The search for perfection

[Huanzhou Zhu]

I guess Richard knows this, but epoxy will soften when immersed in very hot water. I've replaced a few fly rod reel seats this way. Separating a spliced tip might not be too difficult.
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Richard didn’t glue his tip as far as I know. And I think you are right, you will need to reapply the epoxy after removing the tip. BTW, I don’t think hot water is hot enough to remove the tip.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

Hi Richard, congranulations on achieving your objective. I have a problem which must be common since there are lots of reports of broken rod tips. I have a Silstar diaflex with a broken tip. I’m am using it at its shortened length but would like to restore it to its original 4.2m. Its original carbon tip was about 80cm. I can see I can get longer tips in Europe, I cannot find a supplier of longer tips in the UK. I will also have the issue of removing the existing spliced in tip. Has anyone got any experience of this? Will it be glued in place? If it is how do I handle the glue or do I just have to cut back to the end of the spliced tip?

Since it seems we can no longer get bits from guides and blanks I have been looking elsewhere and seen some parts I’ve not seen before.It seems Fuji have a an attachment for the butt which has variable weights, might be useful for you.

It will be very unlikely and unfortunate if it is glued in
Unlike quiver tips, spliced tips are put in through the back of the rod not pushed into the front so it’s pulled through till the tapers lock up and to glue this in would be messy as it would smear glue through the hollow section and also completely unnecessary.

My gut feeling is if you removed the whipping sealing the joint and give the tip a push backwards it should come out. If it’s tight then cut the tip down to make it more rigid and give it a gentle tap.
some of My tips are 80 and 90 cm long before I cut them down which had to be obtained from Europe also.

 

[Ralph Harris]

It will be very unlikely and unfortunate if it is glued in
Unlike quiver tips, spliced tips are put in through the back of the rod not pushed into the front so it’s pulled through till the tapers lock up and to glue this in would be messy as it would smear glue through the hollow section and also completely unnecessary.

My gut feeling is if you removed the whipping sealing the joint and give the tip a push backwards it should come out. If it’s tight then cut the tip down to make it more rigid and give it a gentle tap.
some of My tips are 80 and 90 cm long before I cut them down which had to be obtained from Europe also.

Thanks for the advice, it does not look like an impossibly now. I think this might be a closed season project.

 

[Kevin Steele]

Richard didn’t glue his tip as far as I know.

In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.

I’ve been told by a rod builder that you can remove glued splice tip by heating the joint part, but that’s a hard job and require some experience, so I never tried it, but in theory it should work.

Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours , is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
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[Richard Isaacs]

In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.



Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours , is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
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Yes sort of but neither require glue.
The fundamental difference between a removable quiver tip and a permanent spliced tip is that a spliced tip goes in through the back and the tapers match and lock up which provides a better transition between the actions of the two sections
Removable quivers as you know push in the front and is nipped up on the tip taper only so they don’t really bring anything special to a rods action.
Yes you’re exactly right that a spliced is permanent. It’s not glued in but the joint is sealed and the guides would prevent you getting it out irrespective of that anyway

 

[Ralph Harris]

In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.



Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours , is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
.

As far as I am aware a spliced tip and a “fixed” quiver is just like a telescopic section that has jammed. A bit of thread neatly bound around the tip stops it retracting back into the hollow section of the rod. Finished with a bit of varnish it is fixed in place. No epoxy or varnish creeping into the joint, I hope. The amount of the tip which is left inside the hollow section determines how stiff this bit of the rod is. A small overlap obviously risks breakage, a longer overlap adversely affects the action of the rod.

 

[Richard Isaacs]

thread neatly bound around the tip stops it retracting back into the hollow section of the rod. Finished with a bit of varnish it is fixed in place

It is there to seal the joint and prevent the hollow section from splitting when under pressure.
Once the tapers are locked up, even without the whipping, it’s not moving without a dam good shove.

You want a good 2 inch of solid inside the hollow section ideally

 

[Kevin Steele]

Thanks for indulging me, chaps. It's a question that previously I'd hardly dare ask.
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[Huanzhou Zhu]

In which case I'm a bit confused by why you wrote this.



Maybe I should read the entire thread, but to save me a few hours , is a spliced tip a little bit like (but not literally) a quiver tip that's been glued (or fixed) permanently?
.

Some manufacturers glue the spliced tip, at least I know drennan did on one of their feeder rods.

In general, a spliced tip is basically a fine solid tip that put in through the back of the top section and fixed with wrapping etc.