• You need to be a registered member of Barbel Fishing World to post on these forums. Some of the forums are hidden from non-members. Please refer to the instructions on the ‘Register’ page for details of how to join the new incarnation of BFW...

Float rod comparison Free Spirit vs Drennan

Scott Emery

Senior Member & Supporter
Hi all,

New member here. I'm considering either a Free Spirit High S Special Power float or a Drennan Acolyte Specimen float (both in 15ft). I've read good things about both but is there a very noticeable difference in feel, quality, power etc between the two, considering the price difference. I'd be fishing small/medium rivers for barbel and chub and want the rod length for staying on top of float as much as possible, rather than for casting distance.

Has anyone tried both of them?

Thanks
 
Hi all,

New member here. I'm considering either a Free Spirit High S Special Power float or a Drennan Acolyte Specimen float (both in 15ft). I've read good things about both but is there a very noticeable difference in feel, quality, power etc between the two, considering the price difference. I'd be fishing small/medium rivers for barbel and chub and want the rod length for staying on top of float as much as possible, rather than for casting distance.

Has anyone tried both of them?

Thanks
The new version of the hi s is quite soft in action especially compared to the original version and also compared to the acolyte specimen
They’ll both land big fish no problem it’s just the hi s will bend a lot more, so that very much depends on what you’ll prefer when playing a big fish.

Regarding for trotting a float I’d choose the drennan. It’s rigidity will make line mending and distance striking much better at the job
 
I have both. For my money, the FS is not as powerful as I expected. It's also a bit more through actioned than I like for a trotting rod. As things stand, I intend to use the Acolyte Specimen for trotting and the FS for stillwater Waggler. However, that may change as I've yet to try the Drennan on stillwater. I suspect that FS won't be entirely thrilled that Drennan have stolen their thunder somewhat.
 
However, that may change as I've yet to try the Drennan on stillwater.
It would definitely be worth doing, particularly if there is carp about.
Just so you can get an idea of what it’s like with something pulling back. I’ve used a friends and had a couple chub on it which it felt rather over gunned with imo.
 
Thanks Chris, more good info. Just what I was looking for. Looks like I'll go for the Drennan and save a bit of money too. Bonus.
 
I have the original FS 15ft Hi-S (not the latest one with the eva above the reel seat) and recently bought the Drennan Specimen in the same length (it's the one Richard had a go with). So far I have only used it for chub fishing and it appears to be more "tippy" than the FS. It is lighter that the FS but I don't consider that a major factor as I feel balance once a reel is on is more important.

Once the new season starts I will be able to do a side by side comparison and the test will be when I get a barbel heading in the direction of a snag and I need to put on some pressure. June 16th cannot come quick enough!
 
I can vouch for the drennan rods capabilities as a rod to trott for barbel with. I have had mostly small barbel with a few 5 to 7lbers and one at around 10lbs. Ok, they arn't big fish, but after catching those fish I could tell the rod will be good for larger specimens also.
Hit and hold situations, I can't comment on how it copes with those as I haven't used it in a hit and hold swim yet.
I own one of the latest his S power float rods in 12ft and i've been loaned a friends older his S power carp float rod. The modern 12 footer is a soft action when pressure is put on it and hasn't enough backbone for me, the older carp float rod is very powerful, but also very heavy in the hand, still very useable though.
IMO, for trotting a float for any species the drennan specimen float rods are in front by a country mile...jmo mind.
 
Funny to read about rod power and backbone, as if the one necessarily contributes to the other. There's a very good video of Mark Tunley circulating, where he explains how a rod that might be thought of as 'soft', or through-actioned, is best for playing specimen fish. He argues that a 'softer' rod is hard on the fish, but easy on the angler. Whereas a rod that most would consider more powerful (stiffer and with plenty of 'backbone') is harder on the angler and easier on the fish... in other words, less efficient all round.

Worth viewing, and of course, he explains it far better than me. If you scroll down his videos, its one of these - leverage, action or test curves (can't remember which exactly):

Screenshot 2024-04-03 at 15.13.09.png

.
 
Funny to read about rod power and backbone, as if the one necessarily contributes to the other. There's a very good video of Mark Tunley circulating, where he explains how a rod that might be thought of as 'soft', or through-actioned, is best for playing specimen fish. He argues that a 'softer' rod is hard on the fish, but easy on the angler. Whereas a rod that most would consider more powerful (stiffer and with plenty of 'backbone') is harder on the angler and easier on the fish... in other words, less efficient all round.

Worth viewing, and of course, he explains it far better than me. If you scroll down his videos, its one of these - leverage, action or test curves (can't remember which exactly):

View attachment 29239
.
This is just down to physics and leverage.
A softer rod when bent right over becomes a very short lever for the fish the pull against so for you it feels soft and relatively pressure free. To the fish it’s going to be the opposite. While it’s a simple thing to understand, it’s very surprising, how many anglers believe the opposite and think a broom handle type rod is more powerful and applies more pressure where as the reality is it applies substantially less.
 
I've seen Mark Tunleys video, but in reality in a fishing scenario I don't think it works as he says.
From my own personal practicle experience I can stop a fish from reaching a snag with a stiffer rod much better than if using a soft through actioned rod. A soft actioned rod allows more leaway for the fish to get into the snag by the extra bend the longer the rod the more leaway you give to the fish.
Once a through action rod has bent round I don't think you have any control of a powerful fish.....imo.
I want a rod to have enough stiffness/power to enable me to control the species of fish i'm fishing for and in the conditions where they are.
 
I've seen Mark Tunleys video, but in reality in a fishing scenario I don't think it works as he says.
From my own personal practicle experience I can stop a fish from reaching a snag with a stiffer rod much better than if using a soft through actioned rod. A soft actioned rod allows more leaway for the fish to get into the snag by the extra bend the longer the rod the more leaway you give to the fish.
Once a through action rod has bent round I don't think you have any control of a powerful fish.....imo.
I want a rod to have enough stiffness/power to enable me to control the species of fish i'm fishing for and in the conditions where they are.
The concept is bang on even in a fishing situation but you need to have both rods being compared at lock up point. Then and only then does the shorter lever give more control and unarguably apply more pressure.

I can absolutely with no question or doubt, stop an angry barbel heading for a snag on a fully locked up full through action rod a lot easier than a fully locked up tip action rod.

But …… through action rods don’t make good trotting rod imo so I like stiffness through the middle sections too. Hitting bites at range and line mending isn’t a lot of fun on a soft float rod.
 
Yet you hear it all the while though, Richard - plenty of power lower down when you need it. The angler feels that as power, but the fish doesn't.
Was in India once and one night went out in a coracle to retrieve a lead that was snagged for another angler. Having managed to get the terminal tackle back I said pull me back in. Despite being armed with the sturdiest mahseer fishing tackle, it was difficult to perceive any pressure at all.
 
I remember the late Keith Speers talking about his (by design) 17lb winter caught float fished barbel. I seem to recall him saying something along the lines, that he wasn't unduly concerned about the power of the fish overpowering his setup, & that he calmly played the fish up and down the swim not angering it by pulling its head off to get it in the net, & that by playing it in that controlled manner & keeping a calm head on, he felt confident in being able to land it. Which he did. And other fish of good size too.

I can only say on a handful of times whilst I was after chub, I've caught barbel just shy of 13lb using 4lb mainline 3lb hooklink to a size 18 hook.
It was a Drennan medium feeder rod fished in flooded conditions. By not bullying the fish, it's amazing what you can achieve with a light well balanced rod.

For what it's worth that's just my thoughts & experiences, when faced with accidental captures of large fish I hadn't set out to catch.

I'm a Drennan man through & though especially the older rod ranges. The acolytes do look nice & well balanced! 😊
 
Last edited:
The concept is bang on even in a fishing situation but you need to have both rods being compared at lock up point. Then and only then does the shorter lever give more control and unarguably apply more pressure.

I disagree with that completely.
Once a rod has locked up the next stage is a snapped rod anyhow.

A softer rod bends round faster and easier than a stiffer rod, so that will allow a fish to get into a snag much easier than a stiffer rod that doesn't bend so easy.


I remember Keith speer talking about his (by design) 17lb winter caught float fished barbel. I seem to recall him saying something along the lines, that he wasn't unduly concerned about the power of the fish overpowering his setup, & that he calmly played the fish up and down the swim not angering it by pulling its head off to get it in the net, & that by playing it in that controlled manner & keeping a calm head on, he felt confident in being able to land it. Which he did. And other fish of good size too.

I can only say on a handful of times whilst I was after chub, I've caught barbel just shy of 13lb using 4lb mainline 3lb hooklink to a size 18 hook.
It was a Drennan medium feeder rod fished in flooded conditions. By not bullying the fish, it's amazing what you can achieve with a light well balanced rod.

For what it's worth that's just my thoughts & experiences, when faced with accidental captures of large fish I hadn't set out to catch.

I'm a Drennan man through & though especially the older rod ranges. The acolytes do look nice & well balanced! 😊

I'm talking about a hit and hold swim where you can't be gentle and play the fish out, a swim where you are trotting along a sunken tree and the second you strike the hook home the fish instantly bolts under the tree.
A soft through action rod allows the fish to reach into the snags because of the bend of the rod allowing it to.
 
I disagree with that completely.
Once a rod has locked up the next stage is a snapped rod anyhow.

A softer rod bends round faster and easier than a stiffer rod, so that will allow a fish to get into a snag much easier than a stiffer rod that doesn't bend so easy.




I'm talking about a hit and hold swim where you can't be gentle and play the fish out, a swim where you are trotting along a sunken tree and the second you strike the hook home the fish instantly bolts under the tree.
A soft through action rod allows the fish to reach into the snags because of the bend of the rod allowing it to.
I understand what your saying, 👍😊 but then wouldn't it be preferable to leger for them with stronger stepped up gear if fishing close to snags? And fish the float in more open snag free swims?

Don't get me wrong, I love the idea of a float caught barbel, must be pretty heart in the mouth stuff! 😊
 
You can buy a rod that can play a fish to death, or you can buy a rod with that power to stop and get that fish in..... before it gives its all. Line breaking strain included.
 
I disagree with that completely.
Once a rod has locked up the next stage is a snapped rod anyhow.
This is a different point because if a rod snaps, you’ve used a rod not rated highly enough for the job. This could be either a tip or through action rod the principal of using one strong enough not to snap shouldn’t change.

If your fishing hit and hold your rod is going to lock up. I lock my rods up frequently to the point they don’t want to bend anymore because small snaggy rivers are where I spend the majority of my fishing life. Comes with the territory. There’s a long way between locking up and breaking on an adequate rod for the fishing.

Your point about the fish being able to take up the action before it locks up is a valid one. A through action rod will allow it to go a few more feet taking up the rod’s action but its afew feet tops and once it takes it up, the pressure on the fish and control given to the angler is greater because the leverage is shorter.

It goes waaaaaaaay back long before marks video. The Japanese were doing it with whips that behaved like elastic bands. Banging out huge carp in fractions of the time that can be done with big powerful 3lb rods. It was no contest,
Carbotec was created on the same concept of these whips. Rod’s that hammered out fish before they even worked out they were hooked.
But they still made shit trotting rods for the reasons i mentioned above

It’s the same principle with rod lengths. I like longer rods for trotting I always have. I’m under no illusion though that a shorter rod would give me a bigger fish playing advantage because the pressure applied to the fish is greater but I like additional length especially when trotting from a bank.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top