Korda camo bolt and run rigs,

[Haydn Clarke]

What has any of this got to do with Danny Fairbrass? It’s a Korum product, not Korda. Last time I looked Korum was owned by Zebco, Korda independent.

Well, mad bad, I guess, if it is a Korum product but the opening poster has called the item in question a Korda Camo Bolt And Run rig, so naturally, I assumed it to be made by Korda. Daft of me, I know, but such is life.

Hmmmm….
View attachment 32327

Obviously everyone has their preferences

Hmmm indeed. Hence why I said depending on who you listen too. Clearly some people are having issues getting the running link to fit over the bead which, I suppose is why they’ve posted as such on this thread. I’m not one of them as I don’t use this product and therefore….

Blimey people do seem to be getting their knickers in a twist over this.

… I’m pleased to say my knickers remain completely twist free.

 

[Alan Rose]

Well, mad bad, I guess, if it is a Korum product but the opening poster has called the item in question a Korda Camo Bolt And Run rig, so naturally, I assumed it to be made by Korda. Daft of me, I know, but such is life.

Hmmm indeed. Hence why I said depending on who you listen too. Clearly some people are having issues getting the running link to fit over the bead which, I suppose is why they’ve posted as such on this thread. I’m not one of them as I don’t use this product and therefore….


… I’m pleased to say my knickers remain completely twist free.

Just to prove the adage that there’s no such thing as bad publicity, I have ordered- notwithstanding this thread- a packet of Korum Camo Bolt and Run rigs!

Cheers Danny!
Cheers Ali!
Cheers Dick!
Cheers to all you innovators, pioneers and haters

 

[Daniel Jeffery]

You should’ve bought the Korda ones

 

[Kevin Steele]

...I have ordered- notwithstanding this thread- a packet of Korum Camo Bolt and Run rigs!

Cheers Danny!
Cheers Ali!
Cheers Dick!
Cheers to all you innovators, pioneers and haters

You didn't mention us Luddite's.
.

 

[Graham Elliott]

Blimey people do seem to be getting their knickers in a twist over this. No horse in this race but:


£5 for a set 4 rigs so not really a fiver a shot.


What has any of this got to do with Danny Fairbrass? It’s a Korum product, not Korda. Last time I looked Korum was owned by Zebco, Korda independent.


Hmmmm….
View attachment 32327

Obviously everyone has their preferences

Can't see anyone getting too excited discussing this. Pointless site if we all agreed, sensible views only get inflamed with childish comments usually

I looked on eBay at the Korum rigs.
There are lots of single rig packs for between 4.75 and 5.99 plus postage. Hence my £5.00 comment

 

[David Gauntlett]

Hmmm, seems I started a lot of controversy here, sorry guys, that was obviously not my aim. As for some of the other points raised, I too find the bead part very hard and plastic like. Were they not so hard, this issue would not have occurred. I tried VERY hard to push the run ring over the collar on the bead, and I am no weakling, but it was utterly impossible. I do wonder if, as suggested, some of the parts in the kit I received were muddled up, as they do come in different size kits. But, even if that is so, had the part been a soft rubber, it would still have worked. Oh well, might try filing the collar down until the run ring will pass over it, or go back to my old standby of a 3 or 4 swan shot link ledger, stopped by the old leger stop (small tapered plastic peg pushed into a wee sleeve) and a bead. Actually, that wouldn't work on even my wee river in the state of the rivers right now, needs a couple of ounces or more, but happy memories. Thanks again for all the helpful posts guys, appreciated.

 

[Graham Elliott]

Hmmm, seems I started a lot of controversy here, sorry guys, that was obviously not my aim. As for some of the other points raised, I too find the bead part very hard and plastic like. Were they not so hard, this issue would not have occurred. I tried VERY hard to push the run ring over the collar on the bead, and I am no weakling, but it was utterly impossible. I do wonder if, as suggested, some of the parts in the kit I received were muddled up, as they do come in different size kits. But, even if that is so, had the part been a soft rubber, it would still have worked. Oh well, might try filing the collar down until the run ring will pass over it, or go back to my old standby of a 3 or 4 swan shot link ledger, stopped by the old leger stop (small tapered plastic peg pushed into a wee sleeve) and a bead. Actually, that wouldn't work on even my wee river in the state of the rivers right now, needs a couple of ounces or more, but happy memories. Thanks again for all the helpful posts guys, appreciated.

Hi David. Look at what I suggested. Very easy to put together.

Anyway, The River Chess is only 2 inches deep now due the constant extraction.

 

[Jim Brook]

Hmmm, seems I started a lot of controversy here, sorry guys, that was obviously not my aim. As for some of the other points raised, I too find the bead part very hard and plastic like. Were they not so hard, this issue would not have occurred. I tried VERY hard to push the run ring over the collar on the bead, and I am no weakling, but it was utterly impossible. I do wonder if, as suggested, some of the parts in the kit I received were muddled up, as they do come in different size kits. But, even if that is so, had the part been a soft rubber, it would still have worked. Oh well, might try filing the collar down until the run ring will pass over it, or go back to my old standby of a 3 or 4 swan shot link ledger, stopped by the old leger stop (small tapered plastic peg pushed into a wee sleeve) and a bead. Actually, that wouldn't work on even my wee river in the state of the rivers right now, needs a couple of ounces or more, but happy memories. Thanks again for all the helpful posts guys, appreciated.

You could try the Enterprise adjusta stops, they are what I use when fishing straight through to the hook when the John Roberts leger stop beads aren’t sufficient other than that it’s a swivel, rubber bead, and snap swivel for me.

 

[Ian Woods]

When i've legered i've always found the barbel just hook themselves against the line and rod tip, hence the rod bending round as they try to swim off.
I gave up on all the anti tangle rigs etc, all expence for nothing and just adds bulk to the line which will without doubt gets snagged easier.
As has already been said, a shot on the mainline below the weight and if for some reason a bolt set up is wanted then another shot behind the weight, or a rubber leger/float stop.
I always tied a small loop of weaker line onto my weight or feeder and then attatched the loop of line to a swivel clip so it would break off if snagged up.
I preferred to fish straight through also which means you can alter your hooklength simply by slackening off the shot and moving it down or up the line. I can't ever remember loosing a hook with that set up, plenty leads lost , but always got my hook back.

 

[Mike Hodgkiss]

Just read through this thread . Conclusion ? A lot of faffing about , knot tying and expense for a dubious gain

 

[Terry Simner]

Just read through this thread . Conclusion ? A lot of faffing about , knot tying and expense for a dubious gain

I totally agree Mike. For cautious carp then maybe*, but for barbel ...nah. And sleeves and booms? I can't remember the last time I had a tangle on casting out a barbel rig (not this decade anyway). I'd suggest any novice, or any seasoned angler that regularly get tangles on casting, uses the winter months to practise and perfect feathering down. That is, practise with a baited full rig.
*That video of the carp hooking itself before the gizmo had had chance to do its thing made me laugh. They really shot themselves in the foot with that bit of footage.

 

[Stuart Linton]

If this works effectively, I can't think of anything else on the market that I've seen that acts as a bolt rig aswell as turning into a safe free running system upon hooking a fish but also doesn't lose the lead. A clever idea that I will investigate if I felt the need to use a bolt rig.

 

[Alex Warren]

The only thing I changed was I use stiffer anti tangle sleeves

Which ones are you using their place, Richard? I don't actually use the Korum kits, but a similar in essence set up, albeit without the bolt option. Currently using the long Bank Tackle sleeves - but interested to know if you've found an option that is more rigid that those, as they're also quite soft, resulting in very occasional wraps round the lead or feeder where it hasn't 'kicked' it away enough.

 

[Alex Warren]

I'd suggest any novice, or any seasoned angler that regularly get tangles on casting, uses the winter months to practise and perfect feathering down. That is, practise with a baited full rig.

I get the occasional 'once round' the lead swivel or feeder stem. Always when fishing lighter baits - maggot, caster or very small pellets. I'm pretty sure this occurs on the retrieve, through more turbulent/eddying water. Would potentially be alleviated by a faster retrieve, but always try to avoid causing too much disturbance when winding in to recast.

Agree that feathering the cast is a must, but the occasional mishap is inevitable.

 

[Jon Young]

You could try the Enterprise adjusta stops, they are what I use when fishing straight through to the hook when the John Roberts leger stop beads aren’t sufficient other than that it’s a swivel, rubber bead, and snap swivel for me.

I think it was a pack of them I brought after someone on here possibly Terry was talking about them with the intention of fishing straight through eliminating weak points with extra knots at swivel and hook link loop and also being able to adjust the length of the hook link if needed. But when I decided to lengthen the hooklink the line was badly kinked where the stop had been and looked like it would definitely snap if I’d gotten a fish on. Never used them again

 

[Terry Simner]

I think it was a pack of them I brought after someone on here possibly Terry was talking about them with the intention of fishing straight through eliminating weak points with extra knots at swivel and hook link loop and also being able to adjust the length of the hook link if needed. But when I decided to lengthen the hooklink the line was badly kinked where the stop had been and looked like it would definitely snap if I’d gotten a fish on. Never used them again

Yeah, could have been me Jon. I've used them for ~20 years but I've never mounted them as Enterprise recommend. My line goes up the top end of the central bar, then straight down the other end (I don't thread my line around the bar). This was fine for ledgers up to say 14-42grms on the Teme, but if I needed more than 42grms+ (say, on the Middle Severn) I'd put a float stop directly below the Adjusta stop. I still use them on the Lower Severn and last week I was casting out 100grms+ using them, albeit with 2 float stops below the Adjusta stop. I like to easily adjust the length of my hooklink (i.e. the length of line below the ledger/feeder), I always use a hooklink weaker than my mainline, and when I have had to pull for a break, the break has always (IIRC) occurred in my hooklink.
N.b.. for safety sake, after landing say 3 or 4 barbel, or one or two bigger barbel, I'll move the Adjusta stop a metre up my mainline, remove a metre below it, then re-tie on my hooklink bead.