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loop to loop.

I was using loop to loop method these past few weeks as I had a few hook links tied with a loop ( figure of 8) , I fish the mainline straight through with a short piece of braid (around 4-5 inch ) at the end , feeder/ lead is stopped by a enterprise adjusta stop .
 
I tend to use a figure of 8 loop on the hooklink ( very strong) attached to the main line via a size 8 quick change swivel and sleeve. I dare say another well tied figure of 8 would also be good. I like a quick change arrangement for the hookink and lead as I often just use the one rod and attach a bait dropper after removing lead and hooklink.
Exactly how I do it.
Fig8 on hook length to snap tackle on main which is tied with a palomar
 
so how long/short would the actual hook link be? would a ready tied hook link of say 18ins looped to a mainline trace of 3feet cause any problems with snagging and does this presentation spook the quarry/fish.?
 
so how long/short would the actual hook link be? would a ready tied hook link of say 18ins looped to a mainline trace of 3feet cause any problems with snagging and does this presentation spook the quarry/fish.?
This is why I use an adjusta stop instead of a swivel , your hook link is whatever length you want it be and is easily adjustable, plus your not wasting expensive hook link material , with just a short length of braid , I usually use an allbright knot instead of loop to to loop but they both work equally as well .
Only downside to this is line twist , but most of the time I’m casting with an underarm lob ., and tackling down after every session . Plus I keep a close eye on line twist.
 
so how long/short would the actual hook link be? would a ready tied hook link of say 18ins looped to a mainline trace of 3feet cause any problems with snagging and does this presentation spook the quarry/fish.?
I use loop to loop for the majority of my fishing nowadays
I slide a float stop up the mainline - this can be used to create a kind of bolt rig if required or slid right up to catch weed etc
But will slide up and off if you have a mainline break
Then a sliding ledger bead
Then 3 more float stops - this takes the place of a buffer bead
Straight away you can having a running set up or semi bolt rig by moving the float stop
I then tie a twizzled boom with a figure of 8 loop tied off at the end
This boom should be slightly longer then the length of the feeder drop
The 3 float stops act as a boom and kick the twizzled boom off preventing tangles
Then add a hooklength loop to loop
I normally use 3’ ish but will shorten it if the fish are feeding / I’m missing bites
If they start to back off the feeder or move up in the water( more Chub) then by sliding the float stops I can increase the distance from hook to feeder infinitely
Can look a bit untidy but quick and effective and the fish are only interested in the last 3 inches near the hook
I did this last week and went to a 5–6’ hooklength but started catching chub on the drop after I’d had a few on the deck and they got a bit wiser
rarely tangles
Be careful using too dissimilar main and hooklength
E.g a 12lb swizzled boom mainline could snap a low diameter 6lb hooklength
If I get this either up the diameter of the hooklength or if it’s winter and I need fine tackle I insert a powergum loop to loop which acts as a shock absorber
 
I do exactly that. I have a fluorocarbon ‘boom’ of around 2-3ft with a small figure of 8 loop at the hook link end. Then I tie up a load of roughly 3” soft braid loop hook sections (have a look at the Korda ‘loops and booms’ rig). I can change the hook section in seconds, don’t waste loads of braid each time and the long fluoro section often lasts several sessions.
 
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