Haydn Clarke
Senior Member & Supporter
Will the bolt still work if you do that though or does it just become a running rig?
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Korda camo bolt and run rigs,
- Thread starter David Gauntlett
- Start date
Kevin Earley
Senior Member
Just becomes a run rig, but does have the advantage that it kicks the hooklink out better. On the middle Trent where I mainly fish the takes are anything but shy and the gravel and rocky nature of the river bed, makes me wary of clipping up in any fashion. I would hate to think of leaving a Barbel tethered to a lead / feeder jammed in between rocks.
Haydn Clarke
Senior Member & Supporter
Well I share your sentiments about clipping up and more often than not I just use simple running rigs like a John Robert’s link or such like. Surely though the whole point of this is to do what is says on the tin. Maybe it should be just called a Korda Camo Run Rig?
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Daniel Jeffery
Senior Member & Supporter
As someone else mentioned, perhaps there’s been a mix up in your packet. Korum make these in a large and small size and there’s quite a difference, see pic below. The run ring is a tight fit over the rib, but you’ll be surprised how often it’ll be loose post-fight.
They do work perfectly. If you want a running version Korum also sell those (Camo Running Rig Kit, see below).
Top: Korum Camo Bolt & Run Kit - Small
Middle: Korum Camo Bolt & Run Kit
Bottom: Korum Camo Running Rig Kit XL
Richard Bennett
Member
I think I may be in the minority when I say I don’t like these rig components. I bought a pack when they first came out and found the ‘rubber’ to be extremely hard, more like plastic, such that the run ring would not come loose even with substantial pressure from me when setting the rig up. In the end, I put them in the bin on the basis they were more of a fixed lead system and totally fish unfriendly IMO. Hopefully, I got one from a bad batch.
Graham Elliott
Senior Member & Supporter
What a faf.
Enterprise Snag free. Down to.
Rubber Tulip bead ( the ring over this on casting will kick the hooklink out from the lead/feeder,)
Size 8 swivel ( to tie your hooklink to or attachment swivel.)
About 45p.
Enterprise Snag free. Down to.
Rubber Tulip bead ( the ring over this on casting will kick the hooklink out from the lead/feeder,)
Size 8 swivel ( to tie your hooklink to or attachment swivel.)
About 45p.
Richard Isaacs
Senior Member & Supporter
A faff ….. It doesn’t get any less of a faff and it sounds like your tying two knotts graham to your size 8 swivel where as this system can be put together in 20 seconds and 1 knott
Push line through ring and bead, tie a knot to quick change swivel…….. hook length just loops over the swivel before you snug it all up.
Anyone that uses a rig where they are tying a knott at both ends of a swivel is going to be spending more time faffing than it takes me to throw this bolt and run kit together and I’d have money on that.
Graham Elliott
Senior Member & Supporter
Richard. So the hook link hasn't got a knot?
And a over £5 a shot. I'll make 8 rigs for that, taking less than ninute each.
And if my hooklinks are pre tied to a swivel, exactly as quick as yours.
And, I prefer a knot to a swivel, when I go through the swivel twice and safer imo, before tying than any loop tied system. And with a lead or feeder it's kicked out beautifully.
And a over £5 a shot. I'll make 8 rigs for that, taking less than ninute each.
And if my hooklinks are pre tied to a swivel, exactly as quick as yours.
And, I prefer a knot to a swivel, when I go through the swivel twice and safer imo, before tying than any loop tied system. And with a lead or feeder it's kicked out beautifully.
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Haydn Clarke
Senior Member & Supporter
I was wondering the same here. Apart from the fact that the running link fits over the bead (allegedly….. depending on who you listen too…..) then it seems very little difference from what I already use: a quick change running link buffered by a large swivel bead. Same amount of knots, same potential failure points in fact no difference whatsoever. Apart from, of course, Mr Fairbrass’ net worth increases by Foxtrot Alpha - which is to be considered a plus as far as I’m concerned.
I use a quick change swivel for convenience but also recognise that a securely tied swivel is more secure and every time a hook link is slid off from a QC swivel there is potential to damage the contact point of the line.
Richard Isaacs
Senior Member & Supporter
My Hook links are all pre tied they have a loop tied on the end and I tie them up by the dozen as and when.
As I don’t tie my hook links while setting the complete rig up then i wouldn’t include the time taken to tie that loop into the set up so no there is no 2nd knott to tie when setting up.
Your set up looks perfectly fine to me G but i consider yours more time consuming if we are being pedantic. I mean i wouldn’t really care about doing it either way but I was just correcting you on the fact that they are far from a faff. It’s as simple as what you demonstrate in your set up.
Yes more expensive granted but who cares really. You ain’t losing them frequently. 4 could easily last me a season. I’ll spend a dam sight more on broken floats and blunt hooks.
As I don’t tie my hook links while setting the complete rig up then i wouldn’t include the time taken to tie that loop into the set up so no there is no 2nd knott to tie when setting up.
Your set up looks perfectly fine to me G but i consider yours more time consuming if we are being pedantic. I mean i wouldn’t really care about doing it either way but I was just correcting you on the fact that they are far from a faff. It’s as simple as what you demonstrate in your set up.
Yes more expensive granted but who cares really. You ain’t losing them frequently. 4 could easily last me a season. I’ll spend a dam sight more on broken floats and blunt hooks.
Graham Elliott
Senior Member & Supporter
"Yes more expensive granted but who cares really. "
Judging by the rivers fished, there's a lot of Yorkshire folk on the site, Richard
Richard Isaacs
Senior Member & Supporter
I’m a Yorkshire man"Yes more expensive granted but who cares really. "
Judging by the rivers fished, there's a lot of Yorkshire folk on the site, Richard
There’s also the fact that you fish very rocky rivers. You probably go through more of them then I do making the cost savings more viable
Daniel Jeffery
Senior Member & Supporter
Blimey people do seem to be getting their knickers in a twist over this. No horse in this race but:
Obviously everyone has their preferences
£5 for a set 4 rigs so not really a fiver a shot.
What has any of this got to do with Danny Fairbrass? It’s a Korum product, not Korda. Last time I looked Korum was owned by Zebco, Korda independent.
Hmmmm….
Obviously everyone has their preferences
Kevin Steele
Senior Member & Supporter
I'm with you. I used one this week and had a few tangles, when the sleeves are supposed to be anti-tangle. I do use the ring that you attach the lead to (picture), but then use a Drennan Big Grippa Stop, rather than attaching my hook link to the swivel, as in Graham #28. This part of the Korum set-up can be bought in a pack on their own, Drennan do a similar thing that I just bought a packet of.
.
Richard Isaacs
Senior Member & Supporter
Must admit I don’t get tangles with them
I have changed the sleeves on mine for longer stiffer booms to kick it right out but the original has worked tangle free for me since i started using them.
Stupid question but you do feather your casts right?
Brendon Mullins
Senior Member
Have to agree with the comment about feeling plastic.
I got the equivalent Drennan kit a few weeks ago and they felt poor compared to some of the carp gear currently available
Kevin Steele
Senior Member & Supporter
Edit: I really should preface my posts with the fact that I'm a novice barbel fisher, so take me seriously at your peril.
I do feather my casts (with both float and when ledgering). No idea why I only started getting tangles with tubing. I'd use a twizzled boom for lines of 8lb and below, but for 12lb I stopped bothering and found I hardly ever tangle, so I just don't see the need for tubing.
(Just thinking... this might be because I attach my hook link well below the lead or feeder, so there are no hinges on the main line around the lead/feeder.)
Q. What did people do to prevent tangles before all this tubing came along? It's an 'old skool' question, because having not coarse fished for 40 years I couldn't believe how complicated it can be these days... if you let it.
.
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Bob Watson
Senior Member & Supporter
Neil Smart
Senior Member
We all use a variety of anti tangle gear which probably is overkill and influenced by the carp scene.
Used to be an Arsley bomb secured by two shot, never tangled with a underarm lob and feathered.
Never understood the need to cast like a beach caster when fishing a river.
Used to be an Arsley bomb secured by two shot, never tangled with a underarm lob and feathered.
Never understood the need to cast like a beach caster when fishing a river.
Richard Isaacs
Senior Member & Supporter
You’re absolutely right Kevin and I think the answer is people casted properly and had no choice.
I used to fish for chub with a paternoster rig which was a piece of line tied to my main line with a 4 turn water knot.
Shot on 1 end and hook on other. Nothing to stop tangles apart from decent cast technique