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The Plowman 507 - the best closed face reel ever produced?

Tim Lennon

Senior Member
There seems to be a reasonable amount of interest here in closed-face reels, so here is a brief explanation of why I believe the Plowman 507 is the best closed-face trotting reel ever produced.

Dave Plowman is widely acknowledged as one of, if not the, finest centrepin reel makers in history. On the very rare occasions that one of his centrepins becomes available for sale, they command extremely high prices. The quality of his engineering workmanship is indisputable.

Dave selected the ABU 507 mk I to work his magic on for a number of very important reasons. Primarily, these are the increased spool diameter over other models, the extremely high quality of its original componentry, and its spool oscillation ratio of 1:1.
A detailed explanation of why the spool oscillation ratio is critical might be necessary.

The spool of a closed face reel oscillates in an up and down motion to achieve even line lay, much like any fixed-spool reel. On the ABU 507 mk I the spool moves up and down once for exactly one turn of the handle. In order for the line to spill most freely from the spool whilst trotting a float, the spool must be in its bottom-most position. There is considerably less friction on the flowing line with the spool in this position. On a standard closed-face reel it’s impossible to be sure when the spool is in this position, for the simple reason that you can’t see it! Dave makes a number of modifications to the standard 507 so that the spool is in its optimum position when the handle is pointing directly downwards. He also ensures that the handle returns to this position of its own accord, so that the angler doesn’t have to remember to manually do this prior to each cast.

Here is a brief outline of the modifications that Dave makes to the standard 507;
1) Hand craft a replacement shallow spool from a non-hygroscopic material (delrin or aluminium). Note that some replacement spools are made from nylon, which is hygroscopic and therefore unsuitable, because they will swell when damp. Dave’s replacement spool is shallow to avoid line bedding, is backed top and bottom to prevent line trapping, and is ventilated to prevent air trapping between the spool and main body of the reel.
2) Replace the main gear and the handle gear to greatly increase line retrieval speed.
3) Modify the line release cap to prevent line trapping, which is an issue on the standard reel.
4) Remove the anti-reverse mechanism.
5) Remove all internal heavy grease and instead lubricate with light oil.
6) Realign the handle to obtain the optimum spool position for casting (bottom dead centre).
7) Hand machine the main shaft to remove excessive play, another issue on the standard reel.
8) Replace any worn components.
9) Modify or replace the cowl to prevent the ingress of dirt.
10) Tune the reel for optimum performance.

The sum total of these various modifications transform what was a really good trotting reel in its standard guise, into what I believe is the best closed-face reel ever produced. In addition to the vastly improved overall performance, the annoying line-trapping issues of the standard reel are completely eliminated.
 
Hi Dave, it all depends what you call cheap!
If you worked out how many hours it takes Dave to do a reel, then his hourly rate would work out very cheap, compared to, say, your local motor mechanic. And, believe me, Dave is much more skilled than your local mechanic!

Tim

Tim,
I do have a slight interest in this depending on the cost !
I presume that you send him a 507 and he modifies it ?
But what we are all probably wondering is what the approximate cost will be ?
I appreciate he is a skilled engineer and what you will end up with is a piece of perfection that will last a lifetime and that has to be paid for !
So How Much We Talking ?
Dave
 
Hi Dave.
I'm afraid I can't guarantee that it will last a lifetime! The (very high quality) parts will still be prone to normal wear and tear.

This wasn't really intended as a sales advert, but I can ask Dave if he wants to do any more.

The cost would depend on whether you have a donor 507? And also the condition of the donor reel? With a donor £100-150, which I think is a bargain when you consider that it must take Dave at least a full day to perform the modifications, and includes the cost of the replacement parts.
 
Can he produce a version for the lefties among us?

I would love to have one of these?
 
Hi Dave.
I'm afraid I can't guarantee that it will last a lifetime! The (very high quality) parts will still be prone to normal wear and tear.

This wasn't really intended as a sales advert, but I can ask Dave if he wants to do any more.

The cost would depend on whether you have a donor 507? And also the condition of the donor reel? With a donor £100-150, which I think is a bargain when you consider that it must take Dave at least a full day to perform the modifications, and includes the cost of the replacement parts.

Hi Tim, great to see you giving reference to such a wonderful pin maker here some worthy recognition to this chap.

With regards to the 507, do you not find this too heavy now for most of the modern day rods . When this was a current reel, a good light weight 13ft match rod weighed in at around 16oz's and this reel weighed in at 12 plus oz's. So quite a good balance. The average 13ft rod now being 6 to 6 -1/2oz and the reels used to get the best from them tend to weigh similar.

Do those mod's mentioned reduce the weight down much?
Get him to do you a pin for xmas, and you will be putting this down! (if only)
Great to see his " engineering prowess " extended into this project, good luck with it Tim............
 
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With regards to the 507, do you not find this too heavy now for most of the modern day rods?... Get him to do you a pin for xmas, and you will be putting this down! (if only)

Hi Mark, welcome to the other species board!

You are quite right that the 507 is heavier than the Daiwa TDR that I was using for trotting for grayling. The extra weight was noticeable for about half an hour, but I soon became accustomed to it. I don't find that it unbalances the rod I use, which is a newish Daiwa Connoisseur Power Waggler 14'.

I often use a 'pin for trotting for roach, and have had a Plowman in the past, so know just how good they are! I would say that the only other modern(ish) 'pin in the same league is a Witcher, one of which I've also had in the past.
 
Slightly off topic and not wishing to hijack Tim's thread, but does/has ANYONE ever produced a decent trotting closed face with a decent drag?!
 
Hi Mark, welcome to the other species board!

You are quite right that the 507 is heavier than the Daiwa TDR that I was using for trotting for grayling. The extra weight was noticeable for about half an hour, but I soon became accustomed to it. I don't find that it unbalances the rod I use, which is a newish Daiwa Connoisseur Power Waggler 14'.

I often use a 'pin for trotting for roach, and have had a Plowman in the past, so know just how good they are! I would say that the only other modern(ish) 'pin in the same league is a Witcher, one of which I've also had in the past.[/Quote



Thanks Tim, I guess that rod choice makes for a reasonable marriage.

I used to be a great fan of the 501, but since mastering the pin i haven't look back.
There are times when even the best Wallis cast wouldn't reach my quarry. In which case I tend to use a fixed spool with the slowest oscillation/ ratio I can find. These Modern examples i find are now so good for trotting, though so very, very ,numb and indirect when compared to the "pin. " Especially when employing the finesse needed for Roach....

I too have been using a " Witcher " for much of my fishing, along with some other fine examples, but wouldn't wish to forgo it.
Even though i've recently seen a couple exchange hands for £1800 /£2300 a piece! Tempting though!

Which Ploughman / Witcher examples had you used ?, and what made you give them up? £..........?
 
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Hi Mark,

the PLOWman 'pin I had was a plain-faced example, not one of his spoked Aerial style reels. Number thirty-something, I think. The Witcher was an Avon Elite.

I chop and change because I buy and sell for my collectable vintage tackle website. I use reels that I really like for a while, but then something else comes along that I fancy having a go with...
 
Slightly off topic and not wishing to hijack Tim's thread, but does/has ANYONE ever produced a decent trotting closed face with a decent drag?!

Hi Rhys, as far as I know the answer is no!

Personally, when trotting with relatively light line I would never play a fish off the drag anyway, because of the risk of a breakage if the fish makes a sudden plunge or fast run.

This is the reason that the anti-reverse mechanism is removed on the Plowman 507. In use I also have the drag wound tightly to maximum.

When playing a fish in, I simply backwind if I need to give line. This is made easier by the modified gear ratio.

If a large fish makes a very fast unstoppable run (only a salmon or sea trout in my fishing), I let go of the handle and control the run by feathering the line as it comes off the reel with the index finger of my rod hand.

Hope this helps...
 
Hi Rhys, as far as I know the answer is no!

Personally, when trotting with relatively light line I would never play a fish off the drag anyway, because of the risk of a breakage if the fish makes a sudden plunge or fast run.

This is the reason that the anti-reverse mechanism is removed on the Plowman 507. In use I also have the drag wound tightly to maximum.

When playing a fish in, I simply backwind if I need to give line. This is made easier by the modified gear ratio.

If a large fish makes a very fast unstoppable run (only a salmon or sea trout in my fishing), I let go of the handle and control the run by feathering the line as it comes off the reel with the index finger of my rod hand.

Hope this helps...



Hi Rhys, as Tim suggests these reels are best adopted for light line use. None of the Abu examples incorporate any ball races/ bearings , and because of the quite direct drive system they employ are always best used to play fish by back- winding as suggested too. Many as you may already be aware do employ a drag system but isn't great because of the design characteristics used. many get ruined very quickly if they are used because it stresses the reel so much , especially if used continually or heavily .

The 501 incorporated a tightening system within the handle for tensioning the backwind , which I found was particularly suited to this type of reel and gave very good control with minimal stress to the reel.

If you can learn to " master the pin " and make your cast needed this offers " truly the best drag system in the world " and all component needed found within your hand . A lot of the control needed is simply lost when using anything else.
The real problem here though is you need to master it to be able appreciate what's missing with anything else.

If not then a quality fixed spool with a front drag system is the best way to go , especially if your reliant on the drag.....

Hope this helps too......
 
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Hi Mark,

the PLOWman 'pin I had was a plain-faced example, not one of his spoked Aerial style reels. Number thirty-something, I think. The Witcher was an Avon Elite.

I chop and change because I buy and sell for my collectable vintage tackle website. I use reels that I really like for a while, but then something else comes along that I fancy having a go with...

Hi Tim, What's you tackle web add- ? Cheers!
 
Cheers chaps, off with the 507 anti reverse it is!

I use a center pin when I can but for casting any distance it's a waste of time, my only concern really with the anti reverse removed was when landing a fish, but I'm sure I'll work it out.
 
Cheers chaps, off with the 507 anti reverse it is!

I use a center pin when I can but for casting any distance it's a waste of time, my only concern really with the anti reverse removed was when landing a fish, but I'm sure I'll work it out.

Hi Rhys, during the fish netting process, trap the line with the index finger of your rod hand. This will then leave your other arm/hand free to wield the net. If the fish decides to make a last minute run, feather the line with your index finger (as mentioned previously). You will then obviously have to drop the net to wind the fish back in again for another netting attempt...
 
Thanks Tim.
I meant 506M, not 507! As regards the spool being in the lowest position for trotting, I've noticed that with the 506M it is in this position when the handle's pointing down every time, despite the higher gear ratio (about 4:1 I think). Though with a 4:1 gear ratio that kind of makes sense anyway.
 
Thanks Tim.
I meant 506M, not 507! As regards the spool being in the lowest position for trotting, I've noticed that with the 506M it is in this position when the handle's pointing down every time, despite the higher gear ratio (about 4:1 I think). Though with a 4:1 gear ratio that kind of makes sense anyway.

Hi Rhys.
The GEAR RATIO relates to the amount of line retrieved per turn of the handle.
The OSCILLATION RATIO relates to the number of up and down movements of the spool per turn of the handle, to achieve even line lay.

They are two separate things.

However, from what you're saying, it sounds like your 506M has an oscillation ratio of 1:1 (like the 507), which is good news! It also sounds like someone may already have modified your reel's handle alignment, unless it was just a lucky coincidence it came out of the factory like that.
 
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