Spliced tipped float rods.

[Richard Isaacs]

Calling all float trotters (again)
Where do you stand on this (vote) and why.
I love a spliced tip for trotting for several reasons whether they we’re initially designed for that reason or not.

Striking or whipping the tip with the wrist performs a very positive and fast strike.

Additional Flex in the tip protects finer more balanced tackle

Additional flex in the tip loads up very nicely when casting out floats

The tip bends easily to the point of joint creating a faster taper tip action rod allowing line to be picked up and mended without floats being pulled off the path.

They are more robust than equally fine hollow tips .

We have seen modern rods start to obtain these wonderful splices again and I for one hope they keep coming.
What’s your veiws on these as I’d imagine this might divide the group abit.

 

[Ian Woods]

Very interesting subject Richard.....

My view on this is, with the improvement of hollow tips, spliced tips are kind of superfluous nowadays.
For my style of fishing I find having a splice slows down my strike, especially when fishing at range. Also, such a soft tip section doesn't pick up the line or enable me to throw it when mending it so well as a hollow tip rod does.
Since I very rarely ever use a main line or hooklength of less a breaking strain than 3 or more pounds I have no real need to have such a soft cushioning tip section to protect the line from cracking off on the strike.
Spliced tips and stick floats are equally superfluous to me and my approach to trotting.
After saying that, I do have a couple of the 13ft 6inch browning spheres which I do enjoy using just not so much as I enjoy using the 13 and 14ft sphere waggler rods .

 

[Julian Griffiths]

I like whatever my drennan IM9's are, guessing solid tip.

However if what you've written is correct, then it's hard to disagree with all the positive attributes a spliced tip would bring to a float rod. A very interesting post Richard.

 

[Alan Rose]

I don’t feel particularly qualified to comment as I have one ST rod (a Browning Sphere) and it’s the only one I’ve ever had. What I will say is that since having it I have used it more than any other float rod I own, and especially for grayling (for which it is simply magnificent). The capacity for hitting bites at the end of a long trot with a flick of the wrist has to be experienced to be believed really. It also Wallis casts really beautifully, although I was nervous about giving it some welly for the first few sessions as the tip is really fine!

 

[Richard Isaacs]

I don’t feel particularly qualified to comment as I have one ST rod (a Browning Sphere) and it’s the only one I’ve ever had. What I will say is that since having it I have used it more than any other float rod I own, and especially for grayling (for which it is simply magnificent). The capacity for hitting bites at the end of a long trot with a flick of the wrist has to be experienced to be believed really. It also Wallis casts really beautifully, although I was nervous about giving it some welly for the first few sessions as the tip is really fine!

With a post like that Alan your over qualified
Clearly a fan

 

[Richard Isaacs]

I like whatever my drennan IM9's are, guessing solid tip.

However if what you've written is correct, then it's hard to disagree with all the positive attributes a spliced tip would bring to a float rod. A very interesting post Richard.

AFAIK the most recent IM9’s (finesse and classic) are always hollow tipped and cracking float rods they are aswell Julian.

You would be able to tell straight away because the very tip on a spliced tip rod is incredibly fine and really quite soft. The weight of a 4-6g float and rig is enough to double the tip right over. They are really lovely to effortlessly cast with as your float rig loads the tip up really nicely to propel it down the river.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Very interesting subject Richard.....

My view on this is, with the improvement of hollow tips, spliced tips are kind of superfluous nowadays.
For my style of fishing I find having a splice slows down my strike, especially when fishing at range. Also, such a soft tip section doesn't pick up the line or enable me to throw it when mending it so well as a hollow tip rod does.
Since I very rarely ever use a main line or hooklength of less a breaking strain than 3 or more pounds I have no real need to have such a soft cushioning tip section to protect the line from cracking off on the strike.
Spliced tips and stick floats are equally superfluous to me and my approach to trotting.
After saying that, I do have a couple of the 13ft 6inch browning spheres which I do enjoy using just not so much as I enjoy using the 13 and 14ft sphere waggler rods .

It’s been a long long time since I’ve used a float without at very least 3grams under it.
I don’t think I’d be able to cast a stick for a start so I’m with you on that.

I’m the complete opposite to you on this.
And can confidently say that casting, striking, mending and trotting are all more pleasant with a spliced tip.

I’magine the signature pro with a spliced 600mm carbon tip and a 40mm stand off butt ring
I’d not want to use another rod come winter time for those big nene and Ouse chub.

 

[Andrew Burt]

The need for a spliced tip went out with advances in carbon fibre technology in the 1990’s. In the 1980’s and through the 1990’s river fishing was all about light lines, 12oz bottoms and the like. Early carbon fibre was good for light and stiff so a vast improvement on glass fibre but was not so flexible as glass fibre when rolled on a mandril. That’s long confined to the past as far as I’m concerned and it’s easy now to make a very cheap blank that performs superbly coping with fine lines and flexible when required whilst remaining absolutely rigid whilst being fished with. I see no benefits or need spliced tips on a well made modern blank. Carbotec and Cadence user now

 

[Richard Isaacs]

The need for a spliced tip went out with advances in carbon fibre technology in the 1990’s. In the 1980’s and through the 1990’s river fishing was all about light lines, 12oz bottoms and the like. Early carbon fibre was good for light and stiff so a vast improvement on glass fibre but was not so flexible as glass fibre when rolled on a mandril. That’s long confined to the past as far as I’m concerned and it’s easy now to make a very cheap blank that performs superbly coping with fine lines and flexible when required whilst remaining absolutely rigid whilst being fished with. I see no benefits or need spliced tips on a well made modern blank. Carbotec and Cadence user now

I don’t use main lines of less than 4lb and hook lengths of less than 0.14. I’m always fishing for bigger better fish when I’m trotting.
The splice for me isn’t to provide hook length protection even if that was their initial idea when first put into light action rods.

I have a lot more hollow tips than I do spliced due to availability more than anything else but definitely for me the whole experience of trotting is nicer with a solid fine tip.

Rod technology hasn’t replaced it.

 

[Tim Marks]

I use a Tricast Triaxial - a power float rod that has a spliced tip. An interesting way of softening the tip of a powerful blank.

Old technology admittedly, but it works quite well.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

I use a Tricast Triaxial - a power float rod that has a spliced tip. An interesting way of softening the tip of a powerful blank.

Old technology admittedly, but it works quite well.

The alertons had a similar concept. They are really stiff blanks with spliced tips.
The sphere river rods are very capable too again not small fish or light line rods but were gifted with that beauty of a tip

 

[Tim Marks]

The alertons had a similar concept. They are really stiff blanks with spliced tips.
The sphere river rods are very capable too again not small fish or light line rods but were gifted with that beauty of a tip

I’ve never fished with an Allerton, so can’t comment either way.

All my other float rods are hollow tipped eg Daiwa and Maver.

 

[Dave Durrant]

How about swinging in fish?
I guess you have to be more careful with a spliced tip?

 

[Alan Rose]

How about swinging in fish?
I guess you have to be more careful with a spliced tip?

Not especially, no. I generally try to net anything that isn’t a real tiddler, but the spliced tip on my rod bends so progressively into the blank that it’s not really an issue. If there was little to no transition between tip and blank I imagine it would be riskier.

 

[Ian Woods]

I hear about this flick of the wrist strike now and again. I don't consider myself to be limp wristed , but I don't think I could do that and hook fish at range, especially with a spliced rod! I would have to use a sweeping strike or at least use my forearm to be sure of driving the hook home.
A spliced tipped rod cushions a strike, that was the whole idea of it, to help stop light lines cracking off on the strike.
That cushioning effect dampens the power of the strike and will lessen the chance of hooking fish at any range, and will most likely cause more fish to be bumped off, due to the hook not being driven home properly.
If trotting any distance a spliced tipped rod is the wrong choice of rod to use...imo.

 

[Chris Jones]

Not all spliced tip rods are equal. I accept that the spliced tip rods that appeared at the beginning of the carbon era were definitely for enabling the use stupidly light hooklengths. However, that concept has stuck with so many anglers as being the only reason for them. I suspect that more than the odd individual repeating this mantra has never used a spliced tip rod, or not used one since the early eighties.

It's also the case that some spliced tip float rods are utterly useless for trotting. These certainly have spliced tips, but they are better described as canal/drain/light waggler rods than stick float/trotting rods. They are way too through actioned for setting a hook if you trot much further than ten to fifteen yards. A spliced tip trotting rod should have a totally different action.

I like both types of spliced tip rod, but there are some horrible examples of both out there. Every time I hear "flat spot", "lock up" or something along the lines of "rigid up to the splice", I know someone has experienced what I'd consider a poor spliced tip rod. It's also interesting how many people believe spliced tips to be particularly delicate. I haven't found that to be the case over the last thirty odd years. However, they are similarly vulnerable to being stotted off trees, or to line wrap arounds, as hollow tipped match rods are. I'm more wary when using my Acolyte Ultras or Titan 2000 than I am spliced tip rods. Using a centrepin when trotting does help a lot in this regard. wrap arounds get spotted before they become a problem.

I use through actioned light waggler spliced tip rods on stillwaters for roach with barbless hooks. I don't fish especially light hooklinks. The splice and softness are purely to minimise hook pulls. I like spliced tip trotting rods for the action under very little load. I believe it allows a lighter touch when controlling floats and mending line. Once a fish is hooked, I find that the spliced tip is largely irrelevant. I'd prefer the action under load to be basically the same as the equivalent hollow tipped match/waggler rod.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

I hear about this flick of the wrist strike now and again. I don't consider myself to be limp wristed , but I don't think I could do that and hook fish at range, especially with a spliced rod! I would have to use a sweeping strike or at least use my forearm to be sure of driving the hook home.
A spliced tipped rod cushions a strike, that was the whole idea of it, to help stop light lines cracking off on the strike.
That cushioning effect dampens the power of the strike and will lessen the chance of hooking fish at any range, and will most likely cause more fish to be bumped off, due to the hook not being driven home properly.
If trotting any distance a spliced tipped rod is the wrong choice of rod to use...imo.

I disagree with nearly all of that, It doesn’t work like you describe at all.

If your trotting a top n bottom float in most situations your holding it back and reducing its pace in order to kick the bait out infront and create a more natural speed to what the current is like at the bottom.

This means you have a relatively tight line to your float and in lot of situations if you can keep the line very direct to the float you feel the bite through the rod as the float is rammed under. All you need is to pull that hook afew mm’s and it’s in.
A short sharp whip of the rod tip is just as effective, trust me if I was losing or missing fish because of this i wouldn’t continue

Id be up for testing this with any doubters by letting them hold the hook at 60 yards and seeing just for themselves how little pressure is needed from me holding the other end and waiting for the “ow ow ow ow “
I’m not expecting many volunteers

If your line is performing large S shapes down the river then yes all your going to do is pick up the slack on the strike and perform quite poorly at hitting home.

If I’m using a spliced tip rod I will whip that tip back to hit fish. It’s difficult to describe but you kind of preload the tip and whip it back with your wrist. My forearm stays straight. and I’ll do it faster than an across the body sweep with a hollow tip rod

With as much line off the water as possible and a reduced pace float, it’s waaaaaaaaay more than enough force to drive hooks from as far as my eyes will let me see a float.

 

[Simon Archer]

My spliced tip rods, I've got four of them. Perfect for a 4 x 4 Ultra Lignum stick float. 2.1lb Bayer to a 0.08 hooklength. Running it down the upper Trent is perfect for the size of the silvers in there. If the odd Chub does decide to open it's mouth and have a nibble, just enough power to subdue one. Once landed a 7lb 4oz Barbel on one. On 1 1/2lb bottom and a 22 hook.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

horrible examples of both out there

I’ve had some bad n’s

Shimano twin power ST with the double leg guides on the tip was pretty awful

Mk3 John alerton 15ft which I lost money on I didn’t like either

Harrison GTI ST. Although the tip transition was pretty good i found the whole rod exhausting due to its over exaggerated nose heaviness.

 

[Neil Watson]

Calling all float trotters (again)
Where do you stand on this (vote) and why.
I love a spliced tip for trotting for several reasons whether they we’re initially designed for that reason or not.

Striking or whipping the tip with the wrist performs a very positive and fast strike.

Additional Flex in the tip protects finer more balanced tackle

Additional flex in the tip loads up very nicely when casting out floats

The tip bends easily to the point of joint creating a faster taper tip action rod allowing line to be picked up and mended without floats being pulled off the path.

They are more robust than equally fine hollow tips .

We have seen modern rods start to obtain these wonderful splices again and I for one hope they keep coming.
What’s your veiws on these as I’d imagine this might divide the group abit.

In my experience I bump less fish when I strike into a bite. That why I prefer spliced tip float rods.