I know ..but at my age it's best to have dedicated pre-sorted rod quivers) so I keep at least one old spare collet at the ready to replace any one that's playing up. I keep the 4 segments of said collet(S) splayed by lightly turning a large screw between the segments to gently push them apart. This has totally sorted the (potential) issue for me. Below is a very old collet that I'd previously roughed up with sandpaper (to no avail) that will be used whenever I need it.

You might need a 5th Terry - they've recently released a 1.9 - 3.5 M twistlock (if you havent got one already)

 

[Guy Leeder]

Perfect stuff, thanks all, especially Richard for the detail and walk through!

 

[Bob Watson]

My mate has a new TL and the collet isn't the same as the one in Richards pics, it's a new design and it split after he over-tightened it.

Mine is the same as the pics above, a very slight twist is all that's needed to lock it enough. You get problems when you tighten them too much.

Previously stated in another thread.

 

[Bill Walford]

Terry, once the locking faces have worn enough, no amount of roughing up or splaying out will help. At that point, you either get a new widget from Drennan or paint the friction faces with thin coats of superglue/hard varnish to build them back up again. I've been using clear (Hard As Nails) nail varnish for years to keep mine going. Just don't overdo it or you won't get the widget back into the outer pole. Under no circumstances put the widget into the pole until the varnish has set solidly. If you do, you are looking at your newest fixed length landing net handle.

Drennan have given tackle shops a number of spares so it’s worth asking at your local to see if they have any.

Two fixes I’ve found -

Using brush on superglue on the collet, a light sanding afterwards might be needed.

Add a small float rubber/tail rubber to bevelled area above the thread. This forces the segments to spread further out. This is an ideal solution if you have issues on the bank.

I keep the thread and collet as dry as possible and rarely have issues.

Chris/Darren,
Thanks for the heads up, I’d tried roughing up the widget but never thought of giving a lick of varnish/superglue so this afternoon I took the bull by the horns and gave it a coat of superglue. Just tried it and you blokes know the outcome. Locks up nicely now, the widget will certainly do for emergency cover as a spare as I had already pressed my spare into use. I’ve also dropped Drennan an email asking for a replacement but last time I asked it took an age to come thru’.
Regards
Bill

 

[Keith Humphreys]

I have two twist locks which I have 'nursed through' over the last few years but still can't understand how a company as big as Drennan hasn't sorted this design fault out yet???

 

[Rhys Perry]

Never had an issue with mine, got to be over 5 years old by now.
Not that it sees much bloody action.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

I have two twist locks which I have 'nursed through' over the last few years but still can't understand how a company as big as Drennan hasn't sorted this design fault out yet???

See I don’t agree.
To me it’s not a design fault it’s a design that requires looking after.
I’ve never had to coat one in varnish or hammer nails through one or start sticking rubber tubes in etc simply because I fully understand how it works and it’s obvious where problems might occur.
The collet is plastic….. it needs to be so that it doesn’t wear out the carbon. So you back it right off dead loose before you slide it up and down and it will not wear out to the rate that it would if you slide it about under some tension like everyone does.
It also makes sense that you keep it clean and keep it maintained.
I proved today it’s 5 minutes out of your time.
They are the best poles bar none imo.
Mine isn’t a special Version and it’s the only one I’ve got. I’ve had it nearly 9 years.
It’s used 2-3 times every week for every species all year round since the day I bought it.

Never had a single replacement part or modification since the day I bought it. These poles are just not designed to be used without periodic maintenance and proper use.

 

[Guy Leeder]

Yeah, i don't see them as faulty either. Mine has been fine for abput 4 years of tackling the lower tidal Trent, getting stuck in to mud when i have caught etc.

 

[Bill Walford]

Agree it’s not designed badly and DO need regular cleaning but for us mortals who are fallible and make mistakes there are some useful tips given

 

[Chris Jones]

Do those that believe it's a design fault believe that brake pads and wiper blades are flawed because they don't last forever? Some things have to wear to work properly. If you aren't prepared to look after them, or use them harder/more regularly, they'll wear even more quickly.

In fishing terms, a spigot joint that eventually closes due to wear is not a design fault, it's simply a product of hard use. A telescopic landing net handle that eventually sees the sections pull through each other is not a design fault, it's simply a matter of inevitable wear over time and use.

The Drennan Twistlock works just fine, provided you heed the warnings to not overtighten. If you expect them to last forever with zero maintenance, they probably aren't for you. If you can't resist tightening things as much as you can physically manage, they probably aren't for you.