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Bearing pins. Replacing the bearings.

Richard Isaacs

Senior Member & Supporter
I know this covers several pins including the common design used in youngs pins.
Not all are the same so do your checks as necessary.

I’ve seen a couple of things on line about this particularly with bob James pins and a super light.

The one I’m going to show you is the same procedure. Fox bob James.

Firstly some donts. Or home truths.
Do not remove the circlip.
Do not remove the check gear
Do not remove the end float
Do not use a screwdriver to prize the brass threaded seat lose.

Everything I’ve said not to do above is described in a couple of posts on the internet stating you should do this.

The only thing you need to remove is the brass threaded seat and this should only be done with a correctly fitting tool. The process is so simple I think I’ll let the pictures explain the rest.
You’ll need a little hook to gently tease the bearings out. Be patient and they’ll come out. Don’t need to poke them out through the float screw hole.

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Reason for the replacement….. the bearings used in this pin and probably many others are low quality, quite poor tolerances and generally quite cheap run of the mill stainless bearings. They have started to rumble more with use and because I love to use this pin so much I’ve got to treat it to some very high quality ones.
I’m going with the hybrid ceramic bicycle wheel bearings from enduro. Expensive yes but they’ll transform it into something really special along with some new handles which I’ll be changing next.
 
Reason for the replacement….. the bearings used in this pin and probably many others are low quality, quite poor tolerances and generally quite cheap run of the mill stainless bearings. They have started to rumble more with use and because I love to use this pin so much I’ve got to treat it to some very high quality ones.
I’m going with the hybrid ceramic bicycle wheel bearings from enduro. Expensive yes but they’ll transform it into something really special along with some new handles which I’ll be changing next.
Not that I have these reels, or even seen what the bearings look like.
Is that two bearings your replacing or just the one Richard?
 
Too late now I suppose, but it would have been good if you had videoed the reel rotating before you operated on it, then the proceedure, and then the reel rotating after the new bearings were fitted.
How does the reel run now with the new bearings?

Here's one of a chap replacing the bearings in a okuma reel....

 
I’d be interested if anyone has done the same to an Adcock Stanton. Mine runs forever but rumbles like an old locomotive.
 
Too late now I suppose, but it would have been good if you had videoed the reel rotating before you operated on it, then the proceedure, and then the reel rotating after the new bearings were fitted.
How does the reel run now with the new bearings?

Here's one of a chap replacing the bearings in a okuma reel....

I have not got the new bearings yet. I’ll update once fitted. Just wanted to clear up some terrible advice that’s available to people on the internet about changing bearings on this design of reel.

I’m not in YT I don’t do videos. The pictures and descriptions will have to be sufficient I’m afraid
I’m hoping it makes a huge difference. The bearings I’ve gone for as as high quality as it gets and just over £20 a piece.
 
I have not got the new bearings yet. I’ll update once fitted. Just wanted to clear up some terrible advice that’s available to people on the internet about changing bearings on this design of reel.

I’m not in YT I don’t do videos. The pictures and descriptions will have to be sufficient I’m afraid
I’m hoping it makes a huge difference. The bearings I’ve gone for as as high quality as it gets and just over £20 a piece.


Fingers crossed for you they do make a difference for the better!

Out of interest, what are the bearings you have orderd?
 
Fingers crossed for you they do make a difference for the better!

Out of interest, what are the bearings you have orderd?
I’m not so bothered about a bearing noise as such so long as my reel feels smooth and free.

It’s the lumpy rumble I’m now feeling through the back plate is getting worse and worse and I’m hoping it’s just low tolerance, cheap Micky mouse bearings and not a tolerance problem on the reel.
It’s my favorite pin to use. I absolutely love the 5 inch diameter so hopefully I can improve it.
I’ve gone for an Enduro bearing. They are fitted in the pedals and wheels of performance bicycles.
They are a high quality hybrid ceramic ball and stainless race
They will make noise but they should be very very free running and smooth. The abec tolerance is 5 which is very very good and generally this being low is what can cause rumble. Abec ratings are the tolerances of the balls roundness and sizes in a bearing.

Abec 1 is still a decent workable tolerance of ball and probably what is fitted in most pins.

Abec 3 or above…… I think going with roundness tolerances of this will improve that occasional clunky rumble on some reels. I’ve gone with Abec 5 and I’m hoping I get a result

I’ll update next week if it works or not
 
I've got one of those with rumbling
bearings and would love to get it sorted out for next season
So to that end a couple of questions - there may be more subsequently.
What size Allen key were you using on the ratchet gear end and who supplies the new bearings that you used?
Thanks in advance.
 
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