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Combi rig components

Yes mate , did try it but wasnt for me , im not a fan of coated braids either , dont get the flexibility at the connection as you do with mono / braid
 
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I always fish a combi rig, keeping it simple by just fishing this rig only. Comprises of 20 or 16lb super FC Sniper fluorocarbon to 25lb Gardner trickster. Knot is a 2 turn fig 8 umclosed, pass the braid through the fig 8 and tighten down. 5 turn grinner on the braid around the FC, tighten down and pull together.
 
I fish combis quite a lot
The main length is fluorocarbon not less than 15lb, sometimes I’ve used heavier
As the point is to get it pinned down between the feeder and the hook bait I don’t see any disadvantage in using heavier and have used 20/25lb if I run out of 15
Berkeley Fluoro or Ghost is good for me
An Albright knot is good but I will also use a size 8 swivel to connect the fluoro to the braid hooklink
Either option provides a point to mould a bit of tungsten putty to - again the principle is keeping everything pinned down and theoretically helps the hook prick the fish
I just know it works with a good hook- up ratio
I use a short soft braid hooklink (3-4”) normally Kryston Merlin in 15lb
Hooks are wide gape or curve shank dependant on which bait I’m using
Suggest using a small pva sock to prevent tangles on the cast
I use combis because I did a lot of tank testing on sinking braid and frankly wasn’t impressed with the majority of them
They’re easy to modify lengths of trace especially if you use a swivel. Some will argue it creates 2 additional weak spots but if you’re confident in your knots I’ve rarely had an issue and when I did it was using the wrong knots
Also you use a lot less braid saving money.
 
Paul Richardson said:
I fish combis quite a lot
The main length is fluorocarbon not less than 15lb, sometimes I’ve used heavier
As the point is to get it pinned down between the feeder and the hook bait I don’t see any disadvantage in using heavier and have used 20/25lb if I run out of 15
Berkeley Fluoro or Ghost is good for me
An Albright knot is good but I will also use a size 8 swivel to connect the fluoro to the braid hooklink
Either option provides a point to mould a bit of tungsten putty to - again the principle is keeping everything pinned down and theoretically helps the hook prick the fish
I just know it works with a good hook- up ratio
I use a short soft braid hooklink (3-4”) normally Kryston Merlin in 15lb
Hooks are wide gape or curve shank dependant on which bait I’m using
Suggest using a small pva sock to prevent tangles on the cast
I use combis because I did a lot of tank testing on sinking braid and frankly wasn’t impressed with the majority of them
They’re easy to modify lengths of trace especially if you use a swivel. Some will argue it creates 2 additional weak spots but if you’re confident in your knots I’ve rarely had an issue and when I did it was using the wrong knots
Also you use a lot less braid saving money.
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paul like to know more about your tank tests sounds interesting
 
I fish combis . . .similar set up to Martin Bowler rig but with 'newer' components and a slightly different braided loop hooklink . . .

2-5ft 15-20lb Rigmarole CamH20 Fluro with a long tapered sleeve and figure of 8 loop knot at one end (this means main fluro length can be changed easily on QC clip) and tied to small ESP size 11 swivel at the other protected with a 0.6g ESP Ronnie rig tungsten bead/sleeve - this is better than using putty that can fly off and provides a pivot point at the baited end. The CamH20 is one of the best fluros out there IMHO and I have used it for carp for donkies landing some very big fish with it . . .its really abrasion resistant but also has memory so if you scrunch it up in a ball / kink it but then pull it taught (with very little pressure) it will always regain a perfectly straight shape . . .

Hooklink is 8lb Drennan Gravel braid (was Super Specialist Sinkbraid previously) doubled over to a length of circa 3-4inches and tied with an overhand loop at the hair end. Knotless knot to preferred hook (usually Gardener Target or Talon tips) sometimes with a mag aligner or ESP kicker dependant on hook bait etc. Benefit of this is that hooklinks can be changed quickly with loop to swivel eye (feed in loop through eye, pull hook through loop) and that you can take a multitude of mini braided hooklinks on a rig board (I use the old small fox mini rig boards that used to come with their tackleboxes) with different set ups / lengths / hair lengths / hooksizes etc. rather than storing made up coiled 2-5ft albright tied lengths in a bulky rig bin . . .

You can (if lucky) unpick the loop and change the braided section or most of the time (for speed) I just snip it off (if the hooks blunted / after a fish / change of bait size etc) and loop on a new one which saves the faff of tying rigs on the bank . . .the main fluro section usually lasts several sessions but can also be changed if damaged / swopped out for a coated braid / thicker, longer fluro easily and quickly . . .
 
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Chris Thomson said:
View attachment 14434
These look quite useful
Click to expand...
That is pretty much exactly my combi set up but obvs using a longer length of fluro for the boom (attached to a small swivel) and a longer looped braided section (with either a direct hook or hair with a silicone sleeve - no need for a blow back ring). You cannot crimp most fluros without compromising the loop strength - these Geminis are only 6-7" but if you are confident using short rigs then no reason why you couldn't use them, other than cost.
 
Wayne Pevy said:
So glad i just keep it simple lol
Click to expand...
. . .compared to some Carp rigs this is simple. Benefit over albright tied combi rigs is ease of storage and not having to dispose of the whole rig once the hook is blunted / boom section is damaged. Changing presentations (dependant on the situation on the bank) with this method is super quick and for day sessions a godsend . . .I need glasses to tie rigs these days - this negates all of that when actually fishing . . .Each to their own . . !
 
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