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Line choice

Richard Isaacs said:
Fluorocarbon as a main line just sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. It’s springy rigid form makes me think you’ll end up pouring the lot on the bank the moment you crack open the bail.
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High-end fluoros like Seaguar Tatsu, which I use as a mainline for soft plastics when perch fishing, don't do that. However, the line was an expensive gift and I have no idea how it would behave in other styles of fishing.
 
Re GT80 that I use.

Yes. Certainly not the thinnest mono as Richard says but really abrasive resistant to the rocks and sandstone in the Severn and Wye. I would not feel as confident with fluro or braid as a mainline on either river.

Highly recommended.
 
Gardener do seem to be a favourite of most . I'm gonna take on board as to whats been said and give it a go . Again thankyou all .
 
Nicholas Cole said:
Swapped to Technium Black in Jan 19 after reading countless line reviews and used it for both carp and barbel in 10, 12 and 15lb. First impressions were great. Have since binned the three unused spools I have and stripped it off all my reels. Found it to rapidly loose strength and have the abrasion resistance of wet bog roll. Got cut off on lakes where I've never had a cut off before nor since changing line.
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Maybe you just had a bad batch? Been using it for years now in very snag infested swims and for big river carp. Never had any issues but once you lose confidence in something then you never use it again.
 
I've been using Korum mono in various breaking strains the last few years for barbel and tench. I first started using it in 15 lb bs for pike on the spate rivers and big reservoirs. It has never let me down. Good knot strength and abrasion resistance. In recent years also in 15 for the barbel. Again, I've never been let down by it and it's helped me out of some sticky situations playing big fish in flood conditions. I don't use braid other than for lure fishing. Generally the abrasion resistance is a lot poorer than mono. Not ideal in rivers where snags can be common place.
 
Daiwa hyper sensor ,and fox torque, standing up to the rigors of the rocky section of the trent quite well , nearly always use a good braid hooklength .
 
Richard Isaacs said:
Fluorocarbon as a main line just sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. It’s springy rigid form makes me think you’ll end up pouring the lot on the bank the moment you crack open the bail.
personally as far as barbel lines are concerned I don’t think you’ll go far wrong with any of the recommendations above. Gardener GR60 or GT80 are very much tried and tested barbel lines. They ain’t the thinnest Diameter out there but they are very reliable, great on abrasion and knott well. ESP is another that used to always perform well. Dunno what it’s like now but it always was a good main line. Ghost line is meant to be very good. I can’t comment on it myself but I’ve been told from people who have used it that you’d struggle to bust it in your hands after running up a brick.
I’ve tried a good few out and to be honest I revert back to good ol gardener gr60. Very reliable line indeed
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As said it does seem to be a favourite of most . A little concerned with the diameter , one of the few things that drew to fluorocarbon being it's low diameter . Having said that i am gonna give the Gardner a go , have read some good reviews elsewhere too . Thanks for taking the time to post .
 
Ady Brayshaw said:
I've been using Korum mono in various breaking strains the last few years for barbel and tench. I first started using it in 15 lb bs for pike on the spate rivers and big reservoirs. It has never let me down. Good knot strength and abrasion resistance. In recent years also in 15 for the barbel. Again, I've never been let down by it and it's helped me out of some sticky situations playing big fish in flood conditions. I don't use braid other than for lure fishing. Generally the abrasion resistance is a lot poorer than mono. Not ideal in rivers where snags can be common place.
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Thanks for that pal
 
GR60 for me, every day of the week. So strong and abrasion resistant. I bent a strong hook out on my last session pulling out of a snag!

DO NOT touch GR60X! It's nice and supple but incredibly weak and prone to damage. It cost me fish in the short time I used it. Back on good old GR60 now.
 
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Jameel Khan said:
As said it does seem to be a favourite of most . A little concerned with the diameter , one of the few things that drew to fluorocarbon being it's low diameter . Having said that i am gonna give the Gardner a go , have read some good reviews elsewhere too . Thanks for taking the time to post .
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Don’t worry about the line diameter. It’s really not a priority for barbel fishing. Remember that main line is going to be anywhere between 2 and 5 feet from the bait in most peoples cases so really not an issue.
the GR60 is very much one of those lines that’s proved it’s worth and that’s ultimately the key. Just like Bait you put on your hook lines and end tackle require confidence too.
 
BTW ... as a general rule, within a 'line type' (i.e. mono, fluoro, braid), the lower the diameter the lower the abrasion resistance (you don't get owt for nowt). Plus, with lower diameter lines, whilst their 'breaking strains' may be the same as standard diameter lines, their 'snap resistance' may be different. That is, if a line gets its low diameter from being pre-stretched, it obviously has less 'give'. So a nightmare scenario would be : using braid mainline, and a pre-stretched hook-link material (especially with a fast-action rod :eek: ).
 
Terry Simner said:
BTW ... as a general rule, within a 'line type' (i.e. mono, fluoro, braid), the lower the diameter the lower the abrasion resistance (you don't get owt for nowt). Plus, with lower diameter lines, whilst their 'breaking strains' may be the same as standard diameter lines, their 'snap resistance' may be different. That is, if a line gets its low diameter from being pre-stretched, it obviously has less 'give'. So a nightmare scenario would be : using braid mainline, and a pre-stretched hook-link material (especially with a fast-action rod :eek: ).
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Good point and well made, Terry. I use a through-action rod on smaller rivers with braid all the way through (different mainline and hook length).
 
Peter Hayes said:
Where do you get your Bass Pro from in the UK? Trefor West put me onto it years ago and I try to get it whenever I can.
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Had mine for a few years now but if memory serves me right i ordered from them direct.
 
I loaded up with ESP Syncro in 12lb bs back in June and have had no issues whatsoever. Good memory and strength. I don’t use flouro mainline, as I don’t think it’s necessary for my style of fishing (long-ish hooklengths and/or backleads), and there’s the cost factor. I know a couple of carpy types that use flouro and respool 2-3 times a season due to concerns about light exposure, abrasion and general deterioration. I’d imagine the abrasion factor is accentuated when using in flowing water, with debris hitting the line, etc and most riverbeds not being especially line friendly... Depends on your river and how often you go, I suppose.

I use Korum Reel Line in 8lb bs for my Tench and Chub work. Also very good, even without the Sci Fi name or packaging. Fairly priced too.
 
Alex Warren said:
I loaded up with ESP Syncro in 12lb bs back in June and have had no issues whatsoever.
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I have the 'ESP Syncro XT Loaded' in 15lb on my 3 x rod carp set up, have to say it has been great line for all types of fishing, from close in slack margin work and long range tight clutch work. On my 2 x rod carp set up I have 'Berkeley CM70', thought i'd hate that because as I spooled it on it just felt thick and wiry for the b/s, but having used it for a while I really can't complain about it. Also 'Berkeley CM90' gets good reviews. End of the day there is too much choice! 😅
 
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