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Link ledger tips

B

Ben Jennings

Senior Member
Have never tried link ledgering. Have had people tell me to do it when going for chub or barbel, but have never got my head round the moving bait. Do i need to let line put as it goes? What’s the best way to do it? I liken it to the various times i’ve attempted rolling meat, before i know it it’s arched round on a tight line and is sat snagged in the near margin. Any tips would be great fully received. Thanks
 
Hi Ben, I'm no expert but I'll outline how it's worked for me, or at least my interpretation of it.

I've sort of had two approaches to it. The first one has been fishing quite close in, generally where there is little flow, but perhaps on the edge of flow, a slack or eddy. In this case I wouldn't normally be much more than a rod length out and would just be using enough split shot to hold bottom.

The other way has been fishing out in to the river although I have typically only done this on smaller rivers (the Dove being where I enjoyed it most). In this case I would be fishing in much the same way I would with a light bomb or feeder, fishing the edge of a crease. In this case I make sure I am slightly sitting upstream of where I want to fish, using a bow in the line and just enough split shot to hold bottom. I will envisage where I want the bait to settle and cast/ pay out line accordingly. If the bait is instantly swinging in to the near margin then it needs more weight or more of a bow. There comes a point where more bow isn't practical. Some swims just don't lend themselves to the method.

Using the right strength quiver tip helps as well, too much weight on too light a quiver will result in too much of bend (hindering bite detection/ increasing resistance), where as too little weight on too heavy a quiver will increase the chance of the bait dislodging as the tip fails to absorb the pressure.

In short I've found it a combination of getting the right weight, quiver tip and amount of bow in the line. Depending on where you sit and where you are trying to fish will also affect how it settles (or doesn't), I think fishing downstream at about 45degrees has worked for me. Line thickness also makes a difference, thicker line will be pulled out place more easily and require more weight.

That was quite waffly, I am sure someone else will be more concise but some points to think about anyway.
 
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Just thinking about this again, with the rolling meat I would think if it is ending up straight down the near side margin then again it needs more weight or some slack in the line. When the rolling meat is going well you can really feel it slowly trundling along. Loosely, I'd cast 45degrees upstream and expect to work it to about the same downstream, there will be a point where it lifts off the bottom or drags in to the nearside margin.

If starting upstream then I would be taking line as it comes in front of me then letting it out again as it goes downstream.

I've sort of thought about it as having a workable section of the river and anything outside those angles I'll save for another cast from up or downstream (if the access is ok). I'm definitely no expert on it but have found it to be one of the most satisfying ways to catch a barbel when the swim allows.
 
Rather than link ledger I fish a fixed paternoster but some of this will apply. Chub are the cutest fish for feeling resistance and dropping the bait. Especially if they are big and have been caught a few times over the Winter. For Barbel I believe its not so important once they pick up a bait the rod usually whacks round. I never use any fancy links, beads or swivels etc it just adds up to more things to catch up. I like to keep everything simple and easy to set up. If using a mono hook length I tie a loop in the mainline and leave the tag end long and put swan shot on the tag. I then loop to loop on the hook length. If going straight through to the hook I tie a 4 turn water knot with a bit of the same line onto the main line a couple of feet up. I do not pull this knot too tight because I want the knot to just hold, the swan shot go onto the top tag of the knot. For fishing near bank margin swims I have the rod rest low, for far bank swims I raise the rod rest as high as possible and add a slight bow to the line. I am looking to use the lightest tip possible with as small a deflection as possible. I add and remove swan shot according to what just holds bottom. I can, by sliding the water knot up or down the line make the hook length longer or shorter if I need to change the presentation or maybe I need it to drop the bait under a near bank tree a bit further. I try to always hold the rod because single 'pluck' bites can be super fast from wary chub. If I miss a pluck I always reposition the bait. The next time I get a pluck I push the rod towards the bite giving the chub slack. This can often result in a very positive pull round. Though sometimes they will even suss that out and you need to change the bait to something more natural like a lobworm. If upstreaming the rod will be held high on a rest and I tighten up again to a downstream bow in the line. If the bow in your line is below the bait if it dislodges your bait should come down on a straight natural line. I often deliberately dislodge the swan shots to bounce the bait downstream to search the swim. This is done by holding the rod and just pulling the line above the reel against the bow in the line. You will feel the shot dislodge and if you have it balanced correctly hold again quickly. If you realise you are using too much shot when upstreaming you can put a bit more deflection in the tip which will compensate for the extra weight. You are looking for a quick tap and drop back bite if fishing with a bow in your line which always seems more productive for chub. Always sit comfortable and hold your rod if possible to maximise your catch rate and if fishing with a bow in the line try to strike in a long sweep. Hope this makes sense.
 
Hi Ben, my suggestion would be to go on eBay and pick up a used copy of "John Wilson's Coarse fishing method manual". They go for very little money, but are a great way to learn a new technique or just remind you of a method you've not used for years. There is a section on link ledgering and on stret pegging, which I had not done for a long time. A great read no matter how long you have been fishing.
 
Totally agree Mike. I have read numerous books on angling techniques over the years but always return to John Wilson’s Manual and his species specific books. As I read them I can hear his voice in my head.
Excellent description by the way Mark.
 
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Thanks chaps some useful tips there. Did try it today but with the river 6 foot up and really pushing through wasn’t the best idea. will see if i can order a copy of the John Wilson book, always liked his writing.
 
If we are talking link ledger in the true sense, I’ve never personally felt the need to do it and when fishing for both Chub and Perch on rivers. I instead use a free running rig, incorporating both the lightest lead and slow taper quiver tip that I can get away with. For close in work, the quiver tip is always glass.

On the Chub front, this is my standard rig in the photo, with bombs normally between 1/8oz and 1/2oz, for small rivers.

8+ inches above the running clip bead, I place a rig/float stop. If I want to swap over to popped up crust, I slide the rig stop down to lock the lead in place, so that it’s no longer free running. The hooklength is then changed to one of 3” via the Guru quick change adapter and the crust is mounted on the hook.

I’ve caught hundreds upon hundreds of Chub fishing with this flexible rig.
 

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When link ledgering you want your rig balanced against the flow of the river so you are in control,no point in trying to fish it in a raging flood,in such conditions get below a snag or the inside of a bend,cast out,pay out slack line and let it settle,if balanced correctly a lift of the rod or tug of the line will dislodge the rig it will trip bottom for a second or two then hold again.
 
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