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The search for perfection

Richard Isaacs

Senior Member & Supporter
Disclaimer to start!
I’m not responsible should you decide to carry out anything I describe in this post.
All will make sense as you read on.

So last year I bought 2 avenger 2000 rods both in sorry looking states.
I stripped and cut and spliced and built with the help of a well known builder and good friend to achieve something of greatness.
We came out of it with an avenger 2000 13/14ft hollow/spliced tip and I’ve been battering the life out of it since. With the spliced tip section It’s the most fantastic river trotting rod I own in terms of action, weight and capabilities.

This year I’ve done it again but in doing so I’ve taken a huge risk. A bold step and it’s not something i would recommend lightly.
I’m taking about serious modifications to a perfectly in tact, very rare and very expensive rod.

It’s no secret that I absolutely love the original free spirit float rods in 15ft. This year I’ve had some amazing achievements on them in terms of enormous barbel and I’ve gotten to know that blank probably better than most owners or users by simply taking it to the very extreme end of its limits.

but as I stated in my rod review, they have their short comings.
If it was just about catching enormous barbel then no question…. It’s the only rod I’d use but it’s not.

These are a bit of a 1 trick pony really and they fall massively when it comes to lines of less than 6lb and floats less than 6g and fish less than anything with whiskers. The problem is the rods tip.
It’s very stiff and while the rest of the blank is very powerful, the stiff tip gives the illusion that the rest of the blank is quite slow in action.
Yet it’s not the fact that the action is slow or by any means soft, it’s the stiff tip not soaking up any load and just passing it down the blank.

Works great for big fish but not for much else.

I have 2 of these rods and I decided to take the standard build version back to bare blank for a complete rebuild to my spec.
So I cut everything off the rod and buffed up the blank into a fresh brand new canvas.

Then ……. I ordered in 7 different solid carbon natural finish ground tips and started to do some testing before taking a very sharp knife to the free spirits irreplaceable tip section.
Why……? Because I believe that by making that tip softer into the powerful blank I’m making the rod action faster and it will make the rod a lot more versatile when it comes to using it for other purposes.
It should feel better with lighter lines of say 4lb and yet the power and strength in the rest of the rod still remains and ensures I can still hit and hold hard against the biggest of barbel if I need. The idea behind it is achieving perfection at both ends of the scale minus bit bashing.. I’ve got no interest in that.

I don’t believe a spliced tip has ever been put into rods quite this powerful before and it wasn’t particularly easy to get a blend between the sections. It needed a tip that would go from quite soft at the front to quite stiff at the back and do this over a short 600mm distance. I don’t like spliced tip rods that have mis matched actions between the hollow and solid sections. Too soft a tip and it doesn’t work correctly.
You shouldn’t be able to tell where that joint is made under load if it’s done perfectly.
In this case the tip I used was a little stiffer than what I put in the avenger and a faster taper to ensure the stiffness in the tip got to the back end quicker so the transition between the stiff blank and soft tip blended perfectly. Took some doing and i wasn’t going to accept anything less than perfection. J

The rest of the rod got just as much attention.
Shaving weight of the 215g rod was essential and adds to the rod’s versatility because a lighter rod feels better for a lighter style of fishing.
This was done with lighter 2 types of guides with no compromising on stand off.
1.5 inch reduction on the handle with no stainless steel and changes to the guides like stepping straight into single legged after the butt guide.
Fuji kdps seat in a similar handle configuration to normarks

The result of these changes is staggering
The weight has come right off it and more importantly it’s come off the whole rod so it doesn’t have too much nose heaviness feeling to it. There is always a bit on long 15ft rods especially spliced tip rods with light handles but it’s far from excessive.

I don’t know if I’ve achieved perfection I’m waiting for the river to drop before I got out and actually tried it and I need to try it in several different scenarios to see how it fairs on a versatility basis but based on a dry pull. A reel, some line , direct comparison with other rods, it seems to be exactly as I imagined it would and I’m confident it could be very close to perfection.

Anyway….. less waffle more pics.
IMG_7685.jpeg
IMG_7686.jpeg
IMG_7664.jpeg

Original hollow tip loaded with 3oz
IMG_7681.jpeg
new spliced tip loaded with 3oz
IMG_7682.jpeg

For comparison on the softer end of the scale we have the browning sphere 13’6 river rod loaded with 3 oz
IMG_7674.jpeg

There will be more updates on it hopefully soon when it’s started getting through afew fish and undergone proper testing. Hopefully it’s fantastic and not all for nothing.
 
Very interesting post there Richard, looks likely to be a successful project....well done you!
I reckon that weight loss will make the rod feel, much better!!
 
Tough do do if it's not 😱🤣
To be honest I can't see how it won't work well.
There’s a lot that can still go wrong. While i didn’t build it back up myself, i wasn’t lead by the builder either. Every guide size, shape was my choice, the splice was all my own doing, removing the steel out the handle to shift the balance was my doing and reducing the weight of the guides to counter it was also on me.
I don’t want to take what I love away from the rod. I still want to get hell bent in to double figure fish with 0.23 line but I also would like the option to run a 4g float down the Ouse on 0.15 and catch perch and chub and not feel like the sensitivity is not there.
I certainly can’t take credit for the beautiful job of the build but the design is all mine whether it’s a success or a total disaster
 
Richard, which guides have you put on it?
Kigan sic on the but section and atlas light weight guides through out.

It’s the first custom built rod I’ve ever had where i haven’t chose Fuji
IMG_7695.jpeg

On the right you’ve got the full hollow tip section which I had built ages ago on fujis and the left is the new tip section with the atlas rings.
I got to look at afew sets before deciding on these
I didn’t want the fujis putting too much weight in the rod nose after shaving all that off the back so these made more sense
 
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I totally get why you have done it, I'm sure it will be bang on. The only draw back, for me is how the splice interacts with the float, dependant on size... but by the picture, with weight applies, looks like u have got it... great idea 💡
 
I totally get why you have done it, I'm sure it will be bang on. The only draw back, for me is how the splice interacts with the float, dependant on size... but by the picture, with weight applies, looks like u have got it... great idea 💡
I hope I’ve got it right Jon I didn’t go too light on the splice. I retained some of the stiffness by using a more suitable tip for the rod strength. It’s not as soft as the splice on my avenger or spheres. That wouldn’t of worked in this blank
 
As promised a slight update on this.
A very short trotting session on the nene with the custom designed rod and over all it seems very good indeed. However I’m yet to see its true versatility because this particular session I was fishing a very quick rising river and only managed 3 chub all of which were great big lumps and in the powerful flow I’d of been just as content using the stiffer hollow tipped model on this occasion.

My float was heavy, my line was stepped up, the river pace was quick and the few fish i caught were big so not really much of a test at all to see the rods more sensitive side.

However the rod tip really felt great it just melts into the next section you would never anticipate there was a join there at all and the action seemed so “15’6 sphere” like but with an additional 15-20% more guts through the middle right down. I’d love to see how it fairs up with a bag full of modest sized fish in the 1-3lb category.

Now blowing my own trumpet a bit here but I can comfortably say after 3 conversions under my belt, that I splice a tip into a float rod a lot better than any mass produced spliced tip rod I’ve ever come across before simply because of the time, effort and expense I go to when carrying out this task.

I buy a number of tips and try them out inserting them into the blank until I come across the right tip that works with the rods action and modify it so that the internal tapers match perfectly, Position it so that the stiffness in the back of the tip will allow the hollow blank to bend and follow the same transition going into the solid tip.

It’s a lot of faffing, swapping tips, sanding tapers and cutting bits off the blank and back of the tip till it just clicks and you know when you put a bend in the blank that it’s absolutely bang on.

There’s also ensuring the whole section length comes out correct and that the joint aligns with a guide position to the mm. It’s a real ball ache to do it properly.

Going back to the rod…. Perfection it was not though unfortunately … something that came to light very quickly in use was that I’ve made the butt section too light.
The tip section is 17g even with the lighter guides on it, and with the ultra light short handle it’s just a bit too nose heavy when compared to other 15’ rods that are in some cases heavier but feel much lighter.

straight away I knew I’d made a mistake here. So the other night I spent the evening taping and alternating little weights to the back of it and trying it out all rigged up until it felt correct in my hand for what it is.
Ideally I want around 5-6 inch infront of the reel to be the point where the rod balances to feel good on a 15ft rod. I think a little nose heaviness on long rods is good but this was too excessive.
So after some trials I Worked this out to be an additional nice easy 15g needed on the back of the handle.

So the easiest neatest way was to take ultra light weight butt cap out and take the original free spirit stainless cap machined down to the exact weight needed and fitted as a replacement.
The rod is now pretty much bang on 200g total weight but it feels lighter now than before because I got the balance wrong.

More updates to come when I can test it in better conditions and see if my balance adjustments feel as good on the river as they do in my living room.
 
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Hi Richard, congranulations on achieving your objective. I have a problem which must be common since there are lots of reports of broken rod tips. I have a Silstar diaflex with a broken tip. I’m am using it at its shortened length but would like to restore it to its original 4.2m. Its original carbon tip was about 80cm. I can see I can get longer tips in Europe, I cannot find a supplier of longer tips in the UK. I will also have the issue of removing the existing spliced in tip. Has anyone got any experience of this? Will it be glued in place? If it is how do I handle the glue or do I just have to cut back to the end of the spliced tip?

Since it seems we can no longer get bits from guides and blanks I have been looking elsewhere and seen some parts I’ve not seen before.It seems Fuji have a an attachment for the butt which has variable weights, might be useful for you.
 
Hi Richard, congranulations on achieving your objective. I have a problem which must be common since there are lots of reports of broken rod tips. I have a Silstar diaflex with a broken tip. I’m am using it at its shortened length but would like to restore it to its original 4.2m. Its original carbon tip was about 80cm. I can see I can get longer tips in Europe, I cannot find a supplier of longer tips in the UK. I will also have the issue of removing the existing spliced in tip. Has anyone got any experience of this? Will it be glued in place? If it is how do I handle the glue or do I just have to cut back to the end of the spliced tip?

Since it seems we can no longer get bits from guides and blanks I have been looking elsewhere and seen some parts I’ve not seen before.It seems Fuji have a an attachment for the butt which has variable weights, might be useful for you.
I’ve been told by a rod builder that you can remove glued splice tip by heating the joint part, but that’s a hard job and require some experience, so I never tried it, but in theory it should work.
 
I guess Richard knows this, but epoxy will soften when immersed in very hot water. I've replaced a few fly rod reel seats this way. Separating a spliced tip might not be too difficult.
.
 
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