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Best hooks for rolling meat??

Drennan Boilie hooks were recommended to me a while back Terry. Micro barbed, wide gape and curved point. I only use them for rolling meat and they've been fine.
ATB Dave
 
Cheers Dave. I only ask as I lost 2 barbel last week when rolling...one within 5 secs of connecting, and the other, a big girl, after 4-5mins with her wallowing in front of me. Prior to those two I can't remember the last time I had a barbel throw a hook. I was using Korda long-shanks, for the very first time.
 
Partridge Barbel Hooks (long shank) in sizes 4 and 2 if you can still buy them?

Fortunately somebody gave me some freebies as few years back and as yet I've not needed to restock.
 
Seem to connect better with really big hooks with a straight shank Terry (size 2s).

I know you won't try it but it could make a difference....... barbed (albeit crushed)!
 
Mike Daniel said:
Seem to connect better with really big hooks with a straight shank Terry (size 2s).

I know you won't try it but it could make a difference....... barbed (albeit crushed)!
Click to expand...

I've actually been using 2's Mike, and with crushed barbs :) My 'problem' started when I went to long shank, in an attempt to get more lead wire onto the hook. Not sure if it was the long shank that caused 'problem', or if it was just 'one of those things'. I've ordered some Drennan Boilie Hooks and see how I go on with them.
N.B...I changed meat at the same time as changing hook, so there's another variable.
 
I tend to use plasticine so the long shank is not important to me. I pull the hook through the meat with a Korum pva baiting needle, turn it 90 deg and pull it back into the bait.The master of the art...RW uses the Drennans so that was good enough for yours truly. :)
Tight lines
Dave
 
Hooks types/makes, like any item of tackle, are all down to personal taste/experience. I would suggest that the hooks that instil in you the most confidence are the ones to use, whatever style they may be.

The perceived wisdom regarding inward curving/beaked points are that they do not *****/hook a fish quite so easily, but stay in better once hooked. The other point in their favour is that they do not blunt as easily on gravel, because of that shape. However, if you are burying the hook in the meat, that last point is mute (excuse the pun :D).

In my experience, those with the eye bent away from the point are another story. The method/knot which you use when tying that style hook to the link can be crucial. A grinner or blood knot (which are not influenced by the angle of the eye to the shank) can work, but if you use a 'whipped onto the shank' style knot, as in a knotless knot, then in my opinion the line should come out through the eye from the back of the hook, so that the natural angle of the line is straight, or in line with the shank. The other direction will give you a horrendous presentation, and the line is then bent tightly around the eye when under pressure, and that will cause many lines to fracture and snap.

Just my thoughts...I expect I will now be soundly verbally thrashed by those with differing opinions :D:D

Cheers, Dave.
 
I agree David...that's exactly why I stopped using knotless knots 4-5 years ago. Never 'admitted' that before as I wished to swerve the discussion :)
 
Terry , you swerve a discussion ? Never ! :D .With regard to the question , as long as the hooks are sharp and strong I don't think it matters , personally I would go for a micro barb version .
 
ESP T6 size 4 tied to Grand Max fluorocarbon with a Palomar knot. Hook link attached to main line via a kwik change swivel allowing the hook link to be pulled through the meat with a long baiting needle, burying the point of the hook in the meat. It works for me, has done for a number of years, but as David G says its a confidence thing, so I stick with it.
 
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