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Progressive or Through action. In need of some advice

Joe Fletcher

No Longer a Member
In need of some advice and opinion's on either through action or progressive action rods . Up until last season I used a Greys Prodigy 12' 1.5lb rod and 99 times out of a 100 hooked and put the fish on the bank with no problems . Most of the time fished open water no snags and no problems.
Some times when I hooked a fish near a snag . I did not have the power to stop the fish running to a snag and ended up with a lost fish .
This season after doing my home work and research . [ I read Trefor West's book Barbel A Lifetimes Addiction ] and he recommends a progressive action 1.75 lb rod . After much searching I decided to buy a Fox Duo-lite Barbel Xtra 1.75 rod . Some time in the future I plan to fish the Teme and hope that this rod would have the power to stop any Barbel in its tracks and put it on the bank .
This season so far I have fished the Wye and the W/Avon .The problem I have had with the rod so far is . I get the 3ft wrap around bite and with in seconds the fish slips the hook . I have tried the avon top and the quiver tip and it makes no difference . I have not changed my hooks . I have checked them for sharpness or my end rigs from last season. The one comment I would make on this rod is , That it seems a lot stiffer than my Greys rod . Could that be the problem . Your help and advice would be welcome
 
yes, sounds like the fish is getting bumped off.
not keen on most fox stuff.
 
I know what you mean about the Prodigy, I have the 1.75 version and it is a soft rod, sometimes feels as if it's not going to stop a fish BUT it does have a lot of power further down. As long as the rod doesn't go round so far that it 'locks' I think it's better to have that sort of shock-absorber action than a stiffer rod that may lead to hook-pulls.

ps Only ever use the Avon top on mine for barbel, the quiver top only gets used for winter chubbing.
 
Rod test curves are so subjective, they're almost an irrelevance.

Best bet is to go to a tackle shop and have a play with a few rods and select a rod that suits you because what is good for Trefor West might not be good for you, undoubtedly he'll play fish differently to you??

Personally speaking I love my 2lb test Greys Prodigy and I'd agree with many that thet are a soft 2lb test rod, but it suits me perfectly.
 
Yep, the Greys barbel rods do seem quite soft for their TC ratings. That's why, despite usually fishing smaller rivers, I tend to use 1.75 and 2lb Greys rods. Many on here consider that to be overkill (based on TC alone) on the smaller rivers but it works for me. The quiver sections only get used through the winter when chub are often the saviours of a session.
 
Rod test curves are so subjective, they're almost an irrelevance.

Best bet is to go to a tackle shop and have a play with a few rods and select a rod that suits you because what is good for Trefor West might not be good for you, undoubtedly he'll play fish differently to you??

Personally speaking I love my 2lb test Greys Prodigy and I'd agree with many that thet are a soft 2lb test rod, but it suits me perfectly.

Thanks for your replies . So would a softer 1.75 lb ie Greys prodigy rod being used on the Teme stop large fish running to a snag before locking up . I know we all play fish differently . Your views would be welcomed
 
Get yourself a Nash Barbel Elite 1.5lb if you can find one. It'll stop anything you're likely to hook. I reckon you'd need to be Geoff Capes attached to a 16 tonne truck to break it.

When you say you 'didn't have the power' to stop fish near a snag, are you sure you weren't a bit scared to put a 'proper' bend in your rod?
 
I could give you some rod recommendations Joe, but I feel that it is not your rod that is the issue here.
I have had some pokers in my time, one in particular - a Northwestern Big Barbel - suitable for chucking out plenty of lead but not for fishing relatively light on a Kennet or Avon. However, the stiffness of that rod showed itself in losing fish under the rod top or on having bought the fish to the surface for it to thrash around a little - it didn't have that give in the tip whilst fishing light to soak that thrashing up.
I cannot put my finger on what might be the problem here but suggest it is something other than the rod.
It might be very plausible that where you're fishing at the moment the fish are not really having it earnest, and having your new rod has convinced you that that might be at the heart of the problem...


Just my thoughts.


Damian
 
Agree with declan about the Nash rods,I use the 2lb tv rods, also use one for floater fishing and had carp to nearly 30lb on it..

Luke
 
Rod Action

Find myself agreeing with Damian on this one. I tend to use a Fox Floodwater 2.75lbs for 90% of my fishing (pauses momentarily and waits for the sound of traditionalists falling off their chairs) in high water, low water and normal levels and revert to older Shimano 1.75lbs for the other 10%.

Rods are a very personal think (as are hooks, lines etc) but I don't think that the rod's the problem here, more likely the way the fish are picking the bait up (ie tentatively) or the length of the hooklink.

Try varying some of your presentations to see if that sorts it out before you write off the rod.
 
I tend to use a Fox Floodwater 2.75lbs for 90% of my fishing (pauses momentarily and waits for the sound of traditionalists falling off their chairs) in high water, low water and normal levels and revert to older Shimano 1.75lbs for the other 10%.

The next time someone is berated for going to heavy with 1.75lb rods you are going to get referenced!;):D
 
As an aside here, do you think that at present most ratings are arbitrary?

It might sound like much of a muchness, but would a casting weight rating give us a better indication to a rods suitability for our intended need?



Damian
 
Thanks for your replies . So would a softer 1.75 lb ie Greys prodigy rod being used on the Teme stop large fish running to a snag before locking up . I know we all play fish differently . Your views would be welcomed

I remember when first looking at buying my Greys rods, I was told that the 1.75lb test rod had the same butt section as 2lb version.
So yes if you bend your rod into a fish hard, it'll respond by offering the back bone to pull the fish without buckling.

I've taken numerous 20lb+ carp on my rod, plus a near 20lb catfish, which I'd hazard a guess at fights harder than any barbel in UK waters?!:eek:

I will say though, most barbel rods come with a max line rating of 12lb and I doubt many would actually take a 12lb load without snapping.:eek:
(I snapped one last season on a big Thames carp on 12lb line, just before the rod went the thought crossed my mind as to what would give first, answer the rod....
Many will blame the rod but me, I'd debate that and ask them to bend their rods against 12lb Ultima Power Plus line and see what gives first.
That coupled with the compleat lack of care and respect I show my kit.;) (dread to think how many times it'd been thrown across the field behind me in rage):eek::)
 
Another factor is your individual budget,a year ago I has a lucky win at Royal Ascot and treated myself to one of our Bob Gills specials, a Torrix 1.75lb test and really cant fault it,I previously had a Greys Prodigy 1.5lb Barbel and felt a little undergunned landing a 13.6oz fish in heavy flow plus the tip tended to be too sensitive for me.The Torrix really is a joy to play fish on and Bob Gill is a true craftsman who produces beautiful rods,so if you can afford it go on and treat yourself you wont regret it.
 
As an aside here, do you think that at present most ratings are arbitrary?Damian

Interesting point. The TC rating has very little to do with how the rod behaves when in use. Recently I've been using an old North Western carbon kevlar 1.5TC alongside a Prodigy 1.75. When tensioned up in the flow the Prodigy bends a LOT more than the older rod, but when playing a fish the Prodigy has far more power when it's in 'fighting curve'.

So TC alone is pretty irrelevant, the overall action of the rod is influenced more by the taper and the makeup of the blank.
 
Mono not braid

Evening Joe.

Was wondering if you use Braid or mono for the mainline, being as it is that braid does not have any stretch in its makeup, and mono does to a certain extent, the mono that I use seems to stretch a little anyway, and that gives me confidence as its helps a little to absorb the violent lunges that my fish on occasions give, thus eliminating bump offs to a certain extent.

I'm not saying you need yet another rod, but the ones I have faith in are the progressive actioned blanks, they again absorb the lunges better than the stiffer actioned blanks, and for your benefit the rods that I use are the Harrison's blanked jobs sold on from Trefor West, and have had some serious big fights from alongside snags on that rod, as Trefor said to me, "If the rod snaps when playing a Barbel Julian, I will replace it for you"!

The Free Spirits I.S and Seeker 11' come highly recommended, esp the 11' Seeker for the jungle pegged venues.

Hi Julian I use mono and not braid . I suppose a new rod is like a new car . Takes time to know how to handle it . Being a new boy on this site , Amazed at the number of replies to this post.With all the different opinions people have . Again a bit like the cars we own we all have our preference . Hope to fish the Teme shortly and see if I have learnt any thing from Trefors book . So will update how I get on with the rod
 
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