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Boom!

Anyone tried these ?? Fits inline and a kicker or shrink tube is required, but it's a means to change the hook without breaking down the whole rig.

 
Has anyone ever wondered: what difference can there be between 0.30 and 0.50 in the brain of a barbel? Much less than in the brain of a angler, I think.
In addition, this rigid part does not enter the mouth of the fish!
Rigid part in 0.45 or 0.50 for me (all mono cheap). Flexible tip in braid of 15 pounds. Main line in 0.35 of high quality. Good for 414 barbels last year and only one break in snags.
 
Anyone tried these ?? Fits inline and a kicker or shrink tube is required, but it's a means to change the hook without breaking down the whole rig.

As someone who attaches my PVA bags to the lead with a Ronnie Swivel at the moment, these look like a simpler solution ;)
 
I use 19 lb Soft plus. But it costs a fortune.

But would happily go heavier - as has been pointed out it's pretty irrelevant to the fish.

Ive been mucking about with cheap amazon sourced fluoro this season and it seems fine (for fly fishing purposes so far).
 
Anyone tried these ?? Fits inline and a kicker or shrink tube is required, but it's a means to change the hook without breaking down the whole rig.

I’m sure they are well tested and proven but I don’t like the idea of thrm at all. Quick clips for hooks sounds like a disaster to me.
 
I have read through this thread carefully and others of a similar nature and one thing continually crops up and that is the unpredictable breaking strain/durability of flurocarbon and braid .There is clearly an issue here ,surely if the stated breaking strain is unpredictable it must negate some of the purpose of using these combined [ combi] rigs ?Why not just stick to mono which in my experience is closer to its stated breaking strain and seems pretty abrasion resistant to me . All these clips , lead cores , stripping back braid,it just seems way too much of a faff .Braid in particular seems to be utterly unreliable in terms of breaking strain and abrasion resistance , people seem to use very high stated breaking strains to compensate for its unpredictability in terms of when it will break or am I just reading this wrong ?
 
I’m sure they are well tested and proven but I don’t like the idea of thrm at all. Quick clips for hooks sounds like a disaster to me.

I'm going to get some and give them a go and see how I get on. I'm guilty of not changing a hook when I really should simply because I don't want to throw a perfectly good hook length away.
 
Have you tried these, Keith ?? I put mine on the lead swivel, works well for a mesh bag.

I use the same thing from Bank Tackle. Just pull the knot in the bag into the narrow end and job done. If I'm using a hair rig, then I also nick the hook into the lower end of the bag.
 
I have read through this thread carefully and others of a similar nature and one thing continually crops up and that is the unpredictable breaking strain/durability of flurocarbon and braid .There is clearly an issue here ,surely if the stated breaking strain is unpredictable it must negate some of the purpose of using these combined [ combi] rigs ?Why not just stick to mono which in my experience is closer to its stated breaking strain and seems pretty abrasion resistant to me . All these clips , lead cores , stripping back braid,it just seems way too much of a faff .Braid in particular seems to be utterly unreliable in terms of breaking strain and abrasion resistance , people seem to use very high stated breaking strains to compensate for its unpredictability in terms of when it will break or am I just reading this wrong ?

In my experience both braid and flouro are generally over rated when it comes to their stated breaking strains, mono is often quite the opposite. The way these different materials are rated can be very confusing but I tend to buy them for their other properties such as abrasion resistance or ability to sink which are harder to quantify. The braid and flouro I'm currently using on my combi rigs are rated at 20lb and 19lb respectively, if they break at 12-15lb but still do the job that I purchased them for then I'm happy.

Would mono do the same job? Possibly? Sometimes we catch almost regardless of what we use, at other times a % here or there makes all the difference. I use combi rigs in certain scenarios because they allow me to present a bait in a way that it behaves naturally but is also tangle free and retains the durability to land fish from some pretty unforgiving swims. Keeping things simple has its place but it's certainly not the be all and end all.
 
Have you tried these, Keith ?? I put mine on the lead swivel, works well for a mesh bag.

That’s what I’ve been using for a while now.Nick the hook in the bag,and then it’s easy to drop the lot in the gaps in the streamer weed.
They have been out of stock at my usual stores,so thanks for that link.
 
I sort of get this argument of presenting a bait 'naturally' when looked at in a clear river where maybe you are close to the fish , in essence stalking it ,and don't wan to spook them but want to place the bait near the fish without scaring them , but basically when you are ledgering you are pinning the bait to one place on the river bed , is that a natural presentation ? Chuck,for example a lump of spam[ unattached to a line ] in to the middle of a river with a decent flow and it will get washed along in the current until it stops in a pace where the current hasn't the strength to move it further or it is trapped by river bed features or weed , where the spam , or any other sizeable bait ends up is controlled by the river, that to me , if we could control it ,would be natural presentation ., free lining or rolling baits is the closest angling method to mimic this . Pinning the bait to the river bed in the middle of the flow is not natural but that's how we catch them in most instances , i.e. we get the fish to come to the bait by whatever attractant that it gives off. I don't believe that all these sophisticated rigs make any real difference in terms of reducing the chance of spooking fish in a turbid river , if they find it and are hungry they will take it , Barbel, in my opinion are not a sophisticated / canny fish and I think we anglers sometimes over think presentation . Basically on big / medium size rivers most barbel anglers chuck their bait out to wherever they think the fish may be or maybe turn up at some point , sit back and wait for something to happen and that's it ! Varying hook lengths , using hair rigs etc will make a small difference but I don't think its critical in terms of catching or not catching
 
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I sort of get this argument of presenting a bait 'naturally' when looked at in a clear river where maybe you are close to the fish , in essence stalking it ,and don't wan to spook them but want to place the bait near the fish without scaring them , but basically when you are ledgering you are pinning the bait to one place on the river bed , is that a natural presentation ? Chuck,for example a lump of spam[ unattached to a line ] in to the middle of a river with a decent flow and it will get washed along in the current until it stops in a pace where the current hasn't the strength to move it further or it is trapped by river bed features or weed , where the spam , or any other sizeable bait ends up is controlled by the river, that to me , if we could control it ,would be natural presentation ., free lining or rolling baits is the closest angling method to mimic this . Pinning the bait to the river bed in the middle of the flow is not natural but that's how we catch them in most instances , i.e. we get the fish to come to the bait by whatever attractant that it gives off. I don't believe that all these sophisticated rigs make any real difference in terms of reducing the chance of spooking fish in a turbid river , if they find it and are hungry they will take it , Barbel, in my opinion are not a sophisticated / canny fish and I think we anglers sometimes over think presentation . Basically on big / medium size rivers most barbel anglers chuck their bait out to wherever they think the fish may be or maybe turn up at some point , sit back and wait for something to happen and that's it ! Varying hook lengths , using hair rigs etc will make a small difference but I don't think its critical in terms of catching or not catching

I guess that's the difference between using something for a set purpose to overcome a certain scenario and using something just because it's the latest fad/what others do.

Where I'm fishing at the moment the set up it is critical in terms of putting fish on the bank safely rather than tricking the fish into making a mistake. I could use a heavy mono or flouro hooklength to combat the rocks but then you would lose some of the subtlety of the braid. I could use a long length of braid but then you compromise abrasion resistance and increase the risk of tangles. So a combination of the two works extremely well and if you join those two materials using a small swivel you have to ability to replace the hook section in seconds.

Barbel are probably one of the least circumspect fish in our rivers, they certainly don't need tricking if they are present and feeding. That aside a bait that is presented with a little thought will generally be more successful and those little 1 or 2% gains add up over the course of a season 😉
 
If you are worried about the strength of something; why not just test it ?

A mate tested some braid recently and it broke on a simple pull at 7lb; it said 30 on the spool.

I test all my lines with their respective knots - it’s really easy. Similarly if you tied 2 lengths in series you could test one length against another. You very quickly get a feel for what works and what doesnt.

Ive never broken (on a fish) the Fluoro I mentioned earlier (19lb soft plus) and it’s caught some serious fish including several 30lb plus permit and carp to 43lb. I have a reputation amongst my close mates for pulling hard on my fish - so it’s pretty solid stuff…..

I usually tie my combi rigs with an improved albright, but have also caught fish with a crimped loop in the stiff section and a hook tied with a loop - so its easy to alter the hook/hair etc etc. But I don’t do the latter very often - I’ve used 3 hooks so far this season !
 
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Bought this to try for the boom on combi link
 
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Would not use fluro or standard line on 90% of swims on ribble for hook lengths. Lost to many fish. Nash Armourbraid the braid to use when fish around bedrock. Tuff gear takes something to cut through it
Been using short coated braid hook lengths no more than 15 inch that has stopped the cut offs in snaggy swims
 
I've been tempted to use a boom section for some time now, mainly because I fish rocky rivers but like a long hook link so rather than use a metre of braid I'd like to use maybe 250mm of braid and 750mm of tough boom section. The extra knots/loops/crimps don't bother me or put me off but the 'balancing' of the breaking strains does.
The only way I can get it to work is 10lb braid hooklink, 12lb boom section and 15lb mainline. Is this similar to what you're all doing?
 
Gtrat advo
View attachment 25119
Would not use fluro or standard line on 90% of swims on ribble for hook lengths. Lost to many fish. Nash Armourbraid the braid to use when fish around bedrock. Tuff gear takes something to cut through it
Been using short coated braid hook lengths no more than 15 inch that has stopped the cut offs in snaggy swims

View attachment 25119
Would not use fluro or standard line on 90% of swims on ribble for hook lengths. Lost to many fish. Nash Armourbraid the braid to use when fish around bedrock. Tuff gear takes something to cut through it
Been using short coated braid hook lengths no more than 15 inch that has stopped the cut offs in snaggy swims
Thats great advice Gary...👌
 
I've been tempted to use a boom section for some time now, mainly because I fish rocky rivers but like a long hook link so rather than use a metre of braid I'd like to use maybe 250mm of braid and 750mm of tough boom section. The extra knots/loops/crimps don't bother me or put me off but the 'balancing' of the breaking strains does.
The only way I can get it to work is 10lb braid hooklink, 12lb boom section and 15lb mainline. Is this similar to what you're all doing?
I'd be more likely to.incerase the breaking strain here... less likely to be found out with a breakage..
 
For me the cost of 1m of thick coated braid is peanuts when I consider it’s removed both a weak link out of the equation and the possibility of a cut off.
I’ve never broken it with a fish in 6 years on small snaggy rivers with big angry doubles.

I read far too often about fish cutting people off and it’s unnecessary. Just use something tough and durable and stop weighing up the costs vs cheaper inferior products and cobbled together rigs. Barbel are not rig shy. We don’t need invisible lines or thin diameters to catch em. Just pin it down and make it strong
 
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