Rod Making in the 21^st century

By Roger McCourtney

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Part 1 Ring Tying

The handle having been fitted we can now tie on the rings of our choice that have been taped firmly to the blank. In addition to the actual rings it is a good idea to consider tying a hook keeper to the rod just above the handle. Most fly rods have them fitted, but why so few coarse rods have them remains a mystery to me. Many anglers when moving from swim to swim or whatever, will put their hook into the butt ring. If this is done, sooner or later the ring insert will either crack or get chipped resulting in having to get a new ring fitted.

If you have not learned to tie rings, now is the time. I suggest for the beginner that he practices on a piece of old rod or garden cane. Use string to practice with until you feel competent to attempt the real thing.

Tying by hand is a lot easier to actually perform than it is to describe the process in writing! I will have a go!

You will need a pair a sharp pointed scissors, a Stanley Knife blade and some 8-10lb mono. Cut about 10 inches of the mono and fold in half. Sit in a comfortable upright chair. An easy chair is not a bit of help.

I suggest that one starts on the butt section, being more rigid, it will help the learning process.

Assuming that one is right handed, hold the rod in the right hand and the spool of thread in the left hand. Trap the end of the thread under the right hand index finger; we are working from left to right. Take the thread over the top of the rod and trap the end that you are holding with that turn. You need to repeat this "starting" process for three turns. Now transfer the spool of thread to between your knees. This frees up both hands and makes it easy to keep good tension on the thread. You can now move the first turns with your left hand index finger nail to both push up, so that they are touching each other and also to straighten those turns.

Carry on by turning the rod. If you keep the thread so that it is coming off your spool nice and straight, the subsequent turns will lie alongside each other with little help from you. After you have made a couple of hundred rods, it will amaze everyone how quick you can do this!

When there is about 10 turns left to complete the tying, lay the mono on the wraps so that the loop of the fold is pointing to the right. Tie over the "loose" ends of the mono. Add the remainder of the wraps thereby wrapping over the piece of mono. Hold what you have just tied by pressing the thumb of your left hand down onto the rod. Now you can release the tension and cut the thread. Take the cut end and thread through the mono loop, take up the tension using your right hand. With the left hand slowly pull the mono through the wraps. This will pull the tying thread underneath the wraps thereby trapping the thread and of course preventing it from unraveling! Pull it all the way through and cut off the tag end with the knife blade. I use a fly fishers nipper tool for this. It is possible to use nail clippers, but because they have a curved blade, great care is needed or you might cut through the wraps as well as the tag end, not recommended!

That’s that then. Part two will be varnishing and final finishing.

Part 2 Varnishing

Although I have referred to this the last part of rod making, as varnishing, the process ought to be called "Sealing the Wraps". This is because nowadays blanks are finished at the factory, therefore needing no further finishing by the rod maker.

Many rod makers refer to the varnish used today as "epoxy". This is not strictly a true description of the various finishes available but it is one of those terms that has crept into the rod makers vocabulary. I prefer to call the stuff "rod finish".

As ever, there is number of different brands of "High Build rod Finish" to give them the correct title.

Most professionals seem to use "Flex Coat". I certainly do and have done for ten years or so. There are a number of other brands some I have tried, some not. I have used Gibbs Rod Wrap Finish and recommend it.

Seymo Quikpro is often suggested. I have no experience so cannot recommend personally. I have used "Hard and Fast" This product has a tendency to take on a milky bloom sometimes long after the rod has been finished. Therefore I would not recommend.

As this is the final stage of rod making any mistakes made now are costly. I hope that the following tips will help prevent the would be rod maker from making mistakes.

In addition to the finish, you will need a size 6 artist brush. Buy a good one. My favourite brand is Windsor & Newtons. A clue to look for when buying brushes is, look for lighter coloured bristles. Dark bristles are often cheap and nasty. A good brush will last for years, so invest wisely!

You will need some cellulose thinners for cleaning your brushes. Do I need to warn you about thinners? OK then. It plays havoc with skin. It destroys plastics. It will take the finish off your rod! It is harmful to breathe the vapour. Be warned

Beg borrow or steal a couple of china eggcups. These are for mixing the finish and for the thinners to clean the brushes.

You will need lots of kitchen roll. I use cocktail sticks for mixing and other things. And finally get a cardboard box, any size will do. You need to cut some "vee" grooves in both ends for the rod sections to sit into whilst the drying is taking place. The stronger the carton the better. If you intend to make a few rods I suggest that you make a wooden drying rack. The purpose of the carton is to enable the rod to be kept off the workbench. You will be required to turn the rod through 180 degrees every few minutes for at least two and a half hours, so do allow yourself plenty of time for the whole process. You cannot leave it once started! Tell "er indoors" to answer the phone, you are not in!

Again a good upright chair is preferred. You need a well-lit room that also needs to be warm.

If you intend to make rods regularly, make yourself a revolving rod drying rack. I have two. I do not know if these can be bought in this country. Certainly all the ones that I have seen have been hand made, mainly by Heath Robinson I suspect! The one I use the most runs off a microwave motor! These can be scrounged from any electrical repair shop for next to nothing. One of mine cost me a brace of trout! I cannot go into exactly how to make a drier here but if anyone wants to know they can contact me direct. My other one is much bigger. This machine was made for me by an engineer friend and will turn sections up to nearly 7feet long. This runs off an old washing machine motor! The whole thing cost me a new fly rod!

Making a start

During cold weather it pays to warm the finish. I place mine on an electric convector heater. You want it warm not hot. This really does help to ensure good mixing of the finish.

Take one eggcup and place this on something so that it leans towards you (?) The idea is to make sure that the mixing takes place in as small an area as possible. If the two components are mixed in a larger area there is a good chance that it will not mix well. It has to be well mixed. I cannot over emphasize this. All of the finishes have two packs, usually pack "A" and pack "B". get used to using these in the same order all the time. It is quite possible to forget which one you might have put in the cup! Especially if you get interrupted.

Drop into the cup 20 drops of pack "A". That really is plenty for now, any more and it will "go off" before you can use it! Now drop exactly 20 drops of pack "B" on top of the "A". With a cocktail stick, start stirring. Keep the mix in a tight area. Hence the tilted eggcup! Make absolutely sure the stuff is well mixed. It will take at least two minutes to achieve a perfect mix. When the streaks have gone from the mix, it is ready.

Start at the tyings on the top of the butt section. Have the butt supported on something so that you can keep the rod level whilst applying the finish. If the rod is not kept level the finish will migrate downward resulting in a great blob of finish right where you do not want it! Fill the brush and apply to the left-hand part of the tying. You now need to make a decision. Do you want to take the finish over the wraps creating a small bead of finish onto the blank, or do you just want the tyings covered? I always take the finish onto the blank; this completely encapsulates the tyings with no steps. This bead of finish need only be about 1mm. Make sure that the little "tunnel" between the ring and blank is filled, you might use a cocktail stick to push some finish into the gap. Put plenty of finish onto the wraps, it is not called "high build" for nothing! When you have finished all the tyings on the butt section. Keep turning the section. Now for a trick! Get a hair drier and blast the wet finish with hot air. Keep turning the rod. The heat from the drier will make the finish very runny; it will also blow out any bubbles that may be forming. Keep turning!

Put the section into the vee previously cut in the carton. Keep turning the rod! Turn through 180 degrees. This will need doing every few seconds to start with but gradually longer periods between turning will be needed. Keep your eye on it!

Do all the tyings including covering the writing on the butt. Keep turning! Do the tip section starting from the tip. Job done. Keep turning! Also keep the room warm for 24 hours. The finish will be touch dry then.

Clean the brush in thinners. Then run the brush under a hot tap and rub in plenty of washing up liquid. Rinse and set aside to dry. Do this every time and your brushes will last for years. Clean out the eggcups with thinners and wipe dry with the kitchen roll. Keep turning that rod!

Should the finish still be tacky after 24 hours you have not mixed the finish properly! It might also be that exactly equal parts of the two packs have not been mixed. I told you, mix well!

If this is the case, you will need to apply properly mixed finish over what you have already done. This will set it "off". If you get it right" Keep turning that rod!

Summary

To do complete justice to the subject of rod making would require a book to be written. I hope that what I have written will be of use to any would be rod maker.

If anyone would like me to impart any further information I will be happy to hear from individuals.

I said at the outset that anyone could make a rod. That is a fact! I run rod making classes during the winter months, have done so for quite a few years now, many of my class members thought that they couldn’t make a rod: they all have! So can you. Go for it. I am here to help.