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The search for perfection

I guess Richard knows this, but epoxy will soften when immersed in very hot water. I've replaced a few fly rod reel seats this way. Separating a spliced tip might not be too difficult.
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Richard didn’t glue his tip as far as I know. And I think you are right, you will need to reapply the epoxy after removing the tip. BTW, I don’t think hot water is hot enough to remove the tip.
 
Hi Richard, congranulations on achieving your objective. I have a problem which must be common since there are lots of reports of broken rod tips. I have a Silstar diaflex with a broken tip. I’m am using it at its shortened length but would like to restore it to its original 4.2m. Its original carbon tip was about 80cm. I can see I can get longer tips in Europe, I cannot find a supplier of longer tips in the UK. I will also have the issue of removing the existing spliced in tip. Has anyone got any experience of this? Will it be glued in place? If it is how do I handle the glue or do I just have to cut back to the end of the spliced tip?

Since it seems we can no longer get bits from guides and blanks I have been looking elsewhere and seen some parts I’ve not seen before.It seems Fuji have a an attachment for the butt which has variable weights, might be useful for you.
It will be very unlikely and unfortunate if it is glued in
Unlike quiver tips, spliced tips are put in through the back of the rod not pushed into the front so it’s pulled through till the tapers lock up and to glue this in would be messy as it would smear glue through the hollow section and also completely unnecessary.

My gut feeling is if you removed the whipping sealing the joint and give the tip a push backwards it should come out. If it’s tight then cut the tip down to make it more rigid and give it a gentle tap.
some of My tips are 80 and 90 cm long before I cut them down which had to be obtained from Europe also.
 
It will be very unlikely and unfortunate if it is glued in
Unlike quiver tips, spliced tips are put in through the back of the rod not pushed into the front so it’s pulled through till the tapers lock up and to glue this in would be messy as it would smear glue through the hollow section and also completely unnecessary.

My gut feeling is if you removed the whipping sealing the joint and give the tip a push backwards it should come out. If it’s tight then cut the tip down to make it more rigid and give it a gentle tap.
some of My tips are 80 and 90 cm long before I cut them down which had to be obtained from Europe also.
Thanks for the advice, it does not look like an impossibly now. I think this might be a closed season project.
 
Richard didn’t glue his tip as far as I know.

In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.

I’ve been told by a rod builder that you can remove glued splice tip by heating the joint part, but that’s a hard job and require some experience, so I never tried it, but in theory it should work.

Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours 🤪, is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
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In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.



Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours 🤪, is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
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Yes sort of but neither require glue.
The fundamental difference between a removable quiver tip and a permanent spliced tip is that a spliced tip goes in through the back and the tapers match and lock up which provides a better transition between the actions of the two sections
Removable quivers as you know push in the front and is nipped up on the tip taper only so they don’t really bring anything special to a rods action.
Yes you’re exactly right that a spliced is permanent. It’s not glued in but the joint is sealed and the guides would prevent you getting it out irrespective of that anyway
 
In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.



Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours 🤪, is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
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As far as I am aware a spliced tip and a “fixed” quiver is just like a telescopic section that has jammed. A bit of thread neatly bound around the tip stops it retracting back into the hollow section of the rod. Finished with a bit of varnish it is fixed in place. No epoxy or varnish creeping into the joint, I hope. 🙂 The amount of the tip which is left inside the hollow section determines how stiff this bit of the rod is. A small overlap obviously risks breakage, a longer overlap adversely affects the action of the rod.
 
thread neatly bound around the tip stops it retracting back into the hollow section of the rod. Finished with a bit of varnish it is fixed in place
It is there to seal the joint and prevent the hollow section from splitting when under pressure.
Once the tapers are locked up, even without the whipping, it’s not moving without a dam good shove.

You want a good 2 inch of solid inside the hollow section ideally
 
In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.



Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours 🤪, is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
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Some manufacturers glue the spliced tip, at least I know drennan did on one of their feeder rods.

In general, a spliced tip is basically a fine solid tip that put in through the back of the top section and fixed with wrapping etc.
 
Final update on this now. Unless I get questions.
Got everything I needed this morning to conclude
I had a 4 hour window to fish a pacy flowing river nene and the conditions looked A1 for a bite. The fact that I ran out of bait in 3 hours tells the story in itself.
The new free spirit put 23 chub in my net. No huge lumps either just good old modest chub between 12oz-4lb which were perfect for trying out the rods versatility.
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Let’s start with the fact that I’ve achieved the goal of creating something much more versatile than what it was before.
Today we were at 0.18 main line 0.16 hook lengths, size 16 super spades and double whites going through
The Rod was great and i could definitely feel a more responsive and sensitive side to it. Obviously it’s got a lot of power still below the tip and the new butt cap has definitely restored the balance back. It feels much better and lighter in the hand now.

However……. It’s very unlikely I’ll actually use it much at all and that’s not because it’s no good and it’s not because I’ve failed at creating exactly what I set out to do.

What ive done is I’ve created a bit of a jack of all trades and expert in none if that makes sense. It’s brilliant for big lumps I knew this already because i haven’t reduced its power at all. and it’s brilliant for smaller fish as I’ve made it a lot more tippy and useful at lighter fishing styles
It’s great for flicking out smaller floats and it will cast any weight I want should I want to put something bossy on
I could feed it 0.24 lines if I wanted too and it would feel good still because of the general stiffness and strength still retained in the middle of the rod. There’s not much it wouldn’t feel good doing…..but…..

It’s never going to replace something task specific and that is what my fishing is all about.
Today was really great fun and I really enjoyed the rod but it would have been even better had I taken an avenger *000 or a browning sphere.

In the summer i could use it for picking up a huge nene barbel on a lump of meat but it’s not going to do that job as well as the stiff hollow tipped original.

I could take it down the Trent on 0.22 with a big 10grammer and hit barbel from 60 yards no problem at all, but I know the powerful tsi or original free spirit with their punchy hollow tips are going to perform even better in this case scenario

Graying fishing with 3-4g floats and fine tackle would be easily a delightful experience on it now that tip is so responsive and lightning fast but it would be be even more delightful done with the 15’6 sphere that has a bit more give and softness in the middle sections.

The problem I have, is I know what I’m going to catch on the venues I fish and I specifically target certain fish in certain situations. I have very task specific rods to cover me for these task specific situations so a great all rounder of a rod isn’t really something I’d reach for as a first pick.

I do believe though that it would be brilliant for a lot of anglers that fish rivers with no idea of what’s coming next.
Anglers that trot with the sole intention of hitting bites which could literally be anything from an 8oz roach to an 8lb barbel and every thing in between. That’s where this rod really belongs 0.18- 0.20 main line 0.15-0.18 hook lengths and just play anything and everything to the net with enjoyment. It’s a fantastic all round river trotting rod that will literally do anything really well. But nothing to absolute perfection.
 
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