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Tiny Boilies......

John Cook

Senior Member
Hi All,

Should we start the season on low clear water conditions plus blazing sun then i am going to try a couple of hair rigged tiny 8mm boilies plus a mesh bag of boilie crumb and a few 8 millers and maybe a few 2mm pellets. Will anyone be doing something similar???? Also any tips for a suitable hook and what size???
PM if prefered.:)

Be Lucky.
 
Thinking ahead John - like it! Sods law says it will **** it down for 2 weeks prior to the season opening - best laid plans and all that!

One question - a couple of 8mm boilies? Not exactly what i would describe as a 'tiny' bait! Single grain of Enterprise artificial hemp hair rigged to a size 16 Drennan Super Specialist is quite small - but i could do better. ;)
 
Andrew yes it will probably turn out that way:(

A single 8 miller thats a thought, maybe a better option..
 
I use 10 mm boilies for all of my summer fishing only stepping up to 12mm with a paste wrap in the winter. I was walking by the Loddon today - clear and low enough to watch barbel spawning. We need rain!

Steve
 
Steve,

We certainly do, i can just picture it come June:(
 
That 8 miller looks very small on the hair i know that i will be pestered by dace and chublets....
 
I use 10 mm boilies for all of my summer fishing only stepping up to 12mm with a paste wrap in the winter. I was walking by the Loddon today - clear and low enough to watch barbel spawning. We need rain!

Steve

Not Summer just yet . I bet we get some snow soon :)
 
Not sure why, but I was under the impression that smaller baits were more successful in winter, and larger in summer.....? Or is it the potentially clear conditions that suggest the use of smaller baits? Mind you, I did pretty well with two hair-rigged 10mm source boilies last season.
 
hi john,last season i had an 8/12 barbel from the dane on 2 8mm pellets and a raptor size 10 which is my fav hook for the dane.the water was very dirty looking if this is any use to you.
albert
 
I've found during low clear conditions over the last few summers that the most consistant sport with barbel has come while using a small hookbait that matches, for size at least, any freebies i might be offering.

If you're going to fish with an 8 mm boilie on the hook then i would feed 8mm boilies. My own preference is for a single 6mm elipse pellet fished over a bed of mainly hemp, with a few hookbaits mixed in. I use the 'mega' hemp which is roughly 6mm grain size, not the ridiculously expensive and pathetically small stuff you can buy in tins from the shop. ;) My line of thinking is that by presenting a bait that is similar to the freebies it is harder for the fish to pick out the hookbait. So many times i watch others presenting a 12mm pellet over hemp, or a 15mm boilie over micro pellets - they sit biteless all day, only starting to get indications as it gets dark. Some even convince themselves that the barbel will not feed during the day - it's that bad! In my opinion the main reason they aren't catching is because they are making the hook bait so obvious it is easy for the fish to pick out and avoid.

Perhaps more important than the bait is the way in which it is presented. In low clear conditions, and especially on stretches that recieve a fair amount of pressure, the barbel will be well aware of a badly presented bait. Being able to watch barbel feeding allows you to quickly learn what they will and will not put up with regarding tackle in the swim. For those of you who haven't had the pleasure - the scariest thing for a pressured barbel is the mainline entering the swim. It doesn't seem to matter what it is either, mono or braid, clear, camo or even red ( for my mate Jerry ;)). The point at which it rises from the river bed to the rod tip will be avoided like the plague by most barbel. This is why those fishing rods high in the air, again sit biteless during daylight hours. Using a simple running lead or feeder set up, bites can be encouraged during daylight hours by simply using a longer hooklink ( say 6'+ ) as all you are doing is trying to put the hookbait as far away from the point where the line rises from the bottom as possible. Keeping the rod tip low to the surface also helps to flatten the line down. I must say that i've found the long hooklink approach to be rather ineffective at converting pick ups to hooked fish. It does work, but all those little taps and plucks are often barbel getting away with picking up your bait and ejecting it when they realise all is not well. The solution, if the swim allows, is to go down the carp anglers route of short hooklinks, rig tubing and backleads. Definately not recomended in rocky, snaggy swims - but the more you can do to disguise your rig, the more you will catch. :)
 
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Question on Anchor rig tube. I appreciate it pins line down behind the lead but is it as simple as threading it on the mainline above the lead? Are any fixings required? Plus, won't tightening up cause it to lift off the bottom anyway? Cheers
 
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Lee - with regards to the tubing lifting firstly with your rod tip low and an appropriate sized back lead - it shouldn't lift. Secondly - don't tighten up! A taught line in the swim is far more spooky than a slack one. I appreciate the flow of the river will create some tension so the line won't be completely slack but tightening up, particularly to a heavy lead, is a bad thing. Remember we are talking here about low clear conditions. In such conditions, even on powerful rivers like the Ribble you can easily hold in most swims with less than an ounce of lead. With the river low the flow is dramatically reduced anyway which allows this kind of presentation to work.
With regards to actually using the tubing there are many variations that suit different situations. You might wish to fish it as a running lead set up, use a semi fixed in-line lead, a leadclip system that will eject the lead if snagged or an in-line drop off system. That's just 4 of many variations, and each of those has many permutations. It would take an epic post to go into them all and there's loads of information about rig set ups on carp forums. The one thing to stress here is that when looking at rigs and lead set ups designed for carp in stillwaters -try to consider how/if they would work in the river.
 
John,

If you're thinking in terms of the river we talked about...............

forget it. You'll get mugged by the crays.

Fish lots of maggots over hemp. Don't complicate things.

And find the fish first. ;)


Si
 
For the Loddon in low, clear daytime conditions i've had success fishing half a 10mm bait hair-rigged to a stonze size 16. Stonze hooks are very strong in the small sizes and have an eye large enough for a flouro knotless knot.

Definately something i will be trying again this coming season...

Steve
 
I'm convinced a moving bait works better in such conditions and as such I'll be give the float a go as well as rolling baits.
 
Some good info from Andrew there regarding fishing low clear conditions, yes as well as an appropriete size bait for the daylight hours hooklink disguise is also a key factor.
 
John I assume you have the Colne in mind here? If so then small baits have definitely accounted for most of my daytime fish on the river, I just think that when there is a relatively small head of barbel like in the Colne then it's tough to get them competing and abandon all caution and wolf down big baits - they are used to eating tiny morsels all day so a lump of meat, or huge boilie/pellet must just look odd when just anchored there unmoving in the current. They will know your small boilies are food and will surely look less suspicious and far more similar to the small items they are used to eating.
 
Hi Chris,

Yes the old Colne will be one of the rivers that i will be on next term, Yes i will be giving the 8 mil boilie hookbaits a go feeding some 8millers plus boilie crumb in mesh bags, it can be hard going on bigger baits on those sunny bright days and the low clear water conditions of summer.........Good luck Chris for the coming season, wont be long now:)
 
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