Bearing pins. Replacing the bearings.

[Richard Isaacs]

I've got one of those with rumbling
bearings and would love to get it sorted out for next season
So to that end a couple of questions - there may be more subsequently.
What size Allen key were you using on the ratchet gear end and who supplies the new bearings that you used?
Thanks in advance.

It’s a very very snug 10mm I actually touched the sides of the key with a linisher to make it have a little play so the key can be inserted easier.

In the pictures I show the bearings being measured and their sizes. 6x13x5
It’s a common bearing you’ll find it from alot of suppliers. Chose the ones you want

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Bloody finally

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Out with the old in with the new.

Ok. First impressions ….. totally different!
The bearing noise was never a big deal for me before and it’s vastly improved anyway. We’ve not got a rumble anymore but a swsssssssssshhhhhhhhhh type noise now which is actually quite nice. It sounds like a bearing should sound.

It does need running in. As far as free running is concerned it’s always been really impressive and it still is. I expected to see the new bearings make it even freer running but actually it’s about the same. I think after afew trips out they will get much freer

What is a nice improvement.
that lumpy clunky feeling through the back plate has now gone.
If you wang it round a million miles an hour you can feel the bearing but much more dampened down…. However if you give it a flick with your finger at around 120-200 rpm you can’t feel a single thing.

In use you wont feel or hear a thing I doubt but only time will tell. I’ll update after it’s been run in.

 

[Chris Jones]

I've just done my reel. However, it was largely just a dry run for another much more expensive reel that I'm yet to work out how to get into. With that being the case, I opted for far cheaper bearings than Richard did. I was partly swayed by mutterings about some expensive bearings actually being quite a bit noisier than cheaper alternatives.
One thing I did have an issue with was that I couldn't move the top bearing at all initially. No amount of coaxing and teasing was producing any movement. I resorted to pouring boiled water over the works. That worked a treat though there were no obvious signs of threadlock/superglue.

I've got one of those with rumbling
bearings and would love to get it sorted out for next season
So to that end a couple of questions - there may be more subsequently.
What size Allen key were you using on the ratchet gear end and who supplies the new bearings that you used?
Thanks in advance.

The required Allen key is 10mm. However, the thread appears to be tapered so it gets smaller as it is tightened, hence the gap to allow for some compression. I didn't refit it quite as tight as it was.

These were the cheaper alternative bearings I went for. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274222962121
I could have been even tighter and gone for £2.50 jobs from the same supplier. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285015889456?hash=item425c455630:g:SxcAAOSwD~lkyirW
I went for the former mainly because the data sheet specifically cited low torque, and low noise applications.

I'm sure you won't have any issues with it, but if you do, pass it to our mutual friend in Leeds and I'll give it a whirl for you.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

some expensive bearings actually being quite a bit noisier than cheaper alternatives.

It’s a different type of noise but certainly not louder. Ceramic balls on a stainless race rather than stainless to stainless.
The noise is more pleasant

One thing I did have an issue with was that I couldn't move the top bearing at all initially.

probably because it’s been used a lot more than mine. Dirt or maggot dust or whatever maybe compacted in there. Or maybe your bearings were simply a better fit. Mine were by no means loose but I could tease them out a little at a time.

The required Allen key is 10mm.

It’s a very snug 10mm because as you rightly say it’s a course tapered thread and the nut does contract with tension. I only gave it a little nip and that’s enough.

Hopefully yours improve your reel I definitely can hear and more importantly feel massive improvements in this one.

Hopefully it will get even better once properly run in

 

[Stephen Crowhurst]

Could you not use a bolt and some washers then use a nut to pull the bearing out the seat, then as the old Haynes manual refitting is the reverse of removal. Effectively make a puller. Be safer on the seat.

 

[Neil Smart]

Great stuff this , but how many true 'pins' if any are sold now? And what is the real difference in performance between a bearing and a pin?.
I have a true pin and the mindset it seems these reels are only good for ledgering.
Also, is it really necessary to have a reel spin so freely..for me that has to be a birds nest in the making. I get the reasoning but it must have it's own drawbacks.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Great stuff this , but how many true 'pins' if any are sold now? And what is the real difference in performance between a bearing and a pin?.
I have a true pin and the mindset it seems these reels are only good for ledgering.
Also, is it really necessary to have a reel spin so freely..for me that has to be a birds nest in the making. I get the reasoning but it must have it's own drawbacks.

I don’t use any of my pins for ledgering so I can’t relate as to whether they are too free or not but for float trotting they can’t be too free running.
The freer they run the, slower rivers are able to get them going with smaller floats.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Correction……. Imo it’s not a 10mm hex it’s a 3/8 hex. It’s a better fitting anyway

 

[Chris Jones]

Great stuff this , but how many true 'pins' if any are sold now? And what is the real difference in performance between a bearing and a pin?.
I have a true pin and the mindset it seems these reels are only good for ledgering.
Also, is it really necessary to have a reel spin so freely..for me that has to be a birds nest in the making. I get the reasoning but it must have it's own drawbacks.

I had absolutely no desire to make the reel more free running. It ran well enough as it was. My sole aim in replacing the bearings was to reduce the noise and rumble that was emanating from the originals.

As far as "true pins" are concerned, I've no idea how many are sold. I know that there's at least one model currently available from J.W. Young. However, I have four true and I usually prefer them to bearing reels. I prefer the way they run when I'm actually fishing. The only exception might be at the height of a long hot summer when flow rates on my closest river can be feeble (it wasn't an issue this year).

How long a reel spins when I'm sitting at home in my armchair is a moderately interesting diversion. It has little relevance to the reels I choose to use. It's also worth noting that all I use centrepins for is trotting. I rarely do anything but floatfish these days but haven't yet come to understand why anyone might choose a centrepin for legering or any stillwater floatfishing.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

My sole aim in replacing the bearings was to reduce the noise and rumble that was emanating from the originals.

Has it done as intended?
I have noticed today that the originals produced less “angular rock”
Doesn’t seem to have any impact in use but my new bearings allow the spool to be ever so slightly rocked on the pin by a fraction and the originals didn’t.
I can only put it down to the fact they are dry run bearings.
In motion it runs straight and true so I’ll not worry about it

 

[Joe Winstanley]

I rarely do anything but floatfish these days but haven't yet come to understand why anyone might choose a centrepin for legering or any stillwater floatfishing.

I reckon I'm pretty rubbish at float fishing, of all the fishing disciplines, I reckon its the form I'm worst at, so my views won't add up to much. However, I do like using a pin for waggler fishing at close range on stillwaters. I find it useful being able to make a micro adjustment to the depth by a slight turn of the reel with my thumb.

 

[Chris Jones]

Has it done as intended?

Yes, No more rumble and it's a good deal quieter. It's not true pin quiet, but it's as good as any of my other bearing reels.

I have noticed today that the originals produced less “angular rock”
Doesn’t seem to have any impact in use but my new bearings allow the spool to be ever so slightly rocked on the pin by a fraction and the originals didn’t.
I can only put it down to the fact they are dry run bearings.
In motion it runs straight and true so I’ll not worry about it

That's not something that I took any particular notice of before or after. To that end, I couldn't really say either way. I had no concerns before, I have no concerns after.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Yes, No more rumble and it's a good deal quieter. It's not true pin quiet, but it's as good as any of my other bearing reels.



That's not something that I took any particular notice of before or after. To that end, I couldn't really say either way. I had no concerns before, I have no concerns after

Sounds like you got a result

 

[Chris Jones]

I reckon I'm pretty rubbish at float fishing, of all the fishing disciplines, I reckon its the form I'm worst at, so my views won't add up to much. However, I do like using a pin for waggler fishing at close range on stillwaters. I find it useful being able to make a micro adjustment to the depth by a slight turn of the reel with my thumb.

I'm not knocking anyone's preference. Choosing to use a centrepin often has an aesthetic aspect to it. However, I simply don't see anything but disadvantages in a stillwater environment. As far as I'm concerned, the only reason to use a centrepin on stillwater is because you enjoy using a centrepin. That's fine and dandy. if that's what floats your boat. Each to their own.

 

[Joe Winstanley]

I'm not knocking anyone's preference. Choosing to use a centrepin often has an aesthetic aspect to it. However, I simply don't see anything but disadvantages in a stillwater environment. As far as I'm concerned, the only reason to use a centrepin on stillwater is because you enjoy using a centrepin. That's fine and dandy. if that's what floats your boat. Each to their own.

I wasn't suggesting you were knocking anybodies preference Chris.

I just gave the only example I can think of where a centre pin offers an advantage in a stillwater situation.

 

[Chris Jones]

I wasn't suggesting you were knocking anybodies preference Chris.

I just gave the only example I can think of where a centre pin offers an advantage in a stillwater situation.

OK, but can you not achieve the same with a fixed spool reel? I can think that it might sometimes be a pain with a single handled reel where the handle may "drop" forward in some situations. That might be alleviated by using a double handled (or counterbalanced handle) reel. Alternatively, you could resort to turning the spool itself by hand.

 

[Joe Winstanley]

OK, but can you not achieve the same with a fixed spool reel? I can think that it might sometimes be a pain with a single handled reel where the handle may "drop" forward in some situations. That might be alleviated by using a double handled (or counterbalanced handle) reel. Alternatively, you could resort to turning the spool itself by hand.

I can achieve the same with a FSR, but it means using my left hand to it. For me it's just easier to use my right thumb whilst holding the rod in my right hand.

 

[Daniel Jeffery]

A few posts back I mentioned the bearings on my Adcock Stanton reel. As mentioned, the problem is not how long it spins (being a relatively heavy spool it’ll spin for 3 mins) but the earthquake rumble.

Getting the bearings out of an AS is more difficult than an aerial type reel it seems. Due to the design, once you take the spool retaining nut off, the front bearing is right there. So, the bearings are pressed into the central hub. They may also have some locker added not 100% sure.

I gave the bearings a good soak & flush in isopropyl which removed a satisfying amount of brown gunk and swarf and definitely improved the performance.

After further fettling, I got the bearings out. They’re a more awkward size: 0.187” x 0.500” x 0.196” in old money or 3/16” x 1/2” x 10/51” in old old money.

If I manage to source replacements I’ll update. BTW I’m doing this on my standby Stanton just in case it goes horribly wrong.

 

[Ian Woods]

Regarding the freeness a reel spins, the more freely it spins the better, it can't spin too freely for me.
I do like to use a centrepin reel for still water float or even light leger fishing. Casting....using a centrepin reel I can cast more accurately, get right up to snags/bankings, under overhanging trees etc and I prefer the drag mechanisum by a country mile .