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Bank sticks help

P

Paul Clotworthy

Senior Member
After some new ones the ones am seeing in the tackle shops don’t look really good very thin don’t look strong at all am after 4 in total any recommendations
 
Paul Clotworthy said:
After some new ones the ones am seeing in the tackle shops don’t look really good very thin don’t look strong at all am after 4 in total any recommendations
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Have nash hooliguns,strong, light and auger points,but now discontinued!!! No help i know,but seriously annoying when they stop making decent gear😡
 
Slawek Slowinski said:
Have a look on dinsmore screw point
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Straight Spike in the floor every time unless it’s physically impossible then I’ll revert to a screw.
call me old fashioned but these new quick lock things on the extension part just annoy me now I’ve gone back to the good old fashioned locking screw. You know it’s tight and it ain’t backing off.
I made a bank stick that quite frankly puts any thing out there today to absolute shame.
6062 grade aluminum tube to a 304 stainless tip which was work hardened after machining. Internal pole was stainless also and locked with a hand screw. Threads were brass for anti sieze and brazed on rather than pins or rivets.
no manufacturer would go to the same efforts granted but if they did we’d all only ever buy one set.
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Richard Isaacs said:
Straight Spike in the floor every time unless it’s physically impossible then I’ll revert to a screw.
call me old fashioned but these new quick lock things on the extension part just annoy me now I’ve gone back to the good old fashioned locking screw. You know it’s tight and it ain’t backing off.
I made a bank stick that quite frankly puts any thing out there today to absolute shame.
6062 grade aluminum tube to a 304 stainless tip which was work hardened after machining. Internal pole was stainless also and locked with a hand screw. Threads were brass for anti sieze and brazed on rather than pins or rivets.
no manufacturer would go to the same efforts granted but if they did we’d all only ever buy one set.
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Put me down for .pair of those....
 
Richard Isaacs said:
Straight Spike in the floor every time unless it’s physically impossible then I’ll revert to a screw.
call me old fashioned but these new quick lock things on the extension part just annoy me now I’ve gone back to the good old fashioned locking screw. You know it’s tight and it ain’t backing off.
I made a bank stick that quite frankly puts any thing out there today to absolute shame.
6062 grade aluminum tube to a 304 stainless tip which was work hardened after machining. Internal pole was stainless also and locked with a hand screw. Threads were brass for anti sieze and brazed on rather than pins or rivets.
no manufacturer would go to the same efforts granted but if they did we’d all only ever buy one set.
View attachment 13551View attachment 13552View attachment 13553View attachment 13554View attachment 13555 View attachment 13556
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Great sticks , I got the screw in when the river was low and I can get them in below the stones, not used them in a while because I use Korum river pod .
 
Wayne Pevy said:
Are they quite heavy richard?
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Heavier than an all aluminum one yes but not something you really notice extra in a loaded quiver or holdall. I could make them lighter and use aluminum tips and an aluminum extension bar but I prefer the far extra durability offered with stainless steel.
 
How do you work harden stainless steel Richard? Genuine question, I could have become a metallurgist on a different life path.
I was only told about hammering as I recall.
Rolling perhaps?
 
Use the defiant MPS titanium banksticks, and when needing to raise the rod tips use his 36” titanium storm poles as bank sticks.
 
Paul Collins said:
How do you work harden stainless steel Richard? Genuine question, I could have become a metallurgist on a different life path.
I was only told about hammering as I recall.
Rolling perhaps?
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Austentic stainless steel can be “work” hardened so rubbed to the point that you generate enough heat to change the grain structure without actually cutting away at the material. I spun the point up in the lathe and applied friction with a very fine file. It will make the material very hard indeed. A good way to test the theory is to drill it with a blunt drill and press hard. You will generate lots of heat and work harden the stainless in that area. Now try and drill the same area with a sharp drill. Good luck. You’ll be wrecking a lot of drill bits it’s gone that hard. You can reinstate it back to normal softness by annealing. So heat to cherry red and allow to cool naturally.
Hammering and rolling will encourage work hardening on stainless as well but the rubbing i find gives the best results and you can polish up afterwards with no damage
 
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