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Hooklinks again

M

Mark Evans 2

Senior Member & Supporter
Hi guys, during my sessions I'm messing around trying different hooklinks too much rather than just sticking with one. So, what's the general choice?

Braid
Coated braid (tungsten coated too)
Mono
Fluoro

And what sort of lengths? I try long ones just because that's what I've read but I don't get the point cause if I've found a clear spot then a long hooklink could be in weed.

And if you use braid or coated braid, would you change in low clear conditions?
 
Thanks guys,

I'm currently using Drennan Gravel braid but then today with the W.Avon very low and clear I wondered if I should be using fluoro even though I'm not a big fan of it.

My hooklinks are coming down to 18 inches or less too.
 
I use combi rigs, flouro/braid, for the majority of my fishing. However in snaggy pegs I use coated braid. Hook lengths, in the past I used 4-5 ft lengths, but know I use 2 ft.
 
A lot of advice is given to use long hook lengths, 3 to 4 ft being the norm. The reasoning that fish will spook from a lead or feeder, and in that I get it, but for me I prefer to use as little parafanalia on the business end as possible, a simple running rig with a anti tangle sleeve with a quick change clip to a lead or feeder. I normally have a 18 '' flouru hooklengths.
In clear low conditions it is important to moreso to consider presentation, the Warks Avon is my local too and very often bites only come in a very short period at dusk in summer, that's true of most rivers but especially here.
I use link legers more than ever and moving the lengths to suit, keep the rod tip low and wafting bait sich as bread will often get bites.
As said for me light quiver tip methods in these conditions are much more enjoyable.
 
I generally use coated braid at night - Korda Dark Matter or TA Tungskin.

When day fishing, I’ve been using Asso Oblivion trace line. It’s a memory free, mono hooklength material highly rated amongst sea anglers.
 
Mark Evans 2 said:
Hi guys, during my sessions I'm messing around trying different hooklinks too much rather than just sticking with one. So, what's the general choice?

Braid
Coated braid (tungsten coated too)
Mono
Fluoro

And what sort of lengths? I try long ones just because that's what I've read but I don't get the point cause if I've found a clear spot then a long hooklink could be in weed.

And if you use braid or coated braid, would you change in low clear conditions?
Click to expand...
Are you struggling for bites?
If so you might need to also consider hook and bait size , especially in low clear water
I’ve used loads of hooklink material and have settled on Dave Harrell pro-rig in 0.26(13-8lb)
It’s a good quality mono.
There are lighter sizes but that suits me and I’m normally fishing in at least 8ft of water that is rarely gin clear
I pre tie all hooklinks at 900mm-1m and start at that - that gives me a decent distance between the bait and feeder
If I’m missing bites , I’ll shorten it to say 500mm and will go as short as I need to within reason
If I’m not getting any bites I might go even longer - especially if there is some pace in the river
You could apply the same principle to any material but would get expensive with braid and I find I get more tangles with braid especially supple ones if I don’t use a pva sausage on the hook
I have no issues using Fluro either providing you straighten it out but really depends on how you’re fishing
I fish with naturals a lot at this time of year so I’m not too concerned with a mono line ‘ fluttering ‘ a little in the current as maggots / castors will be moving through the water
If I want to pin a boilie to the deck I’ll use fluorocarbon or a combi rig even with a bit of putty etc
All my mates fish various braids but they all tend to fish pellet/ meat/ boilie and We all catch , it’s simply a case of finding out what works on the day and what you’re confident in but good mono does work
 
Been using the new Korum coated braid last season and really rate it, supple, low diameter and seems very abrasion resistant in 15Ib. Or I’ll just use mono, lengths vary depending on situation but anything from 6” to 2ft
 
Paul Richardson said:
Are you struggling for bites?
If so you might need to also consider hook and bait size , especially in low clear water
I’ve used loads of hooklink material and have settled on Dave Harrell pro-rig in 0.26(13-8lb)
It’s a good quality mono.
There are lighter sizes but that suits me and I’m normally fishing in at least 8ft of water that is rarely gin clear
I pre tie all hooklinks at 900mm-1m and start at that - that gives me a decent distance between the bait and feeder
If I’m missing bites , I’ll shorten it to say 500mm and will go as short as I need to within reason
If I’m not getting any bites I might go even longer - especially if there is some pace in the river
You could apply the same principle to any material but would get expensive with braid and I find I get more tangles with braid especially supple ones if I don’t use a pva sausage on the hook
I have no issues using Fluro either providing you straighten it out but really depends on how you’re fishing
I fish with naturals a lot at this time of year so I’m not too concerned with a mono line ‘ fluttering ‘ a little in the current as maggots / castors will be moving through the water
If I want to pin a boilie to the deck I’ll use fluorocarbon or a combi rig even with a bit of putty etc
All my mates fish various braids but they all tend to fish pellet/ meat/ boilie and We all catch , it’s simply a case of finding out what works on the day and what you’re confident in but good mono does work
Click to expand...
I fish the W.Avon at Barton and it's a tough stretch for Barbel I think, and I can only fish mornings so I don't think that is an optimum time either. I'm using a mixture of hookbaits, 8 and 14mm dumbbells, the dynamite baits busters and various boilies. I can manage a few chub but the barbel might just not be there

What happens is I then start questioning my hooklinks etc and start chopping and changing and spend more time fiddling than fishing. I just need to settle on one and be done with it. It also means I can cut down on the amount of end tackle in the box, get rid of unnecessary clutter and just have what I actually need.
 
Mark Evans 2 said:
Hi guys, during my sessions I'm messing around trying different hooklinks too much rather than just sticking with one. So, what's the general choice?

Braid
Coated braid (tungsten coated too)
Mono
Fluoro

And what sort of lengths? I try long ones just because that's what I've read but I don't get the point cause if I've found a clear spot then a long hooklink could be in weed.

And if you use braid or coated braid, would you change in low clear conditions?
Click to expand...
Ive been using preston reflo power for years,.24 and 11lb usually 2-4ft lengths, and for £6:99 per 100m is great value,i dont like to faff about and its served me well,mind you i haven't been catching a great deal lately, but the severn seems to be quite hard recently ☹
 
To be honest , I think it is easy to wildly over think this whole subject especially when struggling to catch Barbel . Barbel are not the brightest of fish that swim in our rivers , if they are present and feeding I honestly don't think it makes a huge difference what end rig you use . I don't see the point of combi rigs ,with coated braids and stripped back this and that,bits of putty , swivels , clips etc etc . In essence with these complex rigs you have more knots , which are always the weakest link therefore more chances of losing a fish should you hook one , keep it simple . Braid is well known to be unreliable in terms of stated breaking strain and tangles easily . From my experience the one thing that does spook Barbel is them hitting a tight mainline , fishing a longer distance between hook and lead may reduce this occurence as might the use of a back lead ,beyond that if Barbel are present and feeding they will , eventually take your bait , especially in turbid water . In clear water there may be an argument for camouflaging rigs . Decent mono, a sharp hook and not to short a distance between hook and lead will prove effective enough . As to bait , again I don' think it really matters , Barbel have catholic tastes and will eat almost anything if in the mood
 
Mark Evans 2 said:
I fish the W.Avon at Barton and it's a tough stretch for Barbel I think, and I can only fish mornings so I don't think that is an optimum time either. I'm using a mixture of hookbaits, 8 and 14mm dumbbells, the dynamite baits busters and various boilies. I can manage a few chub but the barbel might just not be there

What happens is I then start questioning my hooklinks etc and start chopping and changing and spend more time fiddling than fishing. I just need to settle on one and be done with it. It also means I can cut down on the amount of end tackle in the box, get rid of unnecessary clutter and just have what I actually need.
Click to expand...
Been there and got that t shirt Mark
I am a serial tinkerer
IMHO Chub are harder to catch than barbel so your tactics seem sound enough.
It’s a well used phrase but so true
“ you can only catch what’s in front of you”
Maybe try different feeding techniques? Getting that right can make a big difference, but alas there isn't a one-size fits all solution.
Setting the table and sitting on your hands can be very effective, but I personally adopt a more little and often approach when it's warmer and at the weekend I knew I had fish in the stretch but it took a good 90 minutes to get a bite, despite casting a small feeder every 5 minutes, but once they moved in it was good fishing
Time of day can be very relevant. I fish a stretch that dies in the “ magic hour”, rarely produces after dark , is slow early morning but can fish its head off from breakfast to teatime!!
You might have barbel resident or moving through your swim but for whatever reason you’re missing the feeding window?
Once you crack the watercraft, the hooklinks will be way less of a distraction.
 
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