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JW Young - servicing?

Roger Pearman

Senior Member
Over the past month or so I’ve acquired a JW Young River Specialist and John Wilson (now Heritage) from members of this forum.

Whilst they are both in good condition I’d like them serviced before they are pressed into use.

I hear good things about servicing via JW Youngs but what is the typical price to pay for the service? (I accept that some costs will vary)
 
I would advise you to service the reels yourself... remove the spool, wipe it over with a clean damp cloth or a wet wipe. Wipe it dry, or better still borrow your wifes hairdryer and blow dry the reel so it gets very warm to evapourate any water.
Once that is done simply add sewing machine oil to the handles, the ratchet, onto the spindles and into the housing. Wipe off the excess and your done.
I usually do that after every fishing session, for the 5 mins it takes it's a no brainer.
 
As said above unless there is something wrong with them a centrepin service is about as simple as it gets. I remove the spool and spend some time getting in all the little gaps with a wet wipe to simply clean it right out I remove the springs and pawls too and clean behind them

Use an old toothbrush to get between all the teeth on the gear and give it a good clean out.
Then sewing machine or hair clipper oil on the check pivot points, the pin itself and behind the handles.
A tiny dab of silicone grease on the gear.
I don’t oil the bearings if they are sealed units I have always found this to have a negative effect on their operation.
 
Thanks Ian. I may do so. Is it easy enough to replace bearings on these models too?
In 95% of cases where people believe they need to replace them it’s not the case.
The system or design is flawed in these pins and while they work just fine, for a bearing to run correctly it needs to be fixed on both the outside diameter and inside diameter. This will ensure the only movement it can possibly carry out is circumferential but because we slide these bearings down the pin, there has to be some clearance there. You will feel this clearance through spinning your reel in the form of light knocks or slight vibration, maybe even a little excessive noise but because it’s not fixed to the pin and there is an interference gap there (albeit small) there’s no getting away from the fact that you’ll hear and feel more than you would if those bearings were fixed to the shaft and housing.
Yes they are not too bad to change out but it’s probably not going to have any positive effects. The chances are your reels are in perfect condition.
 
Thanks Ian. I may do so. Is it easy enough to replace bearings on these models too?

Be very careful attempting this on a Youngs pin, as it turned into a mare for me. Depending on the model, the bearings are held in place by a circlip, which was difficult to remove. Once removed and bearings replaced, I just couldn’t refit a new circlip; tried all sorts and in the end I had to send it to Gary Mills to sort it.

Also to echo some of what Richard says above, I originally changed the bearings due to perceived noise from them. New bearings fitted and it still didn’t run quietly!
 
Two of my young’s pin have the noise as well, I was thinking to replace them but after talking to a few guys who know these things, they convinced me nothing wrong with them and they work just fine.
 
The bearings in the reels when they built here in Redditch were pressed fit into place (doubt the design changed after masterline ownership though), you won't easily replace them without the correct tools. The big bottom bearing was also held into place with a locking nut which was adjusted to place the correct amount of pressure on the bearing, too much and it would slow the spool down. Old bearings will still run, they will just be a bit noisy and rumble a bit. But replacement is not something I'd advise you trying at home.

The spindles were also hand polished on the lathe before fitting so the bearings just about had a little grip on them.

When we had a reel in for service it was wiped down clean with a cloth, then the check pawl was greased, as was the little groove in the spindle where the release latch would run. Spindles were given a light drip or 2 of very light oil. At home the most similar oil you might find was light sewing machine oil. New check pawl and springs were fitted.

Anything further like handle replacement if seized etc was done.

If you're not sure just send them to Garry Mills.
 
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