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Twin tip rods

Hi Stuart, Apologies must have missed this one.
On occasions used to buy an extra tip from Harrison if required by the customer. Found this useful when the blank set was tinted - you stand more chance of getting a matching colour to the butt. Having said that, Harrison were always good at matching the colour when purchasing a spare section sometime in the future. Harrison have reduced the number of colours available in the last few years, which is a shame but understandable.

The Torrix 1.25 12' is a lovely blank which is thinner than Torrix 1.5, 1.75 and 2.0lb test. The 1.25 has a fast tip and powerful butt section. It's generally said that the butt section of the 1.25 feels more powerful than the 1.5 due to the construction. (The 1.5 uses the same mandrel as the 1.75, 2.0)

The picture doesn't show it very well, but here are the two alongside. The chestnut brown with the brown whippings is the 1.25, the ultra matt with the grey whippings, the 1.5

View attachment 10279

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Bob
Wow!!!!!
look at them handles.
bob you give me a call if your ever feeling up to a wood work project and I’ll send you a couple of butt sections to perform your magic on. They are just sensational mate they really are. 😎😎
 
Wow!!!!!
look at them handles.
bob you give me a call if your ever feeling up to a wood work project and I’ll send you a couple of butt sections to perform your magic on. They are just sensational mate they really are. 😎😎
Thanks Richard will keep it in mind when the weather is a bit warmer. - have done some work for other rod builders on bits for handles in the past.

Just noticed that the decals on the rods in the picture were of slightly different sizes, being larger on the 1.5 thus not helping the visual size comparison. Usually use smaller decals on slimmer rods and vice versa. Being lazy just used some from old stock and couldn't be bothered to produce any new ones as they were for my personal rods.
Cheers
Bob
 
I actually can see the point of the quiver tip section on lighter (1.25-1.75) barbel rods if your using the rod for non 3ft twitch species in situations where a quiver tips sensitivity might be useful. Hence the reason I had 2 built for my lighter custom 1.5 barbel rod. I like to use it for chubbing and perching with light leads and big baits in winter. The GTX while powerful it’s very soft too and because the quiver tips are very long and specced for and spliced into the blank there is very little noticeable hinge point in the action which I’d say probably goes for most lighter barbel rods with quiver sections. Over 1.75 and we are talking much stiffer more powerful rods designed with heavier water in mind. You’d need a hell of a quiver tip to retain that rod action I’d say especially on something like a 2.25 I don’t think it would be very nice to use.
I actually can see the point of the quiver tip section on lighter (1.25-1.75) barbel rods if your using the rod for non 3ft twitch species in situations where a quiver tips sensitivity might be useful. Hence the reason I had 2 built for my lighter custom 1.5 barbel rod. I like to use it for chubbing and perching with light leads and big baits in winter. The GTX while powerful it’s very soft too and because the quiver tips are very long and specced for and spliced into the blank there is very little noticeable hinge point in the action which I’d say probably goes for most lighter barbel rods with quiver sections. Over 1.75 and we are talking much stiffer more powerful rods designed with heavier water in mind. You’d need a hell of a quiver tip to retain that rod action I’d say especially on something like a 2.25 I don’t think it would be very nice to use.

I use a Daiwa Theory 2.25 with a 2-3oz tip specifically on a couple hit & hold swims I fish - very tight to willows, which have grown as bushes out into the river
I've lost quite a few fish using 'standard' barbel rods as by the time the 3ft twitch bite has registered , the fish are already bolting back under the willow. Not good.
My theory is that a tip gives me a few extra seconds as the bite develops and consequently its one of the few times I strike at a barbel bite and then hang on for dear life, fully locked up as I try and unbalance it and pull it from under it's cover, before it's pricked itself, hit the lead and bolted back into cover.
I might be over thinking it, but it does work and I tend to either miss a bite or get them out and avoid having to pull for a break as everything gets locked up in the willow roots, and I just won't risk it using the Chimeras. I tried touch ledgering but just prefer focusing on a tip??
Agree it's isn't the sweetest playing action but serves a purpose in these swims.
 
I use a Daiwa Theory 2.25 with a 2-3oz tip specifically on a couple hit & hold swims I fish - very tight to willows, which have grown as bushes out into the river
I've lost quite a few fish using 'standard' barbel rods as by the time the 3ft twitch bite has registered , the fish are already bolting back under the willow. Not good.
My theory is that a tip gives me a few extra seconds as the bite develops and consequently its one of the few times I strike at a barbel bite and then hang on for dear life, fully locked up as I try and unbalance it and pull it from under it's cover, before it's pricked itself, hit the lead and bolted back into cover.
I might be over thinking it, but it does work and I tend to either miss a bite or get them out and avoid having to pull for a break as everything gets locked up in the willow roots, and I just won't risk it using the Chimeras. I tried touch ledgering but just prefer focusing on a tip??
Agree it's isn't the sweetest playing action but serves a purpose in these swims.
Nice bit of information there Paul.
makes perfect sense.
 
If you showed some of your guitars Bob the site would go orgasmic 😂
Just a few of quite a few. Made from the plank of wood up - plenty more where they came from.

10294




10295


All fixed necks, hand carved tops and backs.
Not really barbel related.
Cheers
Bob
 
Try Nick Hay on here he had a couple of Korum Neoterics
 
Hi Stuart, Apologies must have missed this one.
On occasions used to buy an extra tip from Harrison if required by the customer. Found this useful when the blank set was tinted - you stand more chance of getting a matching colour to the butt. Having said that, Harrison were always good at matching the colour when purchasing a spare section sometime in the future. Harrison have reduced the number of colours available in the last few years, which is a shame but understandable.

The Torrix 1.25 12' is a lovely blank which is thinner than Torrix 1.5, 1.75 and 2.0lb test. The 1.25 has a fast tip and powerful butt section. It's generally said that the butt section of the 1.25 feels more powerful than the 1.5 due to the construction. (The 1.5 uses the same mandrel as the 1.75, 2.0)

The picture doesn't show it very well, but here are the two alongside. The chestnut brown with the brown whippings is the 1.25, the ultra matt with the grey whippings, the 1.5. Edit - Just noticed that I used different sized graphics on the two rods (larger on the 1.5 test rod) not helping any visual comparison with regard to the diameter.

View attachment 10279

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Bob

Thanks for the reply and info Bob, much appreciated
 
Just a few of quite a few. Made from the plank of wood up - plenty more where they came from.

View attachment 10294



View attachment 10295

All fixed necks, hand carved tops and backs.
Not really barbel related.
Cheers
Bob

Doesn’t matter that it’s not Barbel related Bob, they are works of art to be admired. You are some craftsman 👍
 
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