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Moving baits.

Julian Griffiths

Julian Griffiths

Senior Member & Supporter
Hi.
I'd like to have a try at trundling a moving bait. Especially as there's loads of leaves entering the river at the moment.

I've used swan shot in the past, but would now like to use putty or the like, as I feel it will allow me to fine tune the weight.

Do you use float stops to grip this weight?

Where can I buy suitable material from?

Cheers
Julian
 
Terry Simner said:
Float stops do stop movement Julian, and Plastercine better than putty IMO. I find leaded hooks are better .. actual lead wire or soldering wire.
Click to expand...
Thanks Terry.

Yes I just brought some soldering wire, now wondering if it need some long shank hooks?
I use to have partridge hooks, but long gone now.
 
I've used a great variety of hooks over the years, even some of those 'bait-holder' hooks with two 'mini barbs' on the shank. Those small barbs (more like nicks in the metal really) tend to hold the wire in place, stopping it ending up at the hook's bend. But you can always use superglue, or even better, 2-pack. If you need more weight, or you're using BIG pieces of meat, then long shank can help.
But my biggest piece of advice would be, always use barbless. If you snap off (and the few inches of line above the hook's eye comes in for a lot of abrasion) then the last thing you want is a fish left swimming around with a big leaded hook in its mouth.
 
I always bury my meat when trundled along the bottom for obvious reasons
I like the idea of solder that’s one for me to try. My method is a BB OR AAA Shot nipped lightly on the line just above the hook knott.
Pull hook and (carefully) shot into a decent sized piece of meat
Secure shank with blade of glass.
Bingo.
Weighted bait!
CE14564D-0FB3-4ACD-936D-3335E5F15630.jpeg
BB3A1058-A729-4F90-A8B1-4C18A154F0FE.jpeg
FD50F020-D955-42DC-9498-7528EA653D57.jpeg
C246B3CE-1895-44B0-A3F8-4B9E464A4A39.jpeg
 
....it stays on better/longer if you use a detachable hook-link and pull said hook-link through the meat loop first, then feed the meat down the line, pulling the hook eye-first into the meat, with just the shank and point of the hook actually in the meat. No stop/grass should usually be necessary then (esp if you use a good solid meat like Tulip Bacon Grill). A chunk of that will last 10-20 casts, even casting into/across streamer weed.
 
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It stays on fine Terry. 10-20 run downs easy and more.
I’ll use detachable hook lengths if I have to but if I don’t all the better. One less link in the chain and one less thing simplifying the tackle further.
Yes the tulip or plumrose meats are the way to go.
 
Richard Isaacs said:
It stays on fine Terry. 10-20 run downs easy and more.
I’ll use detachable hook lengths if I have to but if I don’t all the better. One less link in the chain and one less thing simplifying the tackle further.
Yes the tulip or plumrose meats are the way to go.
Click to expand...
I agree, mostly, but he 'back-threading' method really comes into its own when you want to mount a piece of meat onto a hook which is not much smaller than the size of your bait. Pushing the bend of the hook through such a piece can easily split it. For example, if you want to slow the passage of your bait through a swim you can either a/. increase the weight of your hook or b/. reduce the size of your bait (and the second is easiest/fastest.)
Back-threading is also a great method to use when you've no grass to hand e.g. when you're wading in the middle of a river.
Personally I don't like bait stops ...but I do use grass at times (with small tubes of meat)
 
When I used to roll meat on a particularly suitable reach on the Kennet I'd use one or two big split shot, really big, about 7 grams each, with plastecine added to suit. A nice touch was to add bits of weed to disguise the plastecine. This was on a very fast bit of river. A little extra water and a 3/4oz arsley bomb was perfect.
How should plastecine be spelt? Doesn't look right.
 
Paul Collins said:
When I used to roll meat on a particularly suitable reach on the Kennet I'd use one or two big split shot, really big, about 7 grams each, with plastecine added to suit. A nice touch was to add bits of weed to disguise the plastecine. This was on a very fast bit of river. A little extra water and a 3/4oz arsley bomb was perfect.
How should plastecine be spelt? Doesn't look right.
Click to expand...
With a capital 'P' Paul ...as it's a trademarked product, so Mr. Harbutt was at liberty to decide how it should be spelt 🤓
 
Terry Simner said:
I agree, mostly, but he 'back-threading' method really comes into its own when you want to mount a piece of meat onto a hook which is not much smaller than the size of your bait. Pushing the bend of the hook through such a piece can easily split it. For example, if you want to slow the passage of your bait through a swim you can either a/. increase the weight of your hook or b/. reduce the size of your bait (and the second is easiest/fastest.)
Back-threading is also a great method to use when you've no grass to hand e.g. when you're wading in the middle of a river.
Personally I don't like bait stops ...but I do use grass at times (with small tubes of meat)
Click to expand...
Yes you’ve gotta be careful not to split it. Once you’ve done it a few times it becomes second nature and you get a firm feel of it.
Yes your limited to one piece which is all I want in this form of fishing.
I find detachable hook links in this form of fishing a bit of a pain in the arse. Even the smallest most discreet link will pick up weed. It never quite flows in my opinion quite as seamlessly as a straight through set up and then your removing the hook length every time you want to thread on a new piece of meat.
I love the idea of the solder weighted hook. That’s a good one but as for mounting a bait I get on fine going in bend first on a straight through line.
 
Richard Isaacs said:
I always bury my meat when trundled along the bottom for obvious reasons
I like the idea of solder that’s one for me to try. My method is a BB OR AAA Shot nipped lightly on the line just above the hook knott.
Pull hook and (carefully) shot into a decent sized piece of meat
Secure shank with blade of glass.
Bingo.
Weighted bait!
View attachment 12559View attachment 12560View attachment 12561View attachment 12562
Click to expand...


😁 😂😝 That did make me laugh, sorry Richard, i,ll get me coat. 😁🤪👍
 
Terry Simner said:
I've used a great variety of hooks over the years, even some of those 'bait-holder' hooks with two 'mini barbs' on the shank. Those small barbs (more like nicks in the metal really) tend to hold the wire in place, stopping it ending up at the hook's bend. But you can always use superglue, or even better, 2-pack. If you need more weight, or you're using BIG pieces of meat, then long shank can help.
But my biggest piece of advice would be, always use barbless. If you snap off (and the few inches of line above the hook's eye comes in for a lot of abrasion) then the last thing you want is a fish left swimming around with a big leaded hook in its mouth.
Click to expand...
I hear you on the welfare side of thing's Terry. 👍 I'll look at hooks the next time I'm out. Did buy a new style of pallatrax hook that may take wire, but amazingly I found some old partridge hooks that Trefor West marketed with wire on them already!😊
 
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