I thought Iād share this having evolved a very basic common used rig to work a little better for me personally.
The rig in question is as old as the hills and any quick search on google will find it to 90% with individual changes to suit the user.
The mechanics are simple. Strong line, big float, bulk weight, strong hook.
Adopt this and youāve got a float rig predominately designed for barbel on big powerful riversā¦ā¦ but the devil is in the detail as often said and Iām going to put afew details up that may or may not improve it further for people. It certainly has for me.
Firstly I must confess that I hadnāt caught a barbel on the float by design until just 2 years ago. Iāve been float fishing pacy rivers since I was at school but targeting barbel has been relatively new to me. I now have way over 100 of them under my belt with 80 plus caught since June this year when most of my rig fettleing has taken place.
Floats ā¦. Itās cost me a small fortune to find just 2 that I think are perfect. A float has got to be able to be held back hard and still sit relatively vertically in the most turbulent of water. At first I thought this was predominantly down to the weight applied but itās not. Itās a combination of the float design and the amount of weight applied as Iāve found through trying out hundreds of them.
My choice of float shown here
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@Andrew Burt big floats or sensas Somme (modified) these are the best Iāve found for holding back hard in powerful water and still retaining a semi vertical presentation.
I think itās due to the body bulk being down at the bottom rather than like most with them being tapered towards the top. They are my personal best 2 floats for the job.
Youāll also notice they are 11g and 12g. Big yes but through experience of trying smaller ones Iād now say your wasting your time putting anything smaller than 10g on for the Trent particularly. Iām trying to save you some money here so donāt waste it on 6 or 8g floats.
The sensas Sommeās usually come with very thin tips. I canāt see them after 30-40 yards so mine are modified with wider tops. Andyās are perfect as they are.
Attached only with silicone rubbers I do not use float eyes or body holes. I never have I never will. I also use lots of rubbers on the stem a minimum 4 of because I donāt want my depth being altered even after a good scrap
There is nothing on my entire rig that I canāt change in seconds without tackling anything down. That is crucial to me.
Barbel give you feeding windows and the last thing you want to be doing is stripping your rig down for 5 minutes to change a broken float while they are on the munch.
Bull weight.
Like most I donāt use split shot. Not anywhere on my rig is there a single shot. I use olivettes and I like the drennan ones (to a degree)
Like my floats the line doesnāt pass through them. And no company has yet come out with one I can fit and change without part tackling down (unless itās 6g or under then there is plenty)
My olivettes look like this
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Stainless rod fitted inside them and attached to the line with 0.7 diameter silicone rubber is by a mile the best way to use them imo.
They are very tight gripping the line. They never slip out of position even after a good scrap all my tackle stays putā¦ very important!
they can however be re positioned by hand where you want on the line, they can be changed in seconds if needed with heavier weights to suit different floats if conditions on the day change.
and no poxy float stops to bother with. Float stops are Again another item that doesnāt belong on my rig I hate the things.
If you are going to fit olivettes like this be sure to round off the ends of the stainless rod to prevent a sharp Edge cutting your tube or line. I use a file and get them perfectly rounded off.
Next item on my rig is one i begrudge a little because I donāt want to use it. Thatās the swivel. I want to fish straight through for these powerful fish and while that may raise eyebrows Iām sure, I know that unless something cuts my mainline the weakest part of my rig is the hook knot. I donāt need a hook length itās just adding a weak link further up the line.
However itās there because I donāt want line twist permanently deforming my rig during the course of the day so I use a drennan size 14 quick link swivel and itās spot on. I can replace hook lengthās again very quickly with no changes to the rig.
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My hook length is exactly the same Material and diameter as my main line I see no advantages to make this thinner or lighter, that would be daft in my opinion. Iām fishing for double figured barbel on fast rivers. The entire line set up on this rig is made up from Korum glide float line. Been using it this season and I absolutely love it. The properties in this line are exactly what I want. Itās the most buoyant line Iāve ever used, itās strong, itās clear and it pays off my reels so straight and controllable Iām definitely sold on it. It comes in 250m spools too which is very useful for filling up afew reels
I use 0.23 for both main line and hook length. (8lb approx)
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Lastly the hook. Size 10 or 8 Kamazan animal. Used them for more than 15 years and they are superb big fish match type hooks. Everyone has a pattern they like and I use these exclusively from size 18-8 for all manner of fish. Itās a great hook.
On this rig definitely barbless. I unhook 90% of my fish in the water while holding a rod and net etc so I donāt like faffing with barbs.
And thatās is. My float rig for barbel. Pretty much the same mechanics as everyone elseās but but with some tweaks to make it suit me.
Itās definitely tried and tested with the last 65-70 barbel I have caught being on this latest evolution.