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Tench helicopter rigs

Ian Murfin

Ian Murfin

Senior Member & Supporter
Has anyone got a cheap option for heli-rigs for tench? Last season i just used a swivel direct to the mainline trapped between two Drennan big grippa stops which worked fine most of the time, but i did lose one nice fish which really bugged me. This season i'm thinking of going with something that has a tube or bead to protect the main line. I see that there are a few options on the market from Korum and the like but they seem pricey for what they are. Some seem to be single use which seems wasteful, plus you only get four or five in a packet.
 
I use a short length of tubing that has the two beads with a swivel ( large loop between beads) hooklink to hook tied to swivel small loop.


Mainline through the tubing, pushed to lead clip at end. Safe as well.

Cost about £1.20.
 
Graham Elliott said:
I use a short length of tubing that has the two beads with a swivel ( large loop between beads) hooklink to hook tied to swivel small loop.


Mainline through the tubing, pushed to lead clip at end. Safe as well.

Cost about £1.20.
Click to expand...
Sounds good Graham, do you know which brand?
 
I use individual rubber beads. If you cut the tubing in a point at the end and wet it you can push the beads on with swivel between.

Imo it's worth getting the swivels with one end loop bigger between beads.

I do also add rubber anti tangle bit over top of hooklink onto swivel to push the hook away from tubing a bit.

No float stops needed, the grip on the tubing is enough, yet can be adjusted I'd needs
 
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www.anglingdirect.co.uk

Matrix Hooklength Swivels

Key Features Ultra-durable design Anti-corrosion coating Finished edges to prevent line damage Rubber sleeve cap to allow easy hooklength removal Built in swivel to prevent line twist on retrieve Available in 4 sizes: 14, 16, 18 &amp20 7 per packet
www.anglingdirect.co.uk www.anglingdirect.co.uk
One of these, between 2 Guru line stops..
You can incorporate a feeder link in to clip.on your feeder.
 
Ian Murfin said:
Has anyone got a cheap option for heli-rigs for tench? Last season i just used a swivel direct to the mainline trapped between two Drennan big grippa stops which worked fine most of the time, but i did lose one nice fish which really bugged me. This season i'm thinking of going with something that has a tube or bead to protect the main line. I see that there are a few options on the market from Korum and the like but they seem pricey for what they are. Some seem to be single use which seems wasteful, plus you only get four or five in a packet.
Click to expand...
Hi Ian, I only fish for tench on the float so can’t comment on heli rigs but have had a look and read on the Tench fishers, web page out of curiosity, this may be of help to you?
IMG_4318.png
 
Jim Brook said:
Hi Ian, I only fish for tench on the float so can’t comment on heli rigs but have had a look and read on the Tench fishers, web page out of curiosity, this may be of help to you?View attachment 34314
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The Tenchfishers work on rig safety is really impressive.

I have bought some Hellerman tubing and am messing about with it. If you want a few lengths to try; send me a PM. You can have them FOC.

I don’t like swivels running directly on the mainline - so decades ago I used to put a swivel onto a centimetre long length of stiff rig tube and then burr both ends of the tube to hold the swivel in place. Similar ‘rig bits’ are now available (as tested by The Tenchfishers). Some work better than others.

Another way to do it is fish a length of sinking tubing above the feeder and mount the heli-swivel on the tube between 2 sliding beads (similar to the GE rig above).

Or forget a heli and fish a shortish rig below an inline feeder or lead. It works better in some scenarios. I tend to fish plastic baits this way round for various reasons.

If you need more info/variations read either ‘Redeye’ by Mick Cutler or ‘Tinca Tinca’ by The Tenchfishers - both brilliant books.
 
Thanks all, some great info there. I couldn't find the tenchfisher's article, you might need to be a member to get to that one. I did find a tenchfisher's youtube clip that demonstrates the Hellerman tubing option though. That looks good to me.
Thanks for the kind offer to send me some Hellerman to try Tim, I'll take you up on that one.

 
Ian Murfin said:
Thanks all, some great info there. I couldn't find the tenchfisher's article, you might need to be a member to get to that one. I did find a tenchfisher's youtube clip that demonstrates the Hellerman tubing option though. That looks good to me.
Thanks for the kind offer to send me some Hellerman to try Tim, I'll take you up on that one.

Click to expand...
Ian I don’t know how to send a link to the article, so I’ve taken some screenshots
IMG_4319.jpeg
IMG_4322.jpeg
 
Tim Marks said:
The Tenchfishers work on rig safety is really impressive.

I have bought some Hellerman tubing and am messing about with it. If you want a few lengths to try; send me a PM. You can have them FOC.

I don’t like swivels running directly on the mainline - so decades ago I used to put a swivel onto a centimetre long length of stiff rig tube and then burr both ends of the tube to hold the swivel in place. Similar ‘rig bits’ are now available (as tested by The Tenchfishers). Some work better than others.

Another way to do it is fish a length of sinking tubing above the feeder and mount the heli-swivel on the tube between 2 sliding beads (similar to the GE rig above).

Or forget a heli and fish a shortish rig below an inline feeder or lead. It works better in some scenarios. I tend to fish plastic baits this way round for various reasons.

If you need more info/variations read either ‘Redeye’ by Mick Cutler or ‘Tinca Tinca’ by The Tenchfishers - both brilliant books.
Click to expand...
Hi Tim, that’s a very kind offer I presume you meant for Ian? As I only fish close in with a float for tench as I mentioned in my earlier post, but Thanks all the same, there a some really good guys on here and you are one them! 😁 ✌🏻
 
On the silty waters I fish I use a similar set-up to the one in the tench fishers article posted by Jim also using the Korda no-trace naked chod beads but with the addition of a Korda Dark Matter helicopter / chod leader attached by a palomar knot, usually silt coloured which seems to blend in perfectly on the bottom.

I think these leaders are brilliant, amazing abrasion resistance but also less likely to cause scale/fin damage during the fight.

I had reservations about using the no-trace beads as on the bank they seem to come off too easily which made me worry about littering the water with plastic. In practice I lose very few indeed. The example shown is a little curly as it's been in my rucksack since last summer - but they straighten out within seconds after being submersed in hot water and stay they way.
20250318_095450.jpg


I generally replace the bottom bead supplied with the leaders with a rounder rubber bead which is mounted by piercing it sideways to existing hole. I find the rounder shape coupled with a big-eye swivel spins better through the air on the cast.

The leaders last for years, and have a quick change clip at the bottom meaning you can change feeders / leads in an instant.
20250318_095710.jpg
 
IMG_0097.JPG


Here's mine. A length of tungsten tubing, a buffer bead on the feeder end covering the swivel, A QC swivel and an ESP bead above the QC swivel. The ESP bead is just tight enough to hold the QC swivel where I want it, but loose enough to move if I get a break. Although the buffer bead is also loose on the tubing as well, so would let the hooklength go too.
 
Bank Tackle do a chod (or heli) safety system and a ‘naked’ version if you don’t feel the need to use a leader, which I usually don’t. They’re £3-odd, a bit more if you want the tungsten version. I haven’t seen the Korda bits other than in Joe’s photos, but these look exactly the same.
IMG_0819.png
If the bottom is good enough though, I agree that a heavy in-line feeder and short hooklink with the standard anti-tangle sleeve is the best hooker.
 
If no leader them korda line saver bead with a qc swivel on then a large bore bead pushed over the top. Gives a bolt effect but is 100% safe as the top bead comes off and up the mainline.
 
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