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Strett pegging magic

Jon Kennard

Jon Kennard

Senior Member
One of the things i love most about fishing is the vast way in which our support can be enjoyed and the different methods. Having bought my Ray Walton pin and matching rod I set about strett pegging in a small and intimate lake. I was like a child again taken back to my earliest fishing memories free lining a float for roach. If you've never tried it get out and do so its magical and so effective. The float showing any interest and twitches before sailing away. It would be all time catching river fish on it. I would imagine a back Eddie or slack on a flooded river would be very effective. Buzzing check that quill out
 
It can be used on both but not near a river so my only option. I believe you add more slack line when on a river making the distance to the float further. The stronger the current more you increase it. is be really interested to hear anyone that uses it on flowing water and has taken barbel etc. I read up about it in a good old John Wilson book.
 
Your technique sounds very much like "Laying On" John, which is very similar I understand, for fishing stillwaters overdepth with the bulk of shot quite close to the hook, which "Lays on" the bottom, the float could or may be not directly above the baited hook at all. Its a method I use for Tench, similar the "Lift " technique where the float actually rises and may even fall flat on the surface when a fish takes the bait and lifts the shot off the bottom.Whatever the method is called, if it works then it really doesnt matter whatever you want to call it.

TBH I havent a clue where the term "Stret Pegging " came from,anybody know ?

Dave
 
Here is a post from a few years ago.
Ta Graham H for reminding me.

I have managed a large number of barbel on the St Pats and Loddon over the years using the method I class as stret pegging. It is ideal to fish between streamer weed or deeper inside line drop offs.

Firstly you will need a powerful float rod / tench rod ideally 13ft to get max benefit. I would use 6-9lb line.

The most important aspect is the depth youset the float and you fish at. This should be set a nominal 9 inches to 1 foot overdepth. My choice of float would be at least a 5bb stick.
The float must be attached top/bottom.

Also, unusually, you should bulk most of the shot about 6 inches or slightly more from the hook.
AND have more shot on the line than the float can take...at least 2 bb.

The whole idea is to work the bait downstream, in stages, in line with your rod tip after casting out downstream just below level with where you are sitting.

You will find that the float will swing around (weed permitting) being tautish with your tip.
I would put the rod in the rod rest, and every now and again pull off a foot or so of line to work the swim, after a slight lift of the tip.

The whole idea is to get the hookbait moving with the currents flow, up, down and across, searching between the weed. You will find that the float will sometimes lay flat, as per the example you mentioned with MB. I would suggest he was just using the Quill as an indicater rather than true stret pegging.

You will find that the float will sometimes drag under, sometimes lay a bit flat etc.

BUt Bites will be like a typical barbel bite.....wham.


Most succesful for me was with using tares nicked on a size 12 hook and feeding hemp at my feet little and often. Of course maggots/casters etc. your choice.


Hope it all makes sense. Not unlike very light legering really.

Graham
 
Awesome thanks David and Graham I'll read that more later. I. checked jw's handbook and it was rivers he mentioned so I've gone off the chart with creativity. It totally it totally out fished everyone else in the lake.
 
I always thought that the float was set well over depth, I recall reading somewhere as much as a third of the depth of water, so 2ft overdepth in a six foot deep swim??
 
I'll picture John Wilson's page. Yes that's my understanding to. The more the flow the greater the depth is needed. He emphasises the need for a decent loop in the line otherwise it won't work correctly.
 
For my two-penorth ... I see laying-on as stret-pegging on non-flowing water, and (as GE says above), the degree of 'overdepthness' (!!) required is dependant on the flow. Or, more precisely, dependant on the pressure of the water exerted on the line between the bottom of the float and the bottom of the river. That pressure is mostly dependant on the flow, but depth of swim and diameter of line will also be influencing factors. It's always a matter of 'suck it and see' ... seeing what (amount of 'overdepthness'!) works best.
It IS an exciting method to use though!
 
Years ago the standard Kennet float fishing was "holding back"

This was also overdepth with the float but not releasing any line.

Stret pegging is only for flowing water IMO. As said, still water is "laying on" usually anchoring bait with a group of spaced shot or single big one to avoid drift. Can also involve overshotted float
 
Funny though how seeing it up as per running water it worked great. I set one swan shot 6 inches from the hook and set the float over depth so it laid flat on the surface and that's it si simple. I cannot compare a standard float set up side by side but I'm pretty convinced it was more effective and the bites were easy to hit and convert. I'm going to try it again as well as the lift method and will report back. I hope to try it on running water in the autumn.
 
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