Isoblob isotope replacement

[Ian Murfin]

God knows how, but somehow I've gone and cracked the isotope on my ipower. Has anyone got any tips on how best to remove and replace it.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

View attachment 19710
God knows how, but somehow I've gone and cracked the isotope on my ipower. Has anyone got any tips on how best to remove and replace it.

I’d be asking the man who put it there in the first place if he’s got any suggestions @Bob Gill

I wonder if a light bit of heat on the blob would soften it enough to remove the isotope replace it With a coat of rod builders epoxy over the top Bob will know for sure

 

[Mark Pevy]

I’d be asking the man who put it there in the first place if he’s got any suggestions @Bob Gill

I wonder if a light bit of heat on the blob would soften it enough to remove the isotope replace it With a coat of rod builders epoxy over the top Bob will know for sure

Yeah bobs your man

 

[Ian Murfin]

I’d be asking the man who put it there in the first place if he’s got any suggestions @Bob Gill

I wonder if a light bit of heat on the blob would soften it enough to remove the isotope replace it With a coat of rod builders epoxy over the top Bob will know for sure

Yes, fingers crossed @Bob Gill will be along with some advice for me. I figured I'd post rather than trouble Bob directly in case any one else had been in the same pickle.

Rich are you still doing reel repairs? I have a Adcock Stanton that could do with a new bearing.

 

[Bob Gill]

Hi Ian,
It is possible to do a repair, I've done quite a few in the past.
From the photograph, it appears that you have a large 4 x 20 mm isotope and these ceased being manufactured some time back.
However, it is possible to remove what remains of the broken isotope by carefully warming the area and then attempting to pick it out as cleanly as possible from the main parent material of the blob. Try to minimise removal of main body 'blob' material.

A couple of precautions - the isotope envelope is glass so wear both eye and hand/finger/flesh protection - i.e. goggles and gloves.

Further warming with a lighter can further soften the process. Avoid heat on the actual blank itself, as this can lead to weakening the blank.

Replace the isotope with a suitable sized one and fix with clear epoxy resin.

Let me know how you get on. I have a small number of the 4x20 isotopes - but these are past their best but still possess a reasonable glow.

Cheers and good luck,
Bob

PS Been meaning to resurrect a newer version of the blob when time permits.

 

[Ian Murfin]

Thanks for the info Bob, very useful. I'll let you know how I get on. Sounds like I'm best to wait until after the 16th just in case things don't go to plan.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Hi Ian,
It is possible to do a repair, I've done quite a few in the past.
From the photograph, it appears that you have a large 4 x 20 mm isotope and these ceased being manufactured some time back.
However, it is possible to remove what remains of the broken isotope by carefully warming the area and then attempting to pick it out as cleanly as possible from the main parent material of the blob. Try to minimise removal of main body 'blob' material.

A couple of precautions - the isotope envelope is glass so wear both eye and hand/finger/flesh protection - i.e. goggles and gloves.

Further warming with a lighter can further soften the process. Avoid heat on the actual blank itself, as this can lead to weakening the blank.

Replace the isotope with a suitable sized one and fix with clear epoxy resin.

Let me know how you get on. I have a small number of the 4x20 isotopes - but these are past their best but still possess a reasonable glow.

Cheers and good luck,
Bob

PS Been meaning to resurrect a newer version of the blob when time permits.

I got it right surprisingly then bob. That’s exactly how I thought it would be done but wasn’t entirely sure… quality. Would a gentle flash over with a heat gun be safer or the lighter?

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Yes, fingers crossed @Bob Gill will be along with some advice for me. I figured I'd post rather than trouble Bob directly in case any one else had been in the same pickle.

Rich are you still doing reel repairs? I have a Adcock Stanton that could do with a new bearing.

I’ve never done reel repairs Ian as I simply don’t stock spare parts but I’ll happily carry out servicing work on reels. If you can obtain the correct bearing(s) I’ll fit them for ya mate no problem

 

[Bob Gill]

I got it right surprisingly then bob. That’s exactly how I thought it would be done but wasn’t entirely sure… quality. Would a gentle flash over with a heat gun be safer or the lighter?

Yes, Rich, but was thinking of what Ian was likely to have easy access to.
For the record I have some quite nice variable heat guns - one with scan temperature control which can be used relatively safely for sensitive jobs. However, have the done the procedure several times with a lighter or micro-torch.

Cheers
Bob

 

[Ian Murfin]

I’ve never done reel repairs Ian as I simply don’t stock spare parts but I’ll happily carry out servicing work on reels. If you can obtain the correct bearing(s) I’ll fit them for ya mate no problem

OK got you Rich. I'll see if I can figure out what is needed and where to get them and get back to you.

 

[Ian Murfin]

Yes, Rich, but was thinking of what Ian was likely to have easy access to.
For the record I have some quite nice variable heat guns - one with scan temperature control which can be used relatively safely for sensitive jobs. However, have the done the procedure several times with a lighter or micro-torch.

Cheers
Bob

Thanks, sounds like a micro torch or turbo flame lighter will be the way to go

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Thanks, sounds like a micro torch or turbo flame lighter will be the way to go

Be really careful if you are using a localised heat source. If you get it too hot you’ll knacker the resins in the carbon and completely wreck the rod. Personally I’d borrow a heat gun if you haven’t got one and gently warm it up