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Base mixes, liquid flavours and additives.

Tone Smith

Senior Member
It’s a subject with two sections for discussion.
1 If secured airtight, how long do you think base mixes are safe to keep and use without going off?

2. How long do you think you can store and use liquid flavours and additives to base mixes, once they’ve been opened?

Should they be replaced every season? What’s your view on the subject?
 
It’s a subject with two sections for discussion.
1 If secured airtight, how long do you think base mixes are safe to keep and use without going off?

2. How long do you think you can store and use liquid flavours and additives to base mixes, once they’ve been opened?

Should they be replaced every season? What’s your view on the subject?
Depends on the ingredients I would guess.
I use Some John baker base mixes and have had this discussion with him on his base mixes and because he uses very fresh posh ingredients you should really use them within 3 months after opening and keep them stored in the fridge.
If you haven’t opened it they can be stored cool in the fridge for 9 months and stay fresh. He also said you can freeze them sealed in the bag and they will last considerably longer staying fresh. It’s good to know as It lasts me absolutely ages. 2kg will do me a full season and longer.
 
That`s you buggered then Tony 🤣 😂 we will have to buy some mate.
 
My baits these days come out of a tin (one rod) and are shelf-life (t'other rod), so I have no views as an answer.

But remember, ask a bait manufacturer and he'll say they won't last long ....... so buy some more.
 
It’s a subject with two sections for discussion.
1 If secured airtight, how long do you think base mixes are safe to keep and use without going off?

2. How long do you think you can store and use liquid flavours and additives to base mixes, once they’ve been opened?

Should they be replaced every season? What’s your view on the subject?
I've been using a base mix this season which was first opened 2 years ago I'll be using the last of it up in March when I'll probably be fishing next,and the bait has been successful for me on a very hard and lightly fished stretch of river,as for the additives imo they should last indefinitely.
 
I bought a bulk 10kg tub of the original Activ8 base mix and it lasted years. It was kept sealed and dry and was equally effective when I finished it as when I started. Just wish it was still available, best bait ever
 
A bait manufacturer telling anglers to purchase new bait every three months is akin to a leading tackle manufacturer encouraging anglers to drop the lead on every take.
No wonder Mr Fairbrass owns a Ferrari.
I also believe Mr Baker isn’t a fan of pellets ,and we all know how good they can be, probably for a similar reason .

Blimey im getting cynical in my old age
 
A bait manufacturer telling anglers to purchase new bait every three months is akin to a leading tackle manufacturer encouraging anglers to drop the lead on every take.
No wonder Mr Fairbrass owns a Ferrari.
I also believe Mr Baker isn’t a fan of pellets ,and we all know how good they can be, probably for a similar reason .

Blimey im getting cynical in my old age

Dead right Bob, it always amuses me how they stress the need for old baits yet a lot of the time anglers go to the trouble of making their bait appear as if it's been lying on the river bed for ages! Fish are not people and like all wild creatures will eat whatever they can get hold of when they're hungry.
 
Anglers blithely talk about bait 'shelf life' as if it's a definitive (temporally/time wise) and 'additives' and 'flavours' almost as though they're magic potions, whereas the former will actually vary vastly depending on storage conditions (and how clinical the bait manufacturer has been in the production process) and the latter are mere individual chemicals, mixtures of chemicals, and compounds (of various ages and purity).
In 99%+ of cases, the degradation of flavours/additives and the shortening of shelf life (mixes/pastes/boilies [and pellets]) will be caused entirely by oxidation. If you can reduce that oxidation, then the items will remain stable (unchanged/ in stasis). (Think about luncheon meat. In itself it's probably got a 'self life' of a few days, but in a hermetically sealed tin it will last for decades, and in a freezer, centuries most probably.
Oxidation is a (fairly simple) chemical reaction and the rate of this reaction will be influenced by various (environmental) factors.
1/. Temperature (the higher the temperature, the faster the reaction i.e. the oxidation)
2/. Concentration of the reactive substance in the item.
3/. Particle size of solids in powers and pastes : the smaller the particle size, the greater the particle surface area, and the greater area that can react with the available oxygen (via adsorption and absorption). In liquids, the amount of airspace in container it's stored will be be critical.
4/ The degree of agitation/mixing of liquids. That is, if the liquid is shaken regularly then the air/oxygen in the available airspace above the liquid will be regularly shaken into the liquid, and lead to more/faster oxidation) ).
5/. the amount of oxygen available to react on that surface area (including the volume of air space in bottles etc).
6/. Radiation, that is, in this case, light (the more radiation there is, the faster the oxidation will take place). To put it simply, radiation 'excites' molecules, and makes then move about more, and react more.
So, your 'enemy' is oxygen, or more accurately, oxidation....and your (practical, and 'tactical:) ) 'weapons'are.
A/. Temperature : keep item at lowest temperature possible.
B/. Restrict the amount of oxygen available to the item. Securely fasten, open containers only when necessary, and if possible fill out into smaller containers and leave minimal airspace in said containers. I'd suggest tall/thin containers, them being better than wide ones as item's surface area will be reduced (and with soft walled plastic containers, the airspace may be 'squeezed out'). And consider using vacuum sealed plastic bags if bags are to be be your method of storage.
C/. Reduce radiation : store in a dark space.
Whatever the item, and I do mean whatever, the degree of degradation can be relatively easily controlled by being mindful of above variables/factors. If THE most reactive (i.e. those with the stated shortest shelf life) flavour/additive/mix/bait is denied oxygen, kept at lowest temperature possible, kept in the dark, it will last for years. The only thing that may not last is your confidence in it.
PS... items in a paste form will be most vulnerable to the process of oxidization/degradation, especially those that contain water and contain finely ground particles.
PPS... most flavours, additives etc are made from chemicals/chemical mixtures, and these individual chemicals/mixes will often have been made in relatively large processing plants, and may have been made/produced years ago. These chemicals are mixed together by bait manufactures (in large tubs/vats etc), filled out, and put in stock. Therefore the ingredients within supplied flavours/additives may be many years old before you receive them.
PPS... if freezing boilies then it's better to add a little glug to them first, as freezing may lead to some dehydration. And on a minor, almost irrelevant note, consistency of certain items can change on storage/freezing. For example, items that are composed via a structure of cellular (aqueous) walls . That is, try freezing a tomato, or berries :)
 
Anglers blithely talk about bait 'shelf life' as if it's a definitive (temporally/time wise) and 'additives' and 'flavours' almost as though they're magic potions, whereas the former will actually vary vastly depending on storage conditions (and how clinical the bait manufacturer has been in the production process) and the latter are mere individual chemicals, mixtures of chemicals, and compounds (of various ages and purity).
In 99%+ of cases, the degradation of flavours/additives and the shortening of shelf life (mixes/pastes/boilies [and pellets]) will be caused entirely by oxidation. If you can reduce that oxidation, then the items will remain stable (unchanged/ in stasis). (Think about luncheon meat. In itself it's probably got a 'self life' of a few days, but in a hermetically sealed tin it will last for decades, and in a freezer, centuries most probably.
Oxidation is a (fairly simple) chemical reaction and the rate of this reaction will be influenced by various (environmental) factors.
1/. Temperature (the higher the temperature, the faster the reaction i.e. the oxidation)
2/. Concentration of the reactive substance in the item.
3/. Particle size of solids in powers and pastes : the smaller the particle size, the greater the particle surface area, and the greater area that can react with the available oxygen (via adsorption and absorption). In liquids, the amount of airspace in container it's stored will be be critical.
4/ The degree of agitation/mixing of liquids. That is, if the liquid is shaken regularly then the air/oxygen in the available airspace above the liquid will be regularly shaken into the liquid, and lead to more/faster oxidation) ).
5/. the amount of oxygen available to react on that surface area (including the volume of air space in bottles etc).
6/. Radiation, that is, in this case, light (the more radiation there is, the faster the oxidation will take place). To put it simply, radiation 'excites' molecules, and makes then move about more, and react more.
So, your 'enemy' is oxygen, or more accurately, oxidation....and your (practical, and 'tactical:) ) 'weapons'are.
A/. Temperature : keep item at lowest temperature possible.
B/. Restrict the amount of oxygen available to the item. Securely fasten, open containers only when necessary, and if possible fill out into smaller containers and leave minimal airspace in said containers. I'd suggest tall/thin containers, them being better than wide ones as item's surface area will be reduced (and with soft walled plastic containers, the airspace may be 'squeezed out'). And consider using vacuum sealed plastic bags if bags are to be be your method of storage.
C/. Reduce radiation : store in a dark space.
Whatever the item, and I do mean whatever, the degree of degradation can be relatively easily controlled by being mindful of above variables/factors. If THE most reactive (i.e. those with the stated shortest shelf life) flavour/additive/mix/bait is denied oxygen, kept at lowest temperature possible, kept in the dark, it will last for years. The only thing that may not last is your confidence in it.
PS... items in a paste form will be most vulnerable to the process of oxidization/degradation, especially those that contain water and contain finely ground particles.
PPS... most flavours, additives etc are made from chemicals/chemical mixtures, and these individual chemicals/mixes will often have been made in relatively large processing plants, and may have been made/produced years ago. These chemicals are mixed together by bait manufactures (in large tubs/vats etc), filled out, and put in stock. Therefore the ingredients within supplied flavours/additives may be many years old before you receive them.
PPS... if freezing boilies then it's better to add a little glug to them first, as freezing may lead to some dehydration. And on a minor, almost irrelevant note, consistency of certain items can change on storage/freezing. For example, items that are composed via a structure of cellular (aqueous) walls . That is, try freezing a tomato, or berries :)
Wow!!!! Great post Terry. I’d like to think I learn a new thing every day but after reading that I’m now covered with new things till 2021 😎
 
No word of a lie I’ve just started back barbel fishing after about 15 years away predator fishing and I had a tub of halibut pellets covered in halibut oil in the fridge (outside in the shed)all this time, I’ve been using them over the last few months with no problems and I’ve had nice fish on them, my mate won’t go anywhere near them 😂
 
No word of a lie I’ve just started back barbel fishing after about 15 years away predator fishing and I had a tub of halibut pellets covered in halibut oil in the fridge (outside in the shed)all this time, I’ve been using them over the last few months with no problems and I’ve had nice fish on them, my mate won’t go anywhere near them 😂
And my wife won’t go near me when I’ve used them 😂
 
And consider using vacuum sealed plastic bags if bags are to be be your method of storage.
Has anyone used/owned one of the budget-end vac packing machines? When they’re on offer online, they can be picked up for sub £25. Obviously, you have to pay for the bags as well. If they do the job adequately, I’d imagine they’re a great little tool for bait storage, both in terms of space saving and degradation prevention. If anyone has any experience with them, it’d be good to hear it. The next price band up with them seems to be £45+.

* Brilliant post by the way, Terry.
 
Hi Alex, yes I use them. I bought one (a cheapo Chinese thing, plus bags, off eBay) after buying a couple of different self-life boilies in 5kg bags. I vacuum sealed 3 x 1kg of each straight away, plus 4 x 250g of each with some a glug in. I'd also got kilos of Elips pellets in their 3 different sizes, and I vac-packed much of those too. I store all this, plus other stuff, in an old upright freezer in the garage. The freezer doesn't work, but it keeps the bait in the dark, at a steady temperature, and is vermin-proof.
I learned the hard way but, if you do buy one : make absolutely sure you get the correct sized bags for your needs, don't try to overfill bags (otherwise you won't be able to seal them effectively), and if you're going to add glug, make sure you don't get any on the surfaces that are going to create the heat-seal.
20201111_101257.jpg
 
Generally make it a rule to store bait and additives in the dark, sealed and at low temperature in a freezer (for liquids in a fridge). Have kept various baits for many years, which have proved effective fish catchers.
Latest vacuum sealer is AICOK which has given great service. AICOK 3 in 1 Auto food sealer with wet and dry facility cost around 30 squid.
Before that used a vacuum pump lashed up to a manual heat sealer.
Have some 15 year old Bfw Salips and Bfw Halips which I'm reluctant to chuck out.

Cheers
Bob
 
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