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Maggot feeder tangling issues.

W

William Taylor

Senior Member
Hello all,

I could use some advice about minimising rig tangles, specifically when fishing maggot feeder.

This year I have fished maggot feeder quite frequently and had some decent results. However, I have had issues with the hook link wrapping itself and getting tangled up around the feeder and the quick change run ring. I fished the Severn 3 times this week and it was a constant issue, reeling in finding everything all twisted and tangled.

My rig consists of a Drennan quick change run ring, to which I attach a black cap or block end feeder then a Drennan swivel stop bead that covers the swivel. My hook link is 8lb mono of about 2-3 feet. I put a section of silicone tubing on my hook link, over the swivel. The tubing is about 5 inches long, I thought a longer section of tubing might kick the hook link out a bit further.

I don't have these issues fishing other baits, hair rigged pellet, boilie or piece of meat etc. However, a comparatively light weight bait such as a bunch of maggots causes me issues.

Any advice guys?
 
I think above suggestions about tangling on retrieve is very likely, as can the feeder rolling across hooklink if it gets lodged by current/leaves in line etc. I used to have same problems but after letting out a bow of line after feathering cast and when reeling in keeping a constant slow retrieve with rod tip low I very rarely get tangles now...korum anti tangle set up is also a winner, good luck.
 
Thanks for the replies chaps.

I hadn't considered the tangle may have been caused on the retrieve. I shall make sure that I feather the line, hopefully that should make a difference.
 
Never get tangles when using this rig, though admittedly I've never used it after barbel, only smaller species.

post-10964-1217837143.jpg
 
A shorter hooklink using snakeskin or similar will also help. I generally use an inline feeder with very short hooklinks for both barbel and tench that is virtually tangle free, but I appreciate you may prefer longer hook links and obviously varying the length is often necessary to get bites.
 
Add a extra bead or two between the feeder and the buffer bead, I find this helps.

I also find purpose made anti-tangle sleeves very effective, they are stiffer than silicon tubing and push the hook link away more.

As has been pointed out, feathering the line is THE key though. Under-arm casting helps too.
 
Joe Winstanley said:
Add a extra bead or two between the feeder and the buffer bead, I find this helps.

I also find purpose made anti-tangle sleeves very effective, they are stiffer than silicon tubing and push the hook link away more.

As has been pointed out, feathering the line is THE key though. Under-arm casting helps too.
Click to expand...

I always under arm, find everything lands in a line and less stress all round, surprising the distance you can get too with practice. Also use anti tangle sleeves, don't get the tangles I used to before these.
 
Another vote for anti tangle sleeves and feathering the cast before impact. Would just add that whatever you opt for, please consider the safety aspect for the fish and ensure that the fish can drop the feeder/weight if the mainline breaks.
 
Give John Robert's anti-tangle booms a try, they make a huge difference for me
 
Many of the match boys in my area use a small swivel on the hook link about a foot from the hook. This seems to stop the twisting of the hook link.
 
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