Quick change hook rig - Korda Hook Klips

[Julian Griffiths]

How long do you leave your baits in the water for with filed hooks?

I’m leaving mine 10-12 hours. I used to sharpen them myself but without the coating they do corrode and most packet hooks are now sharp enough - any sharper and fishing over gravel or stones can ruin the point pretty quick, so literally defeats the point..pun intended.

Not that I bother about any of this, I've heard people putting vasalin over the hook points after sharpening...
Hooks are just too expensive to be swapping them over after each cast or fish.
If I've caught and I feel a burr on them well yes sure I'll use another rig, but if not I'll continue with the one I have tied on

 

[Simon Archer]

yes I agree but obviously the kicker is a necessary element to cover the klip part up and secure it.

Does it feel too big a rig with the kicker on? I’ve been experimenting with this actually.

I'm not a massive Carp angler, I probably only go a couple of times a year. However, I do like how the Carp anglers construct their rigs. Some of them have been really well thought out. With regards the kicker. Their rigs are invariably short and mostly fished in stillwater and the fish could come from any angle to intercept the bait. I think in that respect the kicker then helps with getting a good hook hold, or "aggressive" as the Carp lads say. The "ronnie rig" is a prime example in that. The hook is always in a perfect position for a hook up. It'll reset it's self as well.

With my Barbel rigs, I like to keep it simple. Generally a hair rig with a small piece of silicon on the shank. That's it. Putting a kicker on my Barbel rigs looks just wrong to me as I want my rig to be straight, including the hook. I'd imagine most Barbel swim upstream to intercept the bait, I can see a point where a kicker could actually put the hook at too much of an angle to the fish and not achieve a good hold.

One rig I am going to give a go is a slip D rig with a wafter on a combi rig on some of the slower paced swims. The hook klip will be ideal for that rig, and you can re use the hooklength over and over.

All my own opinion of course.

 

[Kevin Brown]

I think the kicker evolved from Jim Gibbinsons line aligner rig , basically a piece of shrink tube on the shank with the hook link coming out above the eye and through the front of the tube , the hook turns quicker this way , I’ve used it in just about every form of fishing I’ve done in the last 30 odd years , you get tremendous hook holds with a sharp hook .

I just use a short piece of braid , tie the hook on with a knotless knot then use the silicone tube line aligner style .
then tie the braid on using a allbright knot to the mainline , don’t bother with swivels etc , use a enterprise tackle adjuster stop for the feeder/lead stop .
this way it’s simple tying a new length of braid/hook on plus you have a quick way of shortening / lengthening the hook link .

Bank tackle hooks size 10 or 8 if I’m using a double boilie rig , they’re around £11 for 50 .

 

[Cliff Turner]

How long do you leave your baits in the water for with filed hooks?

I’m leaving mine 10-12 hours. I used to sharpen them myself but without the coating they do corrode and most packet hooks are now sharp enough - any sharper and fishing over gravel or stones can ruin the point pretty quick, so literally defeats the point..pun intended.

Hi Simon, for barbel I would very rarely leave the hook in for longer than 30 minutes, usually more like 15, but that's feeder fishing on rivers like the Wye, Severn, Trent. On a lower density river maybe an hour as I personally do not like the bait and wait approach.

 

[Simon Haggis]

Hi Simon, for barbel I would very rarely leave the hook in for longer than 30 minutes, usually more like 15, but that's feeder fishing on rivers like the Wye, Severn, Trent. On a lower density river maybe an hour as I personally do not like the bait and wait approach.

I’d prefer not to bait and wait but if you’ve ever fished low density rivers like the Loddon or Thames then there’s not much choice,

if I was fishing a bite an hour then no problem with hook sharpening - although then I might not be bothered about sharpness so much if there were that many competing fish and more bites

 

[Simon Haggis]

KIS

I'm not a massive Carp angler, I probably only go a couple of times a year. However, I do like how the Carp anglers construct their rigs. Some of them have been really well thought out. With regards the kicker. Their rigs are invariably short and mostly fished in stillwater and the fish could come from any angle to intercept the bait. I think in that respect the kicker then helps with getting a good hook hold, or "aggressive" as the Carp lads say. The "ronnie rig" is a prime example in that. The hook is always in a perfect position for a hook up. It'll reset it's self as well.

With my Barbel rigs, I like to keep it simple. Generally a hair rig with a small piece of silicon on the shank. That's it. Putting a kicker on my Barbel rigs looks just wrong to me as I want my rig to be straight, including the hook. I'd imagine most Barbel swim upstream to intercept the bait, I can see a point where a kicker could actually put the hook at too much of an angle to the fish and not achieve a good hold.

One rig I am going to give a go is a slip D rig with a wafter on a combi rig on some of the slower paced swims. The hook klip will be ideal for that rig, and you can re use the hooklength over and over.

All my own opinion of course.

KISS is alway best for sure.

I’ve not used a slip d type rig as I feel in a river with small fish and any flow there’s a chance it’s going to get shoved around too much.

 

[Paul Richardson]

I cant ever think of a scenario when I just wanted to change the hook ? If the hook lost its sharpness then a quick file with a sharpener sorts that. However, I regularly find a nick in the hook length material that necessitates a new hooklength, generally after landing a fish.

I was thinking of some winter chubbing
Might have started with a small boilie on say a 10 but want to switch to a lump of paste, chunk of lamprey or bread on say a 6 or vice versa
Ok you can just change the hook link but might be an option?
Every session I end up with hooklinks draped over my tackle box or dropped in a bucket for a number of reasons - abrasion, Knick, dull point, hair too long/ too short etc..
I haven’t really thought it through in any great detail but I think I’d risk a few quid to get a pack to tinker with

 

[Rob Mitchell]

I cant ever think of a scenario when I just wanted to change the hook ? If the hook lost its sharpness then a quick file with a sharpener sorts that. However, I regularly find a nick in the hook length material that necessitates a new hooklength, generally after landing a fish.

Rocky areas constantly turning over the hook point? I go through a ton of hooks on the tidal Trent, doesn’t matter if they’re straight point or beaked, some swims are so rocky that I can go through a packet of hooks in 24 hours. I usually use a combi rig and have a load of short braid hook sections tied up so I can just cut the old one off and loop-to-loop to the long fluoro section. A simple system to change just the hook would be very helpful and I’ll be looking at these clips myself.

Even fishing in those tough areas my fluoro sections generally last between 10 and 30 hooks.

 

[Cliff Turner]

Rocky areas constantly turning over the hook point? I go through a ton of hooks on the tidal Trent, doesn’t matter if they’re straight point or beaked, some swims are so rocky that I can go through a packet of hooks in 24 hours. I usually use a combi rig and have a load of short braid hook sections tied up so I can just cut the old one off and loop-to-loop to the long fluoro section. A simple system to change just the hook would be very helpful and I’ll be looking at these clips myself.

Even fishing in those tough areas my fluoro sections generally last between 10 and 30 hooks.

I use the bank tackle hooks as I find I can sharpen then a good few times before the point becomes to short but in your situation sounds like its worth giving them a go !

 

[Simon Haggis]

I think the important thing for us barbel folk compared to carpers is that we need to use a shorter shank hook for these to work ok.

Rocky areas constantly turning over the hook point? I go through a ton of hooks on the tidal Trent, doesn’t matter if they’re straight point or beaked, some swims are so rocky that I can go through a packet of hooks in 24 hours. I usually use a combi rig and have a load of short braid hook sections tied up so I can just cut the old one off and loop-to-loop to the long fluoro section. A simple system to change just the hook would be very helpful and I’ll be looking at these clips myself.

Even fishing in those tough areas my fluoro sections generally last between 10 and 30 hooks.

sounds like it would be useful. I thought I was bad getting through hooks!

 

[Kevin Steele]

I can see the appeal. Hook length material would literally last years…

This is actually the opposite to changing the hook link Derek. It’s a quick change hook clip so that you can actually keep using the same hook link over and over and just slap a new hook on as and when.

Not sure I understand. How does this protect hook-lengths?

Surely, if a hook needs replacing because it is blunt, it's wise to replace the entire hook-length because there's a fair chance that it too is damaged. Just replace the whole hook length.

As for saving time, doesn't everyone make their hook-lengths (in various lengths) at home? Securing to a quick change swivels is quicker than using this Korda thing.

Fishing is obviously more complicated than I realised... I must be missing something!
.

 

[Joe Winstanley]

Surely, if a hook needs replacing because it is blunt, it's wise to replace the entire hook-length because there's a fair chance that it too is damaged. Just replace the whole hook length

Sharp hooks blunt really easy on gravel, rocky bottoms. I also like to use straight-points when the bait is likely to be in the water a long time because I'm fishing for just one bite - they are murder for quickly going blunt. I reckon 90% of the time I'm changing my hooklength it's because the hook has lost its sharpness or the point burred, but the hooklength is absolutely fine.

That's not a issue when using one material straight through, but a bit different when using a combi-rig for which more time goes into tying-up. Being able to just change the hook is very convenient.

Of course when your on the bank, it may be quicker just to change the whole hook and hooklength with one you already have pre-tied...but some time and effort went into tying that at some point.

 

[Kevin Steele]

Of course when your on the bank, it may be quicker just to change the whole hook and hooklength with one you already have pre-tied...but some time and effort went into tying that at some point.

Each to his own of course, but I'd rather spend any time making hook-lengths at home. Preferably on a rainy day, while drinking a cuppa and listening to the radio, with my wife looking on from time to time, with a bemused look on her face. Korda have made enough money out of me with their Compac luggage.
.

 

[Simon Haggis]

Sharp hooks blunt really easy on gravel, rocky bottoms. I also like to use straight-points when the bait is likely to be in the water a long time because I'm fishing for just one bite - they are murder for quickly going blunt. I reckon 90% of the time I'm changing my hooklength it's because the hook has lost its sharpness or the point burred, but the hooklength is absolutely fine.

That's not a issue when using one material straight through, but a bit different when using a combi-rig for which more time goes into tying-up. Being able to just change the hook is very convenient.

Of course when your on the bank, it may be quicker just to change the whole hook and hooklength with one you already have pre-tied...but some time and effort went into tying that at some point.

Exactly this

 

[Rob Mitchell]

Each to his own of course, but I'd rather spend any time making hook-lengths at home. Preferably on a rainy day, while drinking a cuppa and listening to the radio, with my wife looking on from time to time, with a bemused look on her face. Korda have made enough money out of me with their Compac luggage.
.

In many situations, hook points turn over on rocks and gravel far more often than the hooklink material gets damaged, and it’s a massive waste to be throwing away 2-3ft of braid/fluoro every time. It’s certainly a lot more expensive than tying up short sections to make a combi rig, or using this hook clip to change only the hook.

 

[Mark Anderson]

Hi men ,

6 hooklengths tied with the clips for France next week , definitely something I will use on certain rigs , but obviously you cover with a kicker which is something I never used on my barbel rigs .

Hatter

 

[Richard Isaacs]

For me hooks are always the first thing to go before the hook length itself.
I can sharpen blunt ones no problem, I can’t perform miracles on curled over points that have just been pulled from a snag.

If I could just clip on a new hook that’s a great thing. It’s not adding bits to a rig without a purpose, it’s reducing the amount of this shit we throw into the bin.

I’m not even thinking about the cost savings but more about how much line ends up in land fill or left in places it shouldn’t be. This would help reduce that

 

[Jon Young]

I guess it all comes down to where you fish. As I only fish the Severn my hooklinks get battered up way more frequently than my hooks. Also it depends on what bait you’re using. Fishing a chunk of meat with the hook buried in it means a lot less hook damage than a hair rigged bait.

 

[Bill Walford]

I’m only a simple soul and like the KISS philosophy and can’t see the problem with just changing the hooklink when required BUT if it’s the hook you want to change I’m surprised no one has mentioned the multi rig? Doesn’t that achieve the same end without added bits ?

 

[Jon Frisby]

These are made for Ronnie rigs etc. If you are using them as a bottom rig; then imo they change the mechanics of hooking a Barbel. Ie the shank is heavier and making the point lighter. It should be opposite. I will bet on more hook pulls, if used this way....