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Shimano Line reducers

Lee Hadaway

Lee Hadaway

Senior Member & Supporter
Hi everyone, Wondering if someone can help on here as anyone to do with Shimano has zero idea or passes it on to someone else.

I have the 5500 mini big pits, I have 200m spools of 0.35mm fluorocarbon I want to load on these, What line reducer do I need for this to go straight on with no backing if possible? I just wanted to check so I dont mess it up, Get stressed and bin it all 🤦‍♂️🤣

Thank you in advance
 
I don't think you will find a specific line reducer.
Best too wind all your new line onto your spool , top it off with backing line , counting how many yards you use
Then load that onto your other spool.
Wind on said amount of backing on first spool and wind on your new 200m💪🏿
 
Just found this, That'll do me. Thanks though Jim
 

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Lee Hadaway said:
Hi everyone, Wondering if someone can help on here as anyone to do with Shimano has zero idea or passes it on to someone else.

I have the 5500 mini big pits, I have 200m spools of 0.35mm fluorocarbon I want to load on these, What line reducer do I need for this to go straight on with no backing if possible? I just wanted to check so I dont mess it up, Get stressed and bin it all 🤦‍♂️🤣

Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Would NOT reverse spool with any mainline other than braid but def not fluro as its springy enough already and all you'll be doing is adding more twist. Do you know the total capacity of your spools (its usually written on the spool edge - ie DIA (mm) vs Metres ?)

If there's a total Meterage capacity for 0.35mm already then that's a bonus - if not use your Omni Calculator to work out the equivalent and give you the TOTAL length of line to fill your spool for 0.35mm line. Lets say its 350M for arguments sake - simply buy some cheap backing line of the SAME diameter (eg Korda Basic 12lb which is 0.35) and you'll now know you need 150M (I'd go slightly over) as a backer.

Rich had a quick calc to accurately work out retrieve rate rotations (based on your specific reel) but lets say your reels retrieve 104cms per rotation. That's 144 rotations approx. Once backed you can either now tie on the new fluro and fill the spool or alternatively wrap it out (prior to doing this) on wrap sticks. Personally (as I have OCD) I'd retrieve 150 times from the backer and then wrap out the exact amount on wrap sticks (150M=164yards=41wraps) but its an extra process that you may or may not be bothered with. All depends on how important having the full 200M is on your spools correctly filled to just below the lip!
 
Chris Belcher said:
Would NOT reverse spool with any mainline other than braid but def not fluro as its springy enough already and all you'll be doing is adding more twist. Do you know the total capacity of your spools (its usually written on the spool edge - ie DIA (mm) vs Metres ?)

If there's a total Meterage capacity for 0.35mm already then that's a bonus - if not use your Omni Calculator to work out the equivalent and give you the TOTAL length of line to fill your spool for 0.35mm line. Lets say its 350M for arguments sake - simply buy some cheap backing line of the SAME diameter (eg Korda Basic 12lb which is 0.35) and you'll now know you need 150M (I'd go slightly over) as a backer.

Rich had a quick calc to accurately work out retrieve rate rotations (based on your specific reel) but lets say your reels retrieve 104cms per rotation. That's 144 rotations approx. Once backed you can either now tie on the new fluro and fill the spool or alternatively wrap it out (prior to doing this) on wrap sticks. Personally (as I have OCD) I'd retrieve 150 times from the backer and then wrap out the exact amount on wrap sticks (150M=164yards=41wraps) but its an extra process that you may or may not be bothered with. All depends on how important having the full 200M is on your spools correctly filled to just below the lip!
Click to expand...
Yeah ive never been a fan of winding onto one to go onto another, That just gives me line twist nightmares 🤣

I was just trying to save on backing them all for once as I have the reducers and have never used them. But the chart says I need 20 metres of backing on the 4500 reducer so that'll do me.

Thanks for the reply though 🤜🏻🤛🏻
 
For reels that don't offer line reducers I've opted to using a backing made up of 2mm / 1mm or 3mm versions of below. It's works for me as there is a little squashing of the foam tape but I can usually gage what I need, even if that's doubling up of the foam tape. You can trim to the size of the spool width as needed. I then end up with just spooling on 150 m of line for normal fishing, but should I need more extreme distances I'll put on 200 m.
 
Lee Hadaway said:
Hi everyone, Wondering if someone can help on here as anyone to do with Shimano has zero idea or passes it on to someone else.

I have the 5500 mini big pits, I have 200m spools of 0.35mm fluorocarbon I want to load on these, What line reducer do I need for this to go straight on with no backing if possible? I just wanted to check so I dont mess it up, Get stressed and bin it all 🤦‍♂️🤣

Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
 
Lee only yesterday I loaded a Shimano Medium Baitrunner LC 5500 XTB WITH 15lb (0.37mm) of Daiwa Sensor line. Firstly I put the bigger 3500 line reducers on the spool and wound on 150 turns (1.05m / turn) = approx 157.5m which took it up to what looks correct for me. The spools that came with the reel don’t have any line ratings on it but I’ve bought some of the slightly cheaper Shimano Ultegra 5500 XTD spare spools that are an exact fit and they have line ratings on them.
 
Barry Peck said:
I've turned Fluoro around before several times and never had a problem .
A decent modern line is no where near as springy in my opinion . And if it is springy soak it in warm water ...
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All fluro is springy . . .its even worse in the higher diameter variants IME. It also attracts dirt like a magnet and needs constant re-stretching / cleaning and general maintenance . . . I switched to PB Hybron (in 0.40) last season and it's different gravy - sinks faster than even heavy fluro but is still castable - has slightly more stretch than fluro but still way less than mono . . .for carping this all matters; however for barbel I'm not sure it makes any difference - does anyone use mainline fluro for barbel?
 
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