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New Rod builds.

Mark tunley has his own full range of Harrison rods in dark carbon and his rod tip isotopes are the sleekest neatest ive ever seen you struggle to see where they start and end.

Hi Richard,

Are Mark's rod tip isotopes similar to Bob's 'Isoblobs'. Do you have a photo of one? I can't see them on his website.

Thanks,

Andy
 
Hi Richard,

Are Mark's rod tip isotopes similar to Bob's 'Isoblobs'. Do you have a photo of one? I can't see them on his website.

Thanks,

Andy
No they are different to the isoblob.
They look a bit like Dave lumbs .... ie done in shrink tube but he doesn’t bulk whip over the ends. It’s whipped up to the tube and sealed with clear coat.
It’s a lovely job because the blank blends so beautifully into the tube that you need to get close to notice the tube is even there.

On his custom build bit he gives the option of isotopes but no picture
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I’m not a huge fan of Alps real seats I’ve been looking at them this evening and thought they looked a little ott and odd. They aren’t very subtle things I definitely prefer the cheaper DPS or KDPS from Fuji.
 
No they are different to the isoblob.
They look a bit like Dave lumbs .... ie done in shrink tube but he doesn’t bulk whip over the ends. It’s whipped up to the tube and sealed with clear coat.
It’s a lovely job because the blank blends so beautifully into the tube that you need to get close to notice the tube is even there.

On his custom build bit he gives the option of isotopes but no picture
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I find the isotopes that are fixed parralel to the tips are rather difficult to see. The Drennan angled system for me is better , what do you think Richard?
 
I find the isotopes that are fixed parralel to the tips are rather difficult to see. The Drennan angled system for me is better , what do you think Richard?
Definitely a standing isotope like on the drennan or enterprise systems stands out clearer.
I was put off them once on a night session where the line had gone over it or rapped round it and I hadn’t realised.
I ended up casting it in the river.
The laying down isotopes are much bigger at 25x3mm to compensate for not been as visible as the standing Drennans at 12x2.5mm
 
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When I whipped the isotopes on my rod tips I put a small length of light reactive plastic(off an old illuminous bobbin) under the isotope making it just that bit more visible,a bit fiddly but works ok 👍
 
Definitely a standing isotope like on the drennan or enterprise systems stands out clearer.
I was put off them once on a night session where the line had gone over it or rapped round it and I hadn’t realised.
I ended up casting it in the river.
The laying down isotopes are much bigger at 25x3mm to compensate for not been as visible as the standing Drennans at 12x2.5mm
Keep banging on about my old Torrix I know...but 'Bob the Rod' custom built it for the previous owner and he fixed a length of tubing to the tip, (about 2'' from the end ring) and secured the tubing at a 45 degree angle. A recipe for problems you would think!!! but NEVER!! (that's done it) had a problem with fouling, and yet I do with the Drennan system. I guess the flexible nature of the tubing is the reason? These small details can be a big problem as we all know...
 
Keep banging on about my old Torrix I know...but 'Bob the Rod' custom built it for the previous owner and he fixed a length of tubing to the tip, (about 2'' from the end ring) and secured the tubing at a 45 degree angle. A recipe for problems you would think!!! but NEVER!! (that's done it) had a problem with fouling, and yet I do with the Drennan system. I guess the flexible nature of the tubing is the reason? These small details can be a big problem as we all know...
It makes sense that does. I’d imagine it’s probably working similar to an antifrap tip ring.
On the occasional time the line goes round as you say the tubes flexibility just lets it go.

Line will get caught round them in the flat position too. They do on mine occasionally too. But at least I’m not launching them in the river anymore. That’s quite heartbreaking🤣
 
Keep banging on about my old Torrix I know...but 'Bob the Rod' custom built it for the previous owner and he fixed a length of tubing to the tip, (about 2'' from the end ring) and secured the tubing at a 45 degree angle. A recipe for problems you would think!!! but NEVER!! (that's done it) had a problem with fouling, and yet I do with the Drennan system. I guess the flexible nature of the tubing is the reason? These small details can be a big problem as we all know...
I have something on similar lines regarding flexible tubing I made mine from old quivertips and put screw in tip rings on my rods never gets caught up because of the flexibility
 

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I've always had concerns about rod damage and crack-offs from line capture on the cast. Especially when launching 6-8 ounce of feeder distances on the big rivers. I've weighed up the pros and cons of using betalights and just avoid. Sight, feel and vibration (and at times Delkim on extreme low volume) does it for me.
 
I can recommend Chris Ward he has built one rod for me and done several rebuilds and repairs on some of my older Harrison rods, a true craftsman.
 
Ghastly, Mark.......at least, it's not for me. I prefer a cork handle and consider the beauty of a rod to be in its action/feel rather that how it looks. There, I've said it - I'm a standard build chap.

Same with cars - I prefer them to stay as they were when they came out of the factory. :)
 
Just my two penneth, try & use a rod builder who will be able to offer you some back up further down the line. I had 2 torrix rods built for use on the Trent maybe 7 years back paid about 700 quid for the pair. Anyway a couple of years back I slipped on the rocks going down to my peg & knocked myself out. When I came round I found I'd snapped the butt section on one of my beloved rods. So I rang the said rod builder only to be told he couldn't help me he'd retired.. So now I have one Torrix even with my name on the blank. Bought myself a couple of Century rods off the peg, at least if I break one I can still buy the replacement..
 
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