The search for perfection

[Huanzhou Zhu]

I guess Richard knows this, but epoxy will soften when immersed in very hot water. I've replaced a few fly rod reel seats this way. Separating a spliced tip might not be too difficult.
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Richard didn’t glue his tip as far as I know. And I think you are right, you will need to reapply the epoxy after removing the tip. BTW, I don’t think hot water is hot enough to remove the tip.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Hi Richard, congranulations on achieving your objective. I have a problem which must be common since there are lots of reports of broken rod tips. I have a Silstar diaflex with a broken tip. I’m am using it at its shortened length but would like to restore it to its original 4.2m. Its original carbon tip was about 80cm. I can see I can get longer tips in Europe, I cannot find a supplier of longer tips in the UK. I will also have the issue of removing the existing spliced in tip. Has anyone got any experience of this? Will it be glued in place? If it is how do I handle the glue or do I just have to cut back to the end of the spliced tip?

Since it seems we can no longer get bits from guides and blanks I have been looking elsewhere and seen some parts I’ve not seen before.It seems Fuji have a an attachment for the butt which has variable weights, might be useful for you.

It will be very unlikely and unfortunate if it is glued in
Unlike quiver tips, spliced tips are put in through the back of the rod not pushed into the front so it’s pulled through till the tapers lock up and to glue this in would be messy as it would smear glue through the hollow section and also completely unnecessary.

My gut feeling is if you removed the whipping sealing the joint and give the tip a push backwards it should come out. If it’s tight then cut the tip down to make it more rigid and give it a gentle tap.
some of My tips are 80 and 90 cm long before I cut them down which had to be obtained from Europe also.